Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-02-2015, 09:17 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 28,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
mechanical jack stands capable of handling my 20,0000 lb rear axle weight don't come cheap.
I'm trying to find some as our front and drive axles are rated for 20,000#'s and the tag for an add'l 14,000. Right now we're at probably 50,000 total and we're not fully loaded. I'd probably be OK with 4 12,000 stands on the rear and two on the front.
We only have air leveling and I need to replace the rear shocks and I'm not sure I want to trust just the air system for me to be under there. I'll have to take a good look at it tomorrow when I back it out.
__________________

__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-02-2015, 09:27 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,251
I use jack stands, my leveling jacks to raise it up, but also have a 12 ton bottle jack if needed. The other thing I've done is park one side up on a curb to leave room underneath or once I straddled a shallow ditch to leave room to work underneath. Not as good as a pit, but it works. The places to be careful are if you're working on the air lines and put hands up in tight spots. I like the jack stands to prevent surprises in those cases. I did my shocks and had no issues. Lowering the coach as low as it goes, the only spot that could be tight underneath would be at the side skirt and compartment areas. In the middle, between the frame rails you can almost sit up when on the stands.
__________________

__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2015, 08:23 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by slickest1 View Post
If the air started to go while under there I dont know if I could get out before it got too low for me not to get out.
You can't. Never get under a coach that is supported by the air bags or the leveling jacks. If you are working under there, and happen to nick/cut/damage or accidentally disconnect an air line or hydraulic line, the coach can come down fast. Your body will not support the weight of the coach!

You can use your leveling jacks to raise the coach to place quality jack stands with sufficient rating under the frame, or build cribbing under the frame. But before going under, retract the leveling jacks and deflate the air bags.

You can also build ramps under the wheels, as already described, but make sure to dump the air bags before getting under. If that makes it too low, you need taller ramps.

But any jack stand/cribbing/ramps needs to be very sturdy: a few old 2x4s won't cut it! Also, make sure the ground under the coach and supports is solid, you don't want the supports sinking into soft ground or working their way into gravel. And NEVER use concrete block (cinder blocks) as any part of the support structure, they can crumble far too easily.

Getting under an improperly supported car can kill you if it falls. But a motorhome is far heavier, making it more likely to fall, and making the consequences worse. And unlike a car, with it's spring suspension, both the air bags and hydraulic jacks are susceptible to sudden failure. The only saving grace is that if the motorhome falls on you, death is likely to be quick and you won't suffer long.
__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2015, 08:24 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
BennieH's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 211
Built my own ramps as well. 12" high, plenty of room to do what I need to do. Good price on the 12 ton stands, gonna put 2 sets in the budget. Can't be too safe and you don't get a mulligan.
__________________
2003 Monaco Camelot (New to us Dec 2014)
BennieH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2015, 08:32 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
palehorse89's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 7,751
Quote:
Originally Posted by DGBPokes View Post
Never have liked working under things, but have done it many times with cars and previous gasser motor homes. New to us is our 07 Kountry Star. 3912 DP.
I have yet to get under it. It is low when air is dumped and jacks are down. Do I work under it with air bags full and no jacks. The street in front of the house is sloped such that to level the rig the nose is down, the rear is up, and the starboard side, next to the curb is up.
I am not sure if I can even slide under the front.
The simplest thing to do is with the Coach's bags aired up at ride height, put big blocking of some kind(I have 12x12x12") under the jack pads, and then shim with smaller to make the blocking within 1" or so of the jack pads, now you can raise it a bit if needed and it can only lower to the ride height if the jacks fail, I can work under mine at the ride height. No jack stands needed, as the Coach's jacks can only go to the retracted position, which will still be at the ride height, and if the bags fail, it will still sit on the blocking at the ride height.
__________________
2000 Newmar MADP 4060, 350ISC, Spartan MM, IFS 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006Ultra & 1989 Springer
palehorse89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2015, 04:05 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: STETTLER
Posts: 288
I can tell you one thing that didn't work for me. I used a 5 ton hydraulic jack to raise the rear body under the hitch a couple of inches. Just as I was ready to slide under the self leveling did it's job and the back end of the MH squatted down-nearly destroying the jack. I will use solid wood ramps but be careful if the self levelling gets involved- even then it could defeat your best efforts.
__________________
2001 Peak Kodiak towed with 07 Dodge diesel, ML430, 3 dogs. 1 longtime wife(50 yrs)
POPPASMURF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2015, 04:22 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by POPPASMURF View Post
I can tell you one thing that didn't work for me. I used a 5 ton hydraulic jack to raise the rear body under the hitch a couple of inches. Just as I was ready to slide under the self leveling did it's job and the back end of the MH squatted down-nearly destroying the jack. I will use solid wood ramps but be careful if the self levelling gets involved- even then it could defeat your best efforts.
When you say, "self leveling" are you talking about ride height or your leveling jacks?? I don't really understand. Putting a jack under the hitch, in the center, at the very end of the rear body, furthest from the rear axle I'd expect you were trying to lift far more than 10,000 lbs. What's the rating for your rear axle?
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2015, 09:18 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by POPPASMURF View Post
Just as I was ready to slide under the self leveling did it's job and the back end of the MH squatted down-nearly destroying the jack.
I doubt self-leveling had anything to do with it. It's MUCH more likely that the seriously overloaded 5 ton jack simply failed under the weight. If you were jacking up the rear axle, your jack would be trying to lift double it's rated weight. Being back by the rear hitch, it was trying to lift even more weight. You were simply asking that poor jack to do way too much lifting!
__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2015, 10:56 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
cbeierl's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 2,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Car Nut View Post
IMPORTANT: Be aware that jack stands are rated in pairs--therefore each of the above jack stands can support 6 tons max.
__________________
Chris Beierl

2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
cbeierl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2015, 01:10 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: STETTLER
Posts: 288
Uh-if you read my post-I was jacking under the hitch. I was looking for about 2 to 3 inches more- and it WAS the self levelling-and yes it definitely overcome the capacity of the jack. I won't go under now unless I can place supports of rated capacity, no matter if using ramp or just quick skuttle under at rest.
__________________
2001 Peak Kodiak towed with 07 Dodge diesel, ML430, 3 dogs. 1 longtime wife(50 yrs)
POPPASMURF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2015, 02:04 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by POPPASMURF View Post
Uh-if you read my post-I was jacking under the hitch.
Yes, that was clear, and I don't see where anyone was questioning that?

Are you referring to my "If you were jacking under the axle" comment? If so, I was just using that to say it would've been bad enough to jack there, and worse because you were jacking under the hitch.

Quote:
and it WAS the self levelling
So far, nobody that has responded to you knows what "self leveling" is, so what is it?. Are you talking about the ride height control valves letting air out of the air bags because they think the back end of the coach is now too high? Did you have automatic air leveling enabled? Was it something to do with hydraulic leveling jacks? "Self leveling" is not a commonly used term for motorhomes and we don't understand exactly what you mean.

But either way, if there is a system that is trying to maintain level, and you artificially raise the back end, it should be no surprise that the system will react to try and lower the coach. This means that even if the suspension or leveling system was supporting the weight of the coach, as soon as you lift it too high, it will try to lower the coach, leaving you to support the full weight of the coach.

Quote:
I won't go under now unless I can place supports of rated capacity, no matter if using ramp or just quick skuttle under at rest.
Very wise. It's been stated before (even in this thread) that you should never get under the coach unless it is firmly held up by adequate supports, and you should never rely on any part of the air suspension or hydraulic leveling jacks to provide any support. You must be able to fit under the coach with the leveling jacks fully retracted, and the air bags completely dumped, because either of them can suddenly drop the coach on you at any time - don't trust your life to them because they were not designed as a robust safety system: they have too many single points of failure that can bring the coach crashing down on you.
__________________

__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
advice, diesel



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Diesel pusher overheating rimrock Class A Motorhome Discussions 101 11-03-2016 07:58 PM
2003 Mountain Aire Diesel Pusher Turn Signal Problem DDMA Newmar Owner's Forum 8 05-30-2014 07:28 PM
Covington Diesel pusher information Cummins610 Class A Motorhome Discussions 1 05-20-2014 12:33 AM
1994 Georgie boy Swinger diesel pusher Aeronaut Spartan Motorhome Chassis Forum 0 04-14-2014 12:44 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.