Jack stands?

[Cdn-Tx]

Going to pull the wheels. How big a jack stand do people use? Have 5-ton ones which in therory should be enough but not sure.

[OneRVer]

Thanks for asking this question. I hope someone gives us an answer.

[KIX]

I it were me I would use a stand rated for 3/4 of the axle capacity. For instance.. if your rear axle is rated at 20,000# then I would use stands rated at 8 tons each or higher. I know that sounds like more capacity than you are lifting but that's exactly my point.
Be sure you use non-Chinese products.
Good luck and be careful.

[Cdn-Tx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX I it were me I would use a stand rated for 3/4 of the axle capacity. For instance.. if your rear axle is rated at 20,000# then I would use stands rated at 8 tons each. I know that sounds like more capacity than you are lifting but that's exactly my point. Be sure you use non-Chinese products. Good luck and be careful.

Thanks...I was thinking to be safe I’d go with something around the 20 ton range. I think one good 20 ton stand and a good quality 20 ton hydraulic jack would be a good investment.

[KIX]

Check the lug nut torque values for your moho before you invest in stands and jacks. The torque on our coach is 450#. Even with a torque multiplier my skinny self would have a problem with that.
Also, use your levelers (assume you have hydraulic levelers) to lift the axle then the stands to support it. And that is why I would use timbers to support......I can position them with a "stick" and retrieve them with a hook rather than crawling under the coach while on a hydraulic jack.

[Cdn-Tx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX Check the lug nut torque values for your moho before you invest in stands and jacks. The torque on our coach is 450#. Even with a torque multiplier my skinny self would have a problem with that. Also, use your levelers (assume you have hydraulic levelers) to lift the axle then the stands to support it. And that is why I would use timbers to support......I can position them with a "stick" and retrieve them with a hook rather than crawling under the coach while on a hydraulic jack.

I have a 4-to-1 multiplier 1-inch drive so lugs aren't a problem. Tinbers are ok but harder to locate than a stand.

[radams]

I can't swear to this but I read once where the rating on stands is actually for the pair. Maybe that's the Chinese variation.

[movin-on]

Quote:

Originally Posted by radams I can't swear to this but I read once where the rating on stands is actually for the pair. Maybe that's the Chinese variation.

This is true...The rating is for the pair...
I got one of these to take off lug nuts...Piece of cake..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TORQU...item255e11aded

[SpursMVP]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cdn-Tx Going to pull the wheels. How big a jack stand do people use? Have 5-ton ones which in therory should be enough but not sure.

Great information here.

One question....what service are you doing when pulling the wheels off? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something in the normal maintanance area.

[hardy1000]

I use 12 ton capacity jack stands.

[wa8yxm]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX I it were me I would use a stand rated for 3/4 of the axle capacity. For instance.. if your rear axle is rated at 20,000# then I would use stands rated at 8 tons each or higher. I know that sounds like more capacity than you are lifting but that's exactly my point. Be sure you use non-Chinese products. Good luck and be careful.

Sounds like a plan to me. (A good one)

Remember this.. IF the jack stand is stronger then the job requires, You will never know it

But if the jack stand is not strong enough.. YOU WILL. (And it will be costly)

When I changed a tire on a friend's workhorse I use a 12 ton air/hydraulic jack.. In it's fully collasped position it would the hub/brake rotor would not have contacted the ground. The nice thing about this harbor freight jack is that I had very precise (Tiny fraction of an inch) control over the height of the hub.. so it was easy to wiggle the tire assembly on and off the hub without having to lift it, Then apply one or two lug nuts and lift it enough to hammer them down (Impact wrench) properly.

[Cdn-Tx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpursMVP Great information here. One question....what service are you doing when pulling the wheels off? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something in the normal maintanance area.

My usual maintenance schedules are ALWAYS overkill but no matter what I have (cars, pickups, motorcycles etc) I tend to want to check everything over top to bottom, front to back. Reason for pulling the wheels is to take a good look at the brakes. And I will do my own air brakes when they need it (have worked on heavy equipment when I was young) and it’s always nice to know you have a “system” in place before you actually need it. For instance, I have already designed in my head a dolly to slide the wheel assembly onto the hubs. Need to build it and try it out.

We bought this MH just last week but probably won’t use it till earliest next spring. I won’t be comfortable till I’ve gone through every potential item that could cause problems on the road. Doesn’t guarantee it won’t happen but at least if it does, I know I did everything I could to circumvent. I’ve never trusted repair shops. Flat rate pay system produces shortcuts and omissions.

[deandec]

I just purchased a 12 ton combo for our 20,000 lb rear axle. They are rated 12 ton only if both jack stands are used at the same time in similar positions per the instructions.

They also warn not to crawl under vehicle when using the jack stands. Gotta wonder why they sell them if they will not work!

[Cdn-Tx]

After everyone’s comments, I’m thinking the all round best approach would be as follows. Lower the air bags and extend the leveling jacks as far as possible. Block the corner I want to perform the wheel removal with large wooden blocking OR 20-ton-ish jack stand direct onto the frame. Then retract the leveling jacks which still might put a bit of weight on the tire. With most of the coaches weight supported on the frame, the front or rear axle should lift pretty east with a 10-ton screw jack. Ideal is up just enough to wiggle the wheel off the hub. That corner would be supported primarily by the frame with the weight of the axle end picked up by the screw jack.
Anyone do it this way? Any potential issues you can see.