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Old 02-20-2010, 03:32 PM   #1
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Air Dryer Filter Change today...Did I do it right?

Hey guys. I've read many threads on here describing the need to change the air dryer filter on the brake system. I have a 2000 Journey on a Freightliner chassis. The air dryer was very easy to access behind the rear axel on the drivers side. Last week I bought the air dryer filter from my local Freightliner center ($108) and today I installed it.

It was almost too simple. All the threads I've read on here made me dread this whole week doing this service. It was so easy, I'm wondering if I did it correct. I simply uncrewed the old filter by hand and then screwed on the new filter. I've read some threads describing a 2nd filter inside the unit but I never saw it. I asked the guy at Freightliner and he said that black filter that screws on is the only thing I needed to change. I thought there was a second (desiccant) filter. Is it possible there isn't one on my chassis? I couldn't see down in the unit once I removed the filter but I felt down inside it. There seem to be some plastic piece that spills around freely but I didn't try to pull it out.

Any help is appreciated as always. Did I only do half the job today or is it complete? Is the desiccant filter sold seprately?

Thanks guys.

I just found this picture in another thread. I changed the black filter in his right hand today. Is the thing in the guys left hand the 2nd filter I am supposed to change? In this thread, the guy stated Cummings said this second filter is only on 2007 and newer models. Is this correct or do I have this small filter as well on my coach? Does anyone know the exact name for it or part #? How is that small filter removed from the unit?

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Lee & Ginger Downey
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2000 Winnebago Journey 36G
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:58 PM   #2
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On the 2000 chassis, You probably have the Haldex (Midland) Pure Air Plus. That uses a kit DQ6026 that has the large dessicant canister, the coalescing filter, a pressure relief valve with a new cover, and a packet of silicon grease for the canister seal and "O"rings. The small tan filter is held in place by the "O"ring on it's base.
The coalescing filter is normally changed with the big filter but I would sure check with Haldex or Freightliner at Gaffney before going into the air dryer again. Your local dealer should have given you the full kit.
Hope this helps..

Hooligan, Pensacola, Fl -U.S. Coast Guard Retired
2016 Thor Siesta Sprinter 24ST diesel
Our Pug "Lily" & "George" the Newfoundland
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:13 PM   #3
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Yeah, I didn't get the full kit that's for sure. They told me I only needed the black filter canister. I may give the guys at Gaffney a call next week and see what they say. Is the small canister held in place with o-rings hard to remove? I wonder if I can just purchase that as a seprate item.

Thank you for your information.
Lee & Ginger Downey
Advance, NC
2000 Winnebago Journey 36G
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:15 PM   #4
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I agree with Hooligan. He and I have the same chassis and air dryer. The first time that I did it, I got the whole kit and replaced everything that it contained. That can be a bit more difficult as you have to loosen the dryer assembly and turn it to access the exhaust valve. The cover for the intake heater was also a bear to replace. The second time that I did it, Freightliner only sold me the spin on and coelessing filters. This last time, I got the whole kit again but only put the two filters in.

One time, I had to clean out the area under the coelesssing filter. There was moisture and build up. I had lint free rags and used them. This last time, there was no moisture there. I've never had moisture in my tank valves. I believe that is because I change the filters regularly. I'd rather do it too often than not enough. It is just my paranoia with anything concerning brakes.
2000 Georgie Boy Landau 36' DP
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:14 PM   #5
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UPDATE>>> Ordered the Coalescent Filter today from Freightliner here in Charlotte. Part #DQ-6032 for $32. Sure wish I had bought the kit you guys are talking about. That was part # DQ-6026 for $127. I would have gotten everything. Oh well. Lesson learned. My new coalescent filter will be in Wednesday. I sure am glad the air dryer is easy to get to and remove. I'll pop the new coalescent filter in this weekend.

Thanks guys for the advice.
Lee & Ginger Downey
Advance, NC
2000 Winnebago Journey 36G
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:23 AM   #6
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I just had my Journey serviced at Findley Rv in las vegas they replaced the filter dryer part #dq6026 charged $182.06 for the part plus labor. I didn't know about
the need to change it before, or what the price should be, thanks to this thread
I will know next time.
2003 Journey DL
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:13 AM   #7
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I changed the air dryer on my 2001 Winnebago Journey. I purchased this mh when it had 20,000 miles on it and I was not sure the air dryer had ever been changed. So I began by reading up on this forum and others. I raised the mh on three 2x10 boards, about six inches, and looked the situation over. The dryer is located on the driver-side frame rail just behind the differential. I found two suggestions: first, loosen the bolts, turn the dryer and change the filter; second, remove the dryer and change the filter on the workbench. One thing is for sure: the engineers who designed this system with a filter than needs to be changed often do not get any of my marks for good design. On this model, there’s not enough room with the dryer unit in place to replace the filter without making some kind of adjustment. This dryer has three hoses connected to it: the high pressure hose from the compressor, the plastic discharge hose, and a small hose on the opposite side. There is one set of wires with an easy disconnect junction. The unit’s mounting plate is attached to the frame with four bolts.
Deciding to remove the dryer from the unit, the first issue was the high pressure hose from the compressor. This wire mesh encased hose connects to the dryer with a union. Well, of course, the union would not turn—I could loosen the hose from the fitting, but the union would not turn. I sure did not want to turn the hose too much and break the inner plastic lining. The manufacturer does not leave much shoulder to grip the inner part of the union, and it was stuck tight. After liberal use of penetrating oil and finding a way to grip the inner part of the union (wrenches kept rounding the corners so I ended up using a small pipe wrench), it finally loosened and unscrewed. That was the longest part of the process. Once that was done, the remaining hoses and wiring came apart quickly. The four mounting bolts were easy to get off. I expected the unit to be heavy because some writers suggested using a hydraulic jack to lift it, but I found the unit to be light; in fact, it seemed that the filter was the heaviest part of the unit. Lifting the unit down, carrying it to the workbench , and changing the filters was the easiest part of the whole process.
Reinstalling the dryer went rapidly. One side of this dryer actually rests on a frame member, so lifting the dryer and sitting it on the frame was rather simple. Once sitting on the frame, installing the mounting bolts, reconnecting the hoses, and reconnecting the wiring went smoothly. Having accomplished this task once, I expect the next change to go more smoothly.
After this filter change, I have more information to add to a growing opinion that some of these engineers need to go back to school; or better yet, they should have to maintain some of the grotesque equipment they build. I’m not an engineer, but one does not have to be an engineer to recognize shoddy work when he sees it.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:53 AM   #8
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Do you suggest thee engineers mount the air connections with quick connect ones in place of the union type?
Make a simpler filter to replace? Mount it at a different place?

To save you all that work to complain about. You could have taken it to a shop. And they probably would have done it for you for around $500 or less.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:52 AM   #9
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On my 2004 the air connections are the quick disconnect. Still not real easy but better than screw in fittings.
Bob, Sandi & Marmaduke the Big Pug
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:26 AM   #10
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Do not forget to purge all air pressure before performng any work!
Mark & Shana Miller
2008 Tuscany 4072 DP
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:27 AM   #11
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Just serviced mine on our 1998 Overland (Freightliner chassis - Turbo 2000). 96,700 miles.
Spun off old filter / spun on new filter (strap wrench required).
Replaced the pump governor and 1/4" air hose (having rapid blow-off issue). 2 allen head bolts and it was off/on.
Cost me a whole $91 for the parts ($58.99 for the filter - $16.99 for governor).
Air pressure back to normal and blow-off issue resolved.
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Mike and Carla
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