Cruise control won't disengage

[mel s]

Originally Posted by lwidgill

New member great forum
I have a 2011 Itasca Meridian 34 ft on a Freightliner XCS Chassis. My problem is that my cruise control will not disengage when I step on the brake pedal, I must switch it off with the main control. If anybody has some suggestions on how to fix this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks lwidgill

Originally Posted by lwidgill

Update: I have an appointment with Freightliner in a weeks time to look into the problem.
In the mean time I had to move the coach in the storage lot and my spotter noticed I had no brake lights, I have both signal & 4 way flashers. Tried new fuses for the stoplights didn't fix the problem Does anybody have anything I could try in order to at least get brake lights so I can drive to the dealership?

lwidgill
Once your brake lights are working when you apply your service brakes your cruise control will most likely turn off as well.
A bad, (or out of adjustment), brake light switch or a "blown" brake light fuse can cause the symptoms you describe.

BTW it sounds like a $100+ repair at a Freigtliner shop, (OR a $15 max DIY repair).
Good luck.

Mel
'96 Safari

[Skip426]

If you replaced the fuse and still had no lights, then your going to have to access the switches and test for power to them and through them with the brakes applied. then examine the wiring to the firewall and to the turn signal switch, at the base of the steering column.

Every air brake system I've worked on had 2 brake light switches, air pressure activated; one in the front brake air circuit, a second in the rear.

[lwidgill]

I have an update to my cruise/brake light problem.

Dropped the motorhome off at a freightliner dealership yesterday. Received a call from them, they said so far after around 2 hours they are unable to find the problem.

They said they will have to contact Winnebago and get the wiring diagrams from them before they can go further. They also told me that my problem was not caused by recall FL634 which was completed April 2013.

At $160.00 per hour I have a feeling this is going to get quite expensive. Stay tuned I will keep you posted.

[jimbo2013]

THis does not take two hours,

if they run diagnostics it will tell them in a minute what's going on they can see on off & set.

there are two 4 pin connectors from the switch behind the dash which goes to the little logic box, they can be checked also.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by lwidgill

At $160.00 per hour I have a feeling this is going to get quite expensive. Stay tuned I will keep you posted.

Originally Posted by jimbo2013

THis does not take two hours,
if they run diagnostics it will tell them in a minute what's going on

jimbo2013
I disagree, (however I will say it should not take 2 hours).
Apparently you never had a "real professional" work on your coach, (I have)!
Here are only 2 examples of professional, (aka: creative), billing:

1.) It took Mac Allister Cat, in Indianapolis, 5 hours, (at $120 an hour), to diagnose 2 "bad sensors" on my 3126 Cat engine..(total bill $1,025).

2.) Detroit Diesel, in Bloomington MN, (an "authorized" Allison shop), took 26 hours to diagnose and replace 15' of "bad 14 gauge wire", (from my battery to my Allison VIM)....total bill $2,400.00!

If the shop wants to rip you off, or if the tech doesn't know what he's doing, (aka: is learning on the job), you have no choice but to "pay through the nose".
You are at their mercy, (and they can be merciless and brutal), especially if/when problems occur while you're traveling).

Mel
'96 Safari, 132k miles

[lwidgill]

Picked up the Motorhome from FL dealer cruise works and brake lights work.

I was getting frustrated with the length of time and the FL dealer saying it was a Winnebago problem and Winnebago say it was a Freightliner problem, so I called the FL hotline and spoke to a senior technician he in turn called the dealership and made suggestions as to how to fix the problem. Turned out it was a corroded connector on the air operated brake light switch. This was suggested by a few people in this thread, not sure why it took my dealership so long to find it. I do have to give credit to the tech I spoke to at Freightliner for taking ownership of the problem and fixing it.Thank You.

I also would like to thank all that replied to this post your suggestions where very helpful.

I am happy to say I now consider this problem resolved.

[Skip426]

Thanks for posting that your fixed .
My cruise problem was no-op when raining or wet roads, and corrosion was the issue there too. I cleaned up the area and coated everything in a non-conductive grease, 3 years and no repeat issues. But I can't believe they hang those switches, and wiring, in a spot that's so exposed to the elements.

[lwidgill]

Thanks Skip for the post do you know if there is a spray type grease that would help protect the connection on the switch as it is very tough to get at all the connections for this old guy. Also I forgot to mention the cruise control problem was covered on Freightliner warranty the bonus light was definitely on.

[Skip426]

My switches were easy access with the gen set slid out.
I'll look into spray grease.


EDIT: Super Lube; Silicone Dielectric Grease 400 gram spray can.
I'll see if Auto-Zone , or NAPA carries it.

http://www.super-lube.com/silicone-d...se-ezp-52.html

Napa, has their own in a spray can. P/N; LIT 979463
They carry Super Lube in a squeeze tube . P/N; NCB 91003

[lwidgill]

Thanks for the feed back I will check out NAPA there is one nearby

[Bad Bolt]

I have the same problem with only the brake lights not working along with the cruise control and horn.

I took my coach to my local Freightliner in Cleveland and they guy said I have two brake switches and they both check out.

Can anyone say as to why my computer sees my brakes as being applied, yet my switches check out?

Also, can anyone point me to where I can inspect the switches.

I have a 99 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 37' pusher. My genny does not slide out.

[Skip426]

[QUOTE=Bad Bolt;2193461]I have the same problem with only the brake lights not working along with the cruise control and horn.
Can anyone say as to why my computer sees my brakes as being applied, yet my switches check out?
Also, can anyone point me to where I can inspect the switches.
QUOTE]

My problem was , cruise would cut out as soon as the roads were wet.
Corrosion between the terminals, when wet , was passing , micro volts and the ECM would shut the cruise down.
I'll be servicing my coach today and take a picture , to show you what to look for.
Questions ; Did the shop only test the brake light switches, and not the turn signal switch, and column wiring ?

[Skip426]

Bad Bolt; Here are pictures of the brake light switches, taken from two angles past the steering shaft.
A few things to keep in mind , another member ; Dartbone 8 I believe; replaced his switches to cure his problem , post was a few months back , I'll see if I can link you to it. Part price was very reasonable; $12 or so.
There is another thread where , a member has an issue with the pedal not fully returning and keeping the brake lights on, because of the pedal weight, but that's a newer coach with adjustable pedals.
The switches, are only under pressure when the brakes are applied, so no need to drain the tanks if you have to remove them.
I took these pictures from below, to give you the best idea of location on your coach, mine are definitely easier access with the gen set out.

[Bad Bolt]

Thanks, Skip!

I am in the coach this weekend and will take my own pics, as well...