Community Forums

RichnSue · 10-08-2019, 09:26 AM

New to us 2008 XC chassis and not knowing when the air dryer cartridge was last replace. I decided to try the replacement myself and must say super easy 15 minute job

Purchased the DQ6050 online for $69, came with new O ring and four bolts

My chassis bags loose all air after three days, bled off the brake tanks by pumping the brake pedal several times, this got all the air out of the system.

I know about pulling the tank lanyards but hesitate not knowing if the valves will reseal. Leaving that one for another day

Removed the four bolts holding down the cartridge cannister, pushed down on the cartridge rotated about a 1/4 turn and removed it. Cleaned up the cannister inside, replaced the O ring with new, put in the new cartridge, snugged down the four bolts. Final torqued down to 35 LBS.

Interesting was the new cartridge weighed 4.2# the one pulled out weighed 6.4#

RichKimball · 10-08-2019, 01:39 PM

Most excellent. I haven't pulled my lanyards either for fear of re-seat. Would you mind disclosing the source for such a good price?

RichnSue · 10-08-2019, 01:44 PM

Not at all, it was Van Horn Trucking out of Rochester MI. https://vanhorntruckparts.com/purest...70-dq6050.html

I see it is now $80 online. I had bought in late spring, took this long to get my nerve up to do the job!

96 Wideglide · 10-08-2019, 01:45 PM

I wouldn't put off draining the tanks! Especially since you don't know the last time the dryer was serviced.
You may have a lot of water in your wet tank, just rusting it from the inside out!

RichnSue · 10-08-2019, 02:10 PM

96 Wideglide you are so right. One more short 400 mile trip before winterizing, I'll pull the cords then, thanks for the "nudge"

imnprsd · 11-20-2019, 06:09 PM

So if my 15+ year old air tanks are rusting from the inside out, what can be done to clean the tank or is this "overkill?"

How long will these air tanks last? (In the south vs. in the desert, if environmental factors make a difference?)

Does the air dryer catch all this rust?

Pandion · 11-23-2019, 08:49 AM

Digging through the records that came with my coach, I found that the dryer hadn't been serviced since it was replaced almost 10 years ago! (Probably replaced because it hadn't been serviced in the previous 10.) Not only did I order and replace the filter, I ordered and replaced every other replaceable part on the parts list. I've linked to my manual, but Haldex is a good resource for all of their manuals.

https://www.haldex.com/globalassets/...ine/l31170.pdf

This pdf was also helpful, especially in identification of the dryer.
https://www.fcocrv.org/wp-content/up...aintenance.pdf

imnprsd · 11-24-2019, 12:56 AM

Richnsue: Can you elaborate on how you pumped the air out of your tanks?

I once pulled my lanyards and barely got one lanyard-valve to re-seat.

My coach is 2004 vintage with 100,000 miles. It's been a El Paso/Dallas coach for most of it's life. And I think I want to replace the Haldex-Purex #DQ6050 this coming season. TBD

I also wonder if it's going to be a 15-minute job or a 2 hour job? ...because my Haldex looks like a potential problem. I have a 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD (Freightliner Custom Chassis). And it's very dirty in that area too!

I am very mechanically inclined, but I hesitate due to possible problems. So if you or other members can elaborate on how NOT to pull those lanyards I would appreciate it.

Secondly, can anyone tell us how much the old descant/element would weight if it was 100% saturated with moisture?

Here's a video I found that makes it look simple... if you have room to remove the four 15mm bolts?

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9sT...XZX_Hg&index=1

twinboat · 11-24-2019, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imnprsd

So if my 15+ year old air tanks are rusting from the inside out, what can be done to clean the tank or is this "overkill?"

How long will these air tanks last? (In the south vs. in the desert, if environmental factors make a difference?)

Does the air dryer catch all this rust?

Your tanks will probably last at least another 15 years. Environment isn't a factor, air dryer function controls the moisture in the tanks.

The air dryer is the first first stop after the compressor. The tanks come after it so it won't catch any rust.

Tank drains are small and cheap, pull the lanyards and if they leak replace them.

Pandion · 11-24-2019, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imnprsd

I also wonder if it's going to be a 15-minute job or a 2 hour job? ...because my Haldex looks like a potential problem. I have a 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD (Freightliner Custom Chassis). And it's very dirty in that area too!

Mine took over two hours, but I took the whole dryer apart and replaced all the valves, seals, etc in the lower housing. I also remove all the fitting and reinstalled with new thread sealant and had an issue with an air system fill valve that was plumbed into the line from the compressor. Definitely pull the whole unit and work on it in a clean area, and if it hasn't been serviced since new, consider the lower housing repair kit (DQ5063). It's not that expensive (~$50) or hard to do. And get a couple of large cans of carb cleaner to get everything cleaned up before taking it apart. I had to start with a scraper!

RichnSue · 11-26-2019, 02:35 PM

imnprsd, my coach is setting on very flat spot, I've blocked all the tires. The coach settles down after 2-3 days onto the main frame, that is chassis air bags are down. I let the coach set all week, then went in and pumped the brakes until no air was heard.

My PurEst was mounted in a somewhat tough spot up on the main frame rail between the drive and tag axles. It did have just enough upper clearance to lift up and remove the cartridger cover (dome)

The way I did the job, raised the coach rear up on the hydraulic jacks enough to comfortable slide under, I'm on grass under there, placed safety stands under the rear main frame back by the motor area. I also lower the front jacks just enough to take some of the rear weight off the front suspension

Brought under with me 15mm wrench, 15mm socket with some extensions, lots of rags. I first clean off the dome and around where the separation was. Removed the four 15mm bolts, ended only using the wrench. Removed the cartridge dome slid out to the work bench to replace the cartridge.

Back under pull off the large O ring put on the new one checking several times that it was seated around the flange it went over. Placed the new cartridge (dome) up and on to the main purge assembly

Finger tightened each bolt and with X pattern torqued down the bolts

Prep work took maybe 30 minutes. Actual removal and install 15 minutes

Hope that helps, I won't be so hesitate to change again in a few years, first one always the hardest not knowing

couple pix of where mine is mounted