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Old 04-12-2016, 04:31 PM   #15
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Why would jacking up a MH overload the front tires ?

If you pick up the rear with the levelers do the front tires get overloaded ?

The tow truck was carrying the heavy load, it didn't shift to the front tires.

The hitch is secured to the frame rails. The same rails the rear suspension is attached to.

If nothing is bent, shifted or cracked it will be fine.
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:38 PM   #16
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It seems to me that having the rear as high as it was shifted weight forward and would indeed overload the front axle, which is probably close to maxed out even under normal circumstances.
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Why would jacking up a MH overload the front tires ?

If you pick up the rear with the levelers do the front tires get overloaded ?

The tow truck was carrying the heavy load, it didn't shift to the front tires.

The hitch is secured to the frame rails. The same rails the rear suspension is attached to.

If nothing is bent, shifted or cracked it will be fine.
Lifting the entire rear of the coach from about 15' further aft than the rear axle most certainly transfers a LOT of weight onto the front axle.

When the rear leveling jacks pick up the rear of my coach, the front leveling jacks are picking up the front. Additionally, the jacks are very close to the axles.
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:56 PM   #18
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Running at 60 mph thru a dip in the road, bottoming out the suspension, will put more stress on on the axles and tires then that tow.

When they build them, all of that is taken into consideration.
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:03 PM   #19
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There are times that require a rear tow

Not on my watch!! If not towable from the front it needs a lowboy!
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:13 PM   #20
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Not on my watch!! If not towable from the front it needs a lowboy!
Totally agree. Sounds like the driver was too lazy to disconnect the drive shaft.

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Old 04-12-2016, 05:23 PM   #21
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Running at 60 mph thru a dip in the road, bottoming out the suspension, will put more stress on on the axles and tires then that tow.

When they build them, all of that is taken into consideration.

When they build them, they write a manual and give it to the new owner. They even call it an "Owner's Manual" to clear up any confusion. If you haven't read yours, you should. Mine says front axel cradel lift (and remove the drive shaft and rock guard) or flatbed. No other option is listed. And yes, a slight knowledge of physics will tell you the front axel is probably not aired up, or it is grosley overloaded, or both, but either of which is bad. HOWEVER, the dp owner is responsible for not supervising the operation with the knowledge from the owner's manual to back him up. If the tow truck driver insists on towing like this, say adios pendejo. Find someone who will do it right, and be ready, willing and able to pay for it to be done right. Much cheaper in the long run, but to know right, you gotta read the book.
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:29 PM   #22
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There are times that require a rear tow

I think this is Johns wrecker in this photo(Poster)...........he owned and operated a towing business, maybe still does?
Maybe he can enlighten us from his years of experience and hands on experiences he had throughout his years of towing and recovery.
The air line for the Coach that needs hooked up, while most are in the front, I have also seen some with one in the rear also.
Sure looks like this Coach is aired up.....
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:33 PM   #23
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There are times that require a rear tow

You are absolutely right, when you intend to junk the motorhome. If you want to use the motorhome again, get a lowboy. I see in the picture above the LOSD wheel is broken and the tire is flat. You can have a new wheel put on, which is required if you want to use the motorhome again anyway, and tow correctly from the front. Maybe the axel is damaged, it looks like it took some serious force, so lowboy it, even if you have to replace the wheel to winch it aboard. But the LISD wheel is probably ok, I'd winch it like it is.
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:55 PM   #24
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You weren't home and the DW wanted to suprise you. The deed is done.

Not letting it happen is not a valid answer now.

The inspection came back clean.

What would you do ?
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:27 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Gadget Man View Post
UPDATE:

My buddy called to tell me that he had his rig inspected this morning by a trusted mechanic. Luckily, he suffered no damage. When I asked him to explain in more detail how his rig was towed, he said the driver lifted the coach by the hitch receiver, but the rear of the coach was supported by the bottom of the entire hitch assembly when it was towed, which is a little better than how he initially explained it. Although I disagree, his mechanic had no issues with the way it was towed for the five miles. His mechanic admitted that dropping the driveshaft and towing from the front is a better method, he said almost no one marks the driveshaft mount, so reinstallation often results in an unbalanced driveshaft. This brings up a good point - you can't trust a tow truck driver to mark the driveshaft for you, so this is something an owner should do in advance with a paint pen. I did this a while back on not only my driveshaft, but on other bolts that require periodic inspection and/or re-torquing.

Craig

Isn't the drive shaft balanced as a separate unit? Or is it connected to the rear axle then balanced?


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Old 04-12-2016, 08:01 PM   #26
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Drive shafts are balanced as a unit.

The problem comes when the tow guy pulls the spline apart without marking it.

He should pull both U joints and leave the spline together but that takes more effort.

Now the shop guy needs to put it back in right.

I'm not sure why its such a problem, you just need to line it up end for end. It seems like its just not done correctly.

Google some driveshaft phasing, U Tube videos and see what can go wrong.
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:13 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Drive shafts are balanced as a unit.

The problem comes when the tow guy pulls the spline apart without marking it.

He should pull both U joints and leave the spline together but that takes more effort.

Now the shop guy needs to put it back in right.

I'm not sure why its such a problem, you just need to line it up end for end. It seems like its just not done correctly.

Google some driveshaft phasing, U Tube videos and see what can go wrong.
When ours was towed (see post #2) the driver removed both ends of the drive shaft, marked the correct orientation and kept the caps in their original orientation and in their original place. He even put it back in the rig and made sure Cummins knew it wasn't torqued correctly. It's too bad the Cummins shop screwed up so much else!
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Man View Post
UPDATE:

My buddy called to tell me that he had his rig inspected this morning by a trusted mechanic. Luckily, he suffered no damage. When I asked him to explain in more detail how his rig was towed, he said the driver lifted the coach by the hitch receiver, but the rear of the coach was supported by the bottom of the entire hitch assembly when it was towed, which is a little better than how he initially explained it. Although I disagree, his mechanic had no issues with the way it was towed for the five miles. His mechanic admitted that dropping the driveshaft and towing from the front is a better method, he said almost no one marks the driveshaft mount, so reinstallation often results in an unbalanced driveshaft. This brings up a good point - you can't trust a tow truck driver to mark the driveshaft for you, so this is something an owner should do in advance with a paint pen. I did this a while back on not only my driveshaft, but on other bolts that require periodic inspection and/or re-torquing.

Craig
As suggested...

Contact the manufacturer.

The mechanic is certainly NOT a structural engineer so he is in no way qualified to pass any judgment to conditions other than as indicated...Do not see anything broken or cracked.

Stresses on any other part of the unit should be identified by the manufacturer then inspected by a vendor certified to do so.

If in any kind of warranty position via manufacturer or insurance be certian they confirm policy still valid and ZERO exclusions.

There may be nothing wrong but a chunk of ice sunk the unsinkable ship...





Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
You weren't home and the DW wanted to suprise you. The deed is done.

Not letting it happen is not a valid answer now.

The inspection came back clean.

What would you do ?
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