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Old 05-02-2015, 04:37 PM   #1
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Working under Diesel Pusher........advice

Never have liked working under things, but have done it many times with cars and previous gasser motor homes. New to us is our 07 Kountry Star. 3912 DP.
I have yet to get under it. It is low when air is dumped and jacks are down. Do I work under it with air bags full and no jacks. The street in front of the house is sloped such that to level the rig the nose is down, the rear is up, and the starboard side, next to the curb is up.
I am not sure if I can even slide under the front.
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:42 PM   #2
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Unless you are working on the levelers it doesn't need to be level to work on most other things. Lift all jacks the same amount and slide under. The only thing about level is when draining the engine oil you may leave a 1/2 quart in the pan. That won't hurt a bit.
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:48 PM   #3
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To be safe it would be best to place jack stands under frame.
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:53 PM   #4
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Get a couple of jack stands rated for the maximum load your rig would need, front or back, and crawl under. I use the jacks to raise the RV up, then slide a couple of jack stands under the frame and squirm around underneath with no worries.
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Old 05-02-2015, 05:30 PM   #5
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Mine is pretty level in the yard, just slightly nose down. I have no concerns working underneath to change oil in the engine (rear) or generator (front) and similar stuff with the hydraulic jacks only, but I would never mess with suspension or jacks without a mechanical jack stand under the frame. I think the coach hydraulics are more dependable than my inexpensive floor jack, and mechanical jack stands capable of handling my 20,0000 lb rear axle weight don't come cheap.

I also don't let humans or pets inside the coach while I'm underneath - a slight risk risk that the jack switch might get hit and I get squished.
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Old 05-02-2015, 05:40 PM   #6
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I can get under mine when the air is out of the suspension to do oil change and lube the zerks. Seems a tad tight at times but I don't worry about it falling on me. When I needed more space when I changed the air dryer filters I ran the rear tires up on stacked 2X10's. BTW I don't think that if it was aired up and something in the system failed that it would drop like a rock but some people are concerned about that potential and being trapped or crushed.
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Old 05-02-2015, 05:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
20,0000 lb rear axle weight don't come cheap.
I bet they don't.

To the OP, seriously, be very careful. You don't get a do over, usually. Get jack stands rated individually for the axle weight, drive up on blocks, build and use cribbing. A pit is the best way, but who can afford those? There are also four post jacks…..

Some things I have done, like my air dryer. It's an easy service but almost inaccessible but for a pit.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:08 PM   #8
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Make your own jack stands. Build yourself some ramps, to raise up your front or the rear. And they won't break either, very safe. Use a 2 hand truck for moveing to avoid a hernia.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:02 PM   #9
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Make your own jack stands. Build yourself some ramps, to raise up your front or the rear.
C'mon. You're implying everyone has a metal shop, raw materials, and the equipment it takes to do heavy duty metal fabrication? Seriously?
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:10 PM   #10
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Get some 2 x 12's & make your own short ramps. Drive onto them & do what you need to do.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:34 PM   #11
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Get some 2 x 12's & make your own short ramps. Drive onto them & do what you need to do.
That is what I did. I found some "pre-owned" 2X8's, cut them to 4', 3', and 2' lengths, stacked them and nailed them together to make step-ramps. That raises the rear of my MH 5", when the air bags are dumped my MH sits about 8" high, the total is about a foot clearance for me to slide under for working. That's enough room for working, but my belly gets in the way sometimes.
I also chock the other end wheels, I don't tempt Mr. Murphy.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:55 PM   #12
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That is what I did. I found some "pre-owned" 2X8's, cut them to 4', 3', and 2' lengths, stacked them and nailed them together to make step-ramps. That raises the rear of my MH 5", when the air bags are dumped my MH sits about 8" high, the total is about a foot clearance for me to slide under for working. That's enough room for working, but my belly gets in the way sometimes.
I also chock the other end wheels, I don't tempt Mr. Murphy.
Same here. Drill two holes completely thru the side and string a short rope to use like a suitcase handle when carrying. Perfect for oil changes.
Always support Both dual tires on each side.

Search the forum for pictures and ideas.

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Old 05-02-2015, 08:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Mine is pretty level in the yard, just slightly nose down. I have no concerns working underneath to change oil in the engine (rear) or generator (front) and similar stuff with the hydraulic jacks only, but I would never mess with suspension or jacks without a mechanical jack stand under the frame. I think the coach hydraulics are more dependable than my inexpensive floor jack, and mechanical jack stands capable of handling my 20,0000 lb rear axle weight don't come cheap.

I also don't let humans or pets inside the coach while I'm underneath - a slight risk risk that the jack switch might get hit and I get squished.
Not all that bad Amazon.com: Torin T41202 12 Ton Jack Stands (Sold in Pairs): Automotive
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:02 PM   #14
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Ramps are a good idea, and fairly reasonable as well. If the air started to go while under there I dont know if I could get out before it got too low for me not to get out.
Don't chance it.
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