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09-08-2012, 10:35 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
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I hate my generator.
Im a complete newb at RV'ing. I've spent over 3000 dollars just to get things running again, and I've gone nowhere in it except to drive it home.
When I first got the RV it had sat 1 1/2 years in an enclosed storage unit. You can imagine the fuel went bad and ruined the genset carb., not to mention the fuel pump in the gas tank I had to replace. I bought an OEM carb and replaced the old one on the genset. Started right up and ran fine. It has sat in my driveway for a week or so since. Today we were goning to go to my wifes mom ( ) and spend the day, so I tried running the generator. It ran for 2 min. - maybe - then just died. I tiried starting it again and it ran for 3 seconds or so and died, and never restarted. I took the carb off and dumped the fuel out. It looked yellow. I cranked the fuel pump to the generator and it pumped yellow fule for a few seconds and then pumped clear. Not sure what this means. I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner as best I could. I hooked all back up and it rand for 3 seconds or so again and died. It just keeps doing this.
The fuel tank has fresh fuel in it and the RV ran fine from Houston to Louisiana on that fuel and was the same fuel running the carb when it died. I had previously purged the fule line to the genset prior to installing the new carb.
Im not sure why the fuel was yellow. Could it be I have a bad deteriorated or gummed up fuel line to the carb. If so this will just keep happening wont it?
Anybody have an idea?
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09-08-2012, 10:49 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,499
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Keep at it. i assume the fuel filiter was replaced.
You might want to add a little gum out to your fuel tank during the next couple fill-ups. I think you'll need to run (exercise) the genny more often (with 1/2 load) until you are comfortable that it will start every time - maybe for 20 min to 1/2 hour every day.
Then after a week or so, I'd replace the fuel ffilter again.
__________________
Tom and Amy from Northern Virginia.
2000 Allegro 454/Workhorse P32/TST/Crossfire
Life is a DIY project, so own less and live more
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09-08-2012, 10:53 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
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Ya.. seems like the new gas is dissolving old varnish in the tanks and fuel lines.. takes a bit to clean them out.
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09-08-2012, 10:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 379
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I must assume that you have checked the oil. Many generators will shut down when/if the oil level drops to a particular level below full.
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09-08-2012, 12:35 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
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FYI its an Onan and first three model numbers are 4KY.
I tried again to check the fault code and it came up 32. which meands cranking speed less than 180 rpm for more than 2 second.
this confuses me, because it cranks and starts for 3 second or so
I didn't check he fuel filter, but I pulled the line off the carb and fuel shoots out when the pump is on.
One thing I cant figure out is where the fuel pump is. Its not listed in the operating manual.
Assuming its a gummed up carb, I just bought the carb, so what should I do?
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09-08-2012, 01:02 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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Fouled plugs?
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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09-08-2012, 01:33 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
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I don't think it's fouled plugs because it was running fine and just stopped. I'm not sure what the best way to clean the carb is. I've already tried shooting it full of carb cleaner. There are not many holes to shoot the carb cleaner into. Plus it's a brand new carb and only a week or so old. I couldn't have varnished up yet. Not to say sediments further back did do it.
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09-08-2012, 01:34 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSchleder
I must assume that you have checked the oil. Many generators will shut down when/if the oil level drops to a particular level below full.
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Oil level is fine.
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09-08-2012, 01:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pawtucket, Rhode Island
Posts: 225
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A fiend of mine had the same problem it turned out to be a circuit board inside the gen set compartment. Cost 300.00
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09-08-2012, 01:46 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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And a friend of mine.. Worn brushes caused that very same fault code.
If the fuel is yellow, it may be that the new gas-a-hol has dislloved the varnish (Alcohol will do that) and gummed up your new carb as well..
Frankly.. Code 32 really means "SNAFU" or' "I done failed to make 120vac" take your pick.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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09-08-2012, 01:48 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by last_lemming
I'm not sure what the best way to clean the carb is.
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Take it off and boil it in water, or soak it in cleaner/solvent.
__________________
96 Prevost Liberty XL40'-Past MHs: 02 Monaco45'Sig,00Monaco43'Sig,99Monaco42'Exec,98Mona co42'Sig,98Newmar38'DSDP(pictured),88FW26'Jamboree .
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09-10-2012, 05:15 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
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lonestarace,
Interesting- Have you ever done this?
I have a carb on a "weed eater" that has sealed air mixture plugs on the internal carb body (3 of 'em). I guess these are there to facilitate the drilling operations necessary for proper operation. I have finally resorted to buying, and installing, a new carb and the machine now runs fine. The only way it would run before was to constantly adjust the air mixture screws (Hi and Low speed). I've put a new rebuild kit, including a diaphgram, into it and had the same poor results- always adjusting the air mixtures to keep it running. The new carb runs fine, which tells me the air mixture tiny holes, and channels, are partially blocked. The unit is about 4 summer seasons old, with heayy usage during the season. I certainly could tear the original carb apart one more time and "cook" that sucker to dissolve old varnish ( I guess that's what I would be doing).
In this case of "Last_L" I doubt that is his problem with a new carb unit.
Here is a recent post I made on my generator problem- sputtering, and a resultant generator gas filter change. Maybe it'll help him.
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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09-10-2012, 05:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
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there is a arm that is attached to the carb it goes to the speed control the rod is connected at the front of carb and runs into the case if that rod is off it cannot detect speed and will shut down see if that rod is connected some Gennie have access on the top it has 4 bolts holding it in place the and the control is there the arm just snaps in very easy to come off when moved around like when removing carb
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
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09-11-2012, 07:03 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
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Here is what I don't understand. The gen was running fine. So all the adjustments must have been right. Then all of a sudden. It just quit. No sputtering or stumbling, just quit. So to me either debris in the fuel has lodged in there good. Or something mechanical electrical has broke. I'm leaning towards the latter because when I spayed the thing out with carb cleaner it was shooting out from all the really small orafaces. I have an appointment next wed with a Onan tech. I'm sure my pockets will hurt when it is done.
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