Greasing the chassis

[powerboatr]

WOW
i did the m1 grease program today and by the amount of grease i put in the steering bell crank and the slip yoke on the driveshaft. The chassis must not have been greased very well pre-delivery or at build
I only have 7800 miles on the rolling stock

but the bright side is I am all good until the oil change

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerboatr I did the m1 grease program today and by the amount of grease i put in the steering bell crank and the slip yoke on the driveshaft. The chassis must not have been greased very well pre-delivery or at build

powerboatr, I have found that some fittings feed into endless pits like a slip joint. I gave up on trying to fill the joint and only pump in perhaps a half dozen to 8 pumps and then I quit! The bell crank on your rig is probably similar.

[powerboatr]

the bellcrank i just kept putting it in and finally got good goo all the way around and both ends.
the slip joint WOW, talk about an abyss
it was more difficult doing the rear end than the front, i had to squeeze my svelt frame in a tight spot

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerboatr it was more difficult doing the rear end than the front, i had to squeeze my svelt frame in a tight spot

I hear that! ... and I feel your pain! I cheat a little I try to get the machine up on its jacks a bit. Still have to watch all the time not to get into a pinch situation. Kinda hard when your bringing in a spare tire.

[powerboatr]

i don't want to say how high the unit was on its jacks, but my front wheels would turn real easy so i could grease the steering linkage joints

[Elkhartjim]

Be advised...some of that gease you pumped into the slip joint will end up on your toad the first trip or two. It (the grease) was described to me as being "pooped" out as the shaft moves in and out.

[J Walker]

Because some zerks take so much grease on my DP I use an air powered grease gun from Harbor Freight. I can't imagine hand pumping the grease in. Also, the Harbor Freight gun frees up one hand and I can hold the hose on the zerk if necessary. My slip joint seems to take a lot of grease but it may be that there is some resistance there and the flow of grease is slow.

[FleetMan]

I have a heck of a time blocking the rear vent hole on the rear drive shaft section so grease will be be forced out the front along the splines. I either need a third hand or a lot more strength in my finger tip to force the grease the other direction. Has anyone come up with an easy solution for this problem.

For additional clerance, I made six ramps from 2x12's, stacked four high (6" high). Heavy and bulky to position but worth the effort for the additional maneuvering room it provides to me.

[Pigman]

A couple of hints on the driveline slip joint. If you have the rig up on jack stands or other supports, the joint is opened up due to the axle dropping down. This means a lot of grease in, and as soon as you drop it to ride attitude, a lot of that grease will be pushed out. Try to squeeze under with the air bags inflated to normal ride height. STILL USE JACKSTANDS in case you lose air, but don't raise the frame.

A second idea is to use a trigger type manual grease gun instead of a lever action one. One hand for the grease gun and one for the vent hole.

Also, don't forget to use both zirks for each universal. Even if you've got grease from all 4 cups with one zirk, a squirt or two into the other zirk will keep the grease passages clear for a possible future need. Finally, don't use excessive grease in the outer brake tube fittings. Extra grease goes to the brake end and will melt on to the brake shoes on your first hot stop. 3-4 squirts is MAX.

John

[Chuck 1935]

Another idea for the slip joint is to undo the threaded collar and pump some grease in then screw the collar back on. I also stuff some wadded up paper towel up against the bleed hole of the slip yoke. It contains any grease that squirts out and prevents grease from spaying all around and getting all over the chassis.

[powerboatr]

pigman and chuck
great advice, the brake tubes were greased just that way 3-4 and done,

the slip joint was just off level so i will double check it when i drop her back down to ride height and see if she goes squish

i tried to undo the slip joint cap but it was to tight and i couldn't get a good hand positioning to free it up

[leedowney]

Advice on the lube guns...I bought a Kobalt air lube gun this past weekend at lowes for $30. Plan on using for first time as soon as the snow melts from the driveway. I also bought the flex hose adapter to get in those tight, hard to reach spots for $5. I read on other threads the best pressure to set is around 90 psi. He said that will do a good job at pushing the old, contaminated grease out.

I still haven't decided on the grease to use. Many on here say the Mobile 1 synthetic grease ($8 per tube) and others say to use the Valvoline Multi Purpose grease ($4 per tube). Since I will be lubing the beast every 5k miles, I'm still undecided which will be best for all points of lube. Any thoughts? What do you use?