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Old 05-06-2015, 04:26 PM   #1
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Leveling Blocks

So we are new to a class B, but not new to motorhomes. I bought a package of leveling blocks, but got to thinking about this: With dual back wheels, if I need to raise the back end two 'levels', it will take 12 blocks - 3 per wheel. But the blocks come in packages of 10! This seems remarkably ineffective.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #2
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Buy some 2 x 8 lumber (or 2x6) and make a few additional blocks/ramps.
Cut the ends at a 45 deg angle to make it easier to roll onto.

No matter what you do, you will need an oddball assortment of heights.

I dont' know what kind of leveling block you have now, but hopefully the 1 3/4" high wood is taller so maybe one wood block = two store bought blocks.

Dan
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:44 PM   #3
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Would something like this work for you?


NEW 30" Lift Leveling Scissor Stabilizer Jack Kit 5000lb
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:31 PM   #4
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With three of these you will be able to handle most leveling situations.
https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...r-leveler.aspx
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Wong View Post
Would something like this work for you?


NEW 30" Lift Leveling Scissor Stabilizer Jack Kit 5000lb
Mercedes gets pretty update about leveling it using the frame. They REALLY want you to level with the wheels and blocks. So I'll figure it out that way.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:12 PM   #6
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Buy a couple sets of the plastic lego-type blocks. They are really compact, yet sturdy, and light. An extra set on board is no big deal. And you have the option of various heights. Always level using blocks under the tires. Scissor jacks would be pretty fiddly and perhaps dangerous.
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:34 PM   #7
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I always make my own blocks from 2X10 material. I usually measure the area where you can store them and make the total length a little less than that. 1/2 of that is the length for the second block. I only carry 2 of these plus 2 extra block of the 1/2 size and that's always got me level. I use a 1/4 round router but to run over the edges and that helps so splinters don't easily develop on the edges. I never cut a 45 on the front edge as the tire easily climbs the 1 1/2". I see lots of people make the mistake of putting the loose block on top and can't get up it.....always slide the loose block under the built/stacked ramp. Also not only do I screw the top block on I cover with White glue and parked on top of them while drying. This step always helps when a block dries out or cracks but they will still stay together.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSprinter View Post
So we are new to a class B, but not new to motorhomes. I bought a package of leveling blocks, but got to thinking about this: With dual back wheels, if I need to raise the back end two 'levels', it will take 12 blocks - 3 per wheel. But the blocks come in packages of 10! This seems remarkably ineffective.



Thoughts?

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Old 09-25-2015, 08:53 AM   #9
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Mercedes gets pretty update about leveling it using the frame. They REALLY want you to level with the wheels and blocks. So I'll figure it out that way.
My experience has been that "usually" my front end is lower than the rear.
So I have never had a reason to put blocks under the rear tires.

BUT IF I DID, one option would be to turn the rig around so the front end is lower. Might not work 100% of the time, but you are right, too many blocks for the rear wheels.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:26 PM   #10
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I use plastic leveling blocks with my class A and have had good luck!!

KC
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:34 PM   #11
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I built jack pads using 3/4" marine grade plywood. Laminated 3 layers together. They are 12" x 12" but could be any size required.

I prefer plywood over the plastic blocks.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:31 AM   #12
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I have the same type of rig.
Xplorer 236 19' 1998
Like the "lego" system
Have two sets. They store well and can be used in so many configs.
(Front and back tires)

Travel safe
=Jim=
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