Community Forums

Cougarkid · 06-07-2012, 08:24 AM

So, the other week I decided to check out my brakes.

1998 Overland Larado 42' DP w/ 8.1L Cummins, 6-speed Alison Tranny, Freightliner Chassis w/ air brakes.

A few weeks before we were coming back from a weekend trip, pulling our Camry on a car hauler. Went to do a semi-quick stop at a major intersection when the light turned. I STOOD on the brakes and we rolled about 10' into the intersection. No contact (delayed light) and backed up to clear the intersection.

Coach is equipped with jake break and the previous owner "loved" to use it. I figured out, after reading posts here, that my brakes could be glazed. So, time to dig in and check them out.

RV is on leveling jacks on concrete. Used a 12-ton bottle jack to raise right front tire, removed tire, pulled drum, and sanded glaze off of drum and shoes. Drum looked good and lots of pad left on the shoes. Checked adjuster travel and greased all zerts on that side. Polished aluminum rim
(2 hrs) and replaced tire. Torqued the lugs (borrowed wrench) and one side done.

Repeated process on the left side, but found a set nut on the brake adjuster rod was loose. Tightened it down and had to adjust the travel a bit (per manual). Greased all the zerts, polished the rim, replaced tire and torqued.

Took it out over Memorial Day weekend and the brakes are a lot better than before. We were towing the Camry on a dolly this time. Made a few test quick stops and they gripped well.

No cost to me, except my time and the cost of a can of "Mothers" rim polish.

Now to find the time to do the rears (and those dual tires).

Mike

mccsix · 06-07-2012, 10:00 AM

I am impressed at jacking, removing/installing the wheels & lug nuts!!!

f1100turbo · 06-07-2012, 10:05 AM

Great job!
Only thing I would recommend would be to have the rear drums turned and trued when off.
They tend to "hot spot" and no amount of sand paper scuffing will help that! Again jmo

450Donn · 06-07-2012, 10:10 AM

Check internet for the reason for glazed brakes. IMHO it comes down to driving style. I think it is timf for new brakes all around. Turn the drums at the same time. Then evaluate your braking style.

mccsix · 06-07-2012, 11:28 AM

Drums or rotors???

f1100turbo · 06-07-2012, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mccsix

Drums or rotors???

Should have drums.
Even if it was rotors id do the same.

Cougarkid · 06-07-2012, 11:59 AM

Drums all around.

Compaired drums to pictures in the service manual. There are no hot spots are heat stress cracks. From what I could see, the only issue was light glazing.

As I said, PO used the exhaust brake ALL THE TIME.

Mr_D · 06-07-2012, 12:14 PM

According to Freightliner they way to take the glaze off is to find as deserted strip[ of road, take the unit up to 45 or so and stand on the brakes (just short of lockup or activating the ABS). Do this about 10 times and the brakes will be fine. This will as adjust the slack adjusters.
Did it on our 2000 DSDP and it worked fine. Have never needed it on our presents 2002 DSDP/Spartan.

Dave1956 · 06-07-2012, 01:36 PM

Any ideas on what would be average brake life? My Newmar has about 68k and I am the second owner. I do not have any records indicating that the brakes have ever been serviced. I was thinking about having the brakes done now since I am not aware of any problems.

Does 68k sound reasonable?

Thanks,

Dave

Gary RVRoamer · 06-07-2012, 03:17 PM

Most motorhomes never need new brake shoes/pads. They just don't get driven hard enough or far enough to wear them out. At 68k you probably don't even have noticeable wear. You are probably good for 150k-200k miles.

Cougarkid · 06-08-2012, 08:42 AM

I had read about the "hard brake" method of de-glazing. That is an issue when you live in your rv full-time with all your "stuff" inside.

A 45mph hard brake will make everything shift. The dishes/glasses in the cabinets don't appreciate banging into each other. I know in an emergency stop, or forbid, an accident, things will get broken. Don't wnat to break stuff just because.

Apparently my remove, check, sand and replace method works, too. Also gives me the oppertunity to inspect the drums, shoes and mechanisms. I wouldn't have found the loose nut without taking the wheels off. Not to mention making it easier to polish up the rims.

Skip426 · 06-08-2012, 01:14 PM

Don't forget to re-torque the wheels; very important with alloys. Do the rears at least 3 times if you have them off. Check with the wheel manufacturer, on torque amount and re-torque requirement.

Hooligan · 06-08-2012, 06:28 PM

Mike: Sounds like you are doing it right...
The burnishing brakes is most effective for getting rid of squealing brakes or to "Bed in" new brakes. If the brakes are badly glazed, the burnishing (hard stop) may not work but again, it may -and so- might be worth a try. Procedure is here: RV Tech Library - Burnishing Squeeling Brakes

Only the final brake applications are fairly firm and even then I try to save the dishes and avoid emptying the overhead cabinets....
I also use the PAC Brake but try to remember to occasionally use the service brakes firmly on an off ramp to clean the shoes and clunk the slack adjusters.

Hope this helps..

stink · 06-11-2012, 06:17 PM

Works on big rigs, a cup of cleanser (dry) layed at the bottom of the drum between the shoes, then do a few quick stops. This will solve noisy chattering and glazed brakes for a time but---- a glazed shoe has been overheated and will always glaze as the adhesive holding the lining material together (not to the shoe) has been overheated and liquified. this adhesive will migrate to the surface of the shoe and glaze again. In a previose life I had made linings for trucks, tractors and bands for cranes, all with glazing problem!!!!