I need 4 in 1 gauge Freightliner

[Kahoona]

I need one of these for our RV. The numbers are

w22-00013-021 or 066S273971023
It is a Freightliner 4 in one gauge. It has cracked and Freightliner will sell me one for $425 +. I am hoping to find a used.

[LJowdy]

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=w22-00013

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by Kahoona

I need one of these for our RV. The numbers are
w22-00013-021 or 066S273971023
It is a Freightliner 4 in one gauge. It has cracked and Freightliner will sell me one for $425 +. I am hoping to find a used.

Just sharing a couple of options that you might not have thought of...

Back when I had a older 1950s car I purchased an old car that had cracked glass in several gauges. A local clock shop cut me new glass and swapped it in to each gauge.

If you are in a coastal area you might find a boat shop that does gauge repairs.

Locally here in Los Angeles there are a few places that cater to the old car community (I know a guy with a beautful old 1928 Packard with a straight 8 engine... he can tell a few stories about resurrecting it...)

$425 for a replacement? Does it work OK otherwise?

Even figuring for inflation (using https://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl ) my $11 in 1960 for new glass in a gauge is under $100 today ($1 for glass and $10 for labor).

[LJowdy]

The 2 best shops for gauge repair are North Hollywood Speedometer and Palo Alto Speedometer. Google them for more info.

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by LJowdy

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=w22-00013

I found that one. It looks the same but it works differently. Mine has hoses going into it.

Originally Posted by AnotherMike

A local clock shop cut me new glass and swapped it in to each gauge.

$425 for a replacement? Does it work OK otherwise?

Even figuring for inflation (using https://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl ) my $11 in 1960 for new glass in a gauge is under $100 today ($1 for glass and $10 for labor).

I apologize for not including the picture I took. The crack is in the housing and it leaks air from the compressor. The gauge(s) function fine but the air leak causes the brake alarm it come on and the compressor to short cycle. The housing cannot be bought seperatly ans id no longer made. I assume that they broke often since the newer models have a remote sensor and all electronic connections.

[Mod Edit]

[Spdracr39]

I would think your request would be more visible here. A lot of us rarely look at the classifieds.

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by Kahoona

I apologize for not including the picture I took. The crack is in the housing and it leaks air from the compressor. The gauge(s) function fine but the air leak causes the brake alarm it come on and the compressor to short cycle. The housing cannot be bought separately ans id no longer made.

I'd bet you that Freightliner doesn't have an instrument manufacturing plant, that they had an outside instrument company make them to their spec. It's unlikely but there might be a manufacturers name or logo inside or outside the housing...

Is the housing plastic? Can it be easily separated from the instrument assembly? Could a plastic gluing or welding process seal the crack? If it is in the outer cylindrical housing then then a radiator hose clamp could hold it together while the plastic dries/seals?

And I'd contact North Hollywood Speedometer and Palo Alto Speedometer, get an email address for each, then email them your photos and get a repair quote. Maybe check with your local small airport and see who they use to repair their air-pressure-driven instruments (i.e. altimeters and air speed indicators). A specialty instrument shop has probably seen cracked housings before... they might have a proven plastic sealing/welding process, or even an alternate source of housings... maybe even metal housings.

Originally Posted by Kahoona

I assume that they broke often since the newer models have a remote sensor and all electronic connections.

And I'd bet doing an update would be prohibitively expensive....


Mike

[market]

I also have a hairline crack in the rear of the 4 in 1, 5 inch Freightliner gauge in my 2012 Itasca Meridian 34Y which results in air leaking from the air system. I have thought about trying to inject some epoxy between the metal insert and the plastic housing inorder to stop the air leak. I thought Freightliner said the cost of a replacement gauge was $800 to $900 so $425 would be a bargain or maybe the price is going up as the supply goes down. I was hoping that if anyone else had encountered this problem, they might advise of a better fix.

2012 Itasca Meridian 34Y
2012 Honda CRV toad
Blue Ox Tow Bar
M & G Engineering Brake System
sing to try to stop the leak. I thought that Freightliner was quoting $800 to $900 for a replacement gauge.
Toad-Charge battery charging system

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by market

I also have a hairline crack in the rear of the 4 in 1, 5 inch Freightliner gauge in my 2012 Itasca Meridian 34Y which results in air leaking from the air system. I have thought about trying to inject some epoxy between the metal insert and the plastic housing inorder to stop the air leak. I thought Freightliner said the cost of a replacement gauge was $800 to $900 so $425 would be a bargain or maybe the price is going up as the supply goes down. I was hoping that if anyone else had encountered this problem, they might advise of a better fix.

2012 Itasca Meridian 34Y
2012 Honda CRV toad
Blue Ox Tow Bar
M & G Engineering Brake System
sing to try to stop the leak. I thought that Freightliner was quoting $800 to $900 for a replacement gauge.
Toad-Charge battery charging system

I tried it. I opened the outer section of the groove slightly and worked an epoxy with added adhesive (West Systems) into it, sanding the space around it and spreading the patch outward.

The other and possibly the best would be to get a thin plastic welding liquid. Aurora model cement used to make one. Then put a dab on the outside somewhere and see if it softens the plastic. If so the gauge is the correct plastic for the glue and flow the crack several times within five minutes. Add another coat further out. Do it inside and out if you can but just outside may work. Amazon sells Mr Hobby, Mr Cement, which I have used. It actually melts the edges and reforms rather than fills. I did not think to try that.



I give it a 75% chance and should not work loose.



In the end, after failing with the epoxy, I bought a new one. I believe I spent around $400. No used ones were available at junkyards. The retail was around $900 but after the parts department at the Freightliner place in Western FL had a good laugh (all of them in the room) they cut me a break and then located one in a backwater dealer and had it shipped to me. They confirmed, as some here guessed, that they were made in Mexico in one big batch and never again.



I felt that if the repair blew out while on the road leading to a brake failure and an unwanted emergency brake automatic application I would wish I had gotten the new gauge. Sometimes with Freightliner, the best solution involves a tight grip on one's ankles.

[hydro45640]

Check with visoneautomart.com

[market]

Well after debating the glue vs replace options and worried that replacement units might be discontinued, decided to try to purchase a new 4-in-1 gauge, the only problem being that I had left the part number in the coach and hadn't been back to where it was stored due to the pandemic. Called the Freightliner Help Line and they gave me W22-00013-022 and referred me to their parts center in Gaffney. I believe that Kahoona had listed a part number of W22-00013-021. Called the Gaffney Part Center and they also gave the -022 number. The first price quoted was $230 but by the time I wrote the number down, it was corrected to be $530. Still felt happy that it was much less than the $800 to $900 quoted by dealers closer to where the coach is stored. Went ahead and placed the order. Hopefully it is the correct replacement and not part of the batch that cracks.

2012 Itasca Meridian 34Y
2012 Honda CRV toad
Blue Ox Tow Bar
M & G Engineering Brake System
Toad-Charge battery charging system
RoadMaster TowDefender

[DrHorn98]

Market —

I have a 2013 Meridian with the same crack in this “made in Mexico” gauge as everyone else.

I see that you ordered a new one this year. Did you get the same quality as the broken ones with your replacement?

How difficult was it to install the new one? Was there anything required other than putting the connections back in place? I repaired mine and reinstalled it from the outer space in the dashboard and my RV was totally dead. Not even the panel of lights above the gauges would light up (glow plug light, etc). Did I do something wrong? My batteries are all lithium and are fully charged but engine will not turn over.

Thanks for any help or ideas —

[market]

DrHorn98--
I ordered and received a new 4-in-1 gauge but have not yet installed it. I probably won't be installing mine until October. Appearance-wise it looks exactly like the original only without the crack. I am hoping it will be a simple unplug the existing electrical connections and air hoses from the old gauge and plug them back into the new gauge. My only concern was reinstalling the metal clamp on the rear of the gauge with the wingnuts behind the dash. My wife was able to crawl into the foot pedal area and reach up to remove the wingnuts inorder to pull the original gauge out from the dash and assess the crack in the housing which was causing the hiss of escaping air.
I don't know why your RV was totally dead. In discussing it with my wife who only weighs about 100 lbs with small arms and hands, she said she was barely able to reach up behind the dash through all the wiring to reach the rear of the gauge. She thought that she had to reach past the ignition switch. Possibly one of the wires from the ignition switch was dislodged when you were reinstalling the gauge. Maybe a call to the Freightliner RV help center would help. They have been very helpful at times.

[market]

PS DrHorn98:
I found this write-up about the importance of properly routing the wiring from the gauge lest the wiring will be crushed. Not sure if this might have something to do with the loss of all power.
PSS: I'm not really sure if my new gauge will suffer the same "hairline crack" problem or how to tell if it is from the same batch. It seems like the problem has cropped up from around 2008 to 2013. Not sure when Freightliner changed designs to a completely separate air pressure sending unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbpeyton View Post
I found that my 4 in 1 gauge on the dash has engine temp, oil pressure, and 2 air tank gauges. The back of the gauge is cracked and leaking air where the right air gauge line connects. I am having a very hard time finding a replacement. Anyone know how to get the air lines off the back of the gauge? Is there a special tool that I need?
I had the same problem on my 2009 Journey. Same RH air connection. Tried applying fiberglass around the crack but it didn't stop the leak. Evidently there are issues with that vintage of gauge. You have to replace the complete gauge. It is easy to remove. There is an aluminum bracket behind the unit that pulls it against the dash opening with two wing nuts. You need to work "blind" to remove the wing nuts but once out, you can pull the instrument forward and out then remove the 2 air hoses and the 2 electrical connector. You press the flanges around the air hose and pull them out to remove them My advice is to get all the air out of the system unless you want to see the hoses do a wild dance under the dash. Once you have a new unit, it is about a 15 minute job to reinstall. Be careful when reinstalling to route the electrical wires over the bracket and not under - or they will get crushed.
Freightliner have them in stock at their Gaffney S.C. FCCC factory service centre so that tells you they are a frequently required part. The Freightliner part number is "w22-00013-024" and it is called a "4 in 1 Air Gauge" and the cost is approx $375. Good luck.
__________________
Bob
09 Journey 39Z
Southern Ontario