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Old 04-22-2012, 01:11 PM   #29
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RE," So to be clear" in your other post. Caution ! DO NOT LOOSEN ANY BOLT OR CONNECTION, IN THE AIR SYSTEM WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING !!! Or start the engine with any loose parts/fittings. The purge valve is spring loaded to close, electro- magnet to pop it open. If it is leaking touching the center tip of the valve my re-seat it, but the proper repair is to bleed the air from the system. Remove and clean the valve or replace if necessary. Once again Good Luck. If you find no leaks then Id look at the governor too.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
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If the dryer filter was replaced, the shop may have inadvertantly left the filter/filter housing loose, or allowed a speck of dirt into the purge valve, thats alowing a leak.
Just checked the invoice and of course the shop didn't do as I asked. I got a new fuel filter, oil filter and an oil change/lube. That's it. Why is it so bloody hard for shops to just do what they're asked these days, sighhhhh...

Oh well, at least I now know a couple more things. 1. the shop didn't screw up the dryer, they never touched it and 2. I probably need to service the air dryer since the shop didn't touch it.

None of this means the purge valve is not the problem, but its less likely a leaky filter/filter housing since it hasn't been touched. The good news is I now have two viable solid leads - the purge valve and the governor.

Thanks to all, you have no idea how much I appreciate the help. Drinks are on me if we ever run into each other
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:05 PM   #31
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RE," So to be clear" in your other post. Caution ! DO NOT LOOSEN ANY BOLT OR CONNECTION, IN THE AIR SYSTEM WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING !!! Or start the engine with any loose parts/fittings. The purge valve is spring loaded to close, electro- magnet to pop it open. If it is leaking touching the center tip of the valve my re-seat it, but the proper repair is to bleed the air from the system. Remove and clean the valve or replace if necessary. Once again Good Luck. If you find no leaks then Id look at the governor too.
This should be easy. I just located both the purge valve and the governor. The air dryer is under the back bumper, completely out in the open. Don't even have to get under the coach to service it.

The good news is if Skip426 is right and I have a stuck solinoid it should be venting air out the bottom of the air dryer. Easy cheesy, I could have the solinoid off, cleaned and back in place before DW calls me for dinner.

The bad news is if its the governor - OMG! I laid under the coach for probably 10 minutes just staring at it, thinking of how I can R&R this guy. You can see it - barely, but its burried under I don't know how many lines/tubes/wires/pipes/etc.

I've been a jet engine mechanic, auto mech, built muscle cars and Harleys over the years. I've done the contortionist thing to get access to some crazy components. I've used 3 extensions and two wigglies to get to one silly nut, but I don't even know where to begin on this bad boy.

Here's hoping I fire it up tomorrow and the purge valve is... well... purging. But in my 50 years of turning wrenches its been my experience that either the most expensive or the most difficult to change component is the one that will fail first
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:42 PM   #32
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Arghhh... this is getting worse and worse. Alright, one more go around and I think it might be time to call in the calvary.

Went to the coach this morning to check the purge valve solinoid. Fired up the engine and nothing, not a drop coming out the valve. So before doing anything else I decided to (once again) cycle the entire air system. I dumped the tanks, dumped the bags and bled the brake pedal until I was down to zero on both gauges. Fired it up and watched it slowly build back up to 60-ish psi. Once again crawled under as a last gasp to see if I maybe missed something, anything obvious and noticed that both front bags were completely flat - not an ounce of air in either one!

Rear bags are both full but the fronts are getting nothing, zero, nada. Which tickled something in the back of my brain. I kind of remember thinking while crawling the last few days that it didn't used to be this tight under the front, there's always been plenty of room to wiggle my ample body around under there, but being focused on leaks and the like I really didn't put 2 and 2 together.

Thinking back, this whole thing started when I dumped the bags while camping a couple weeks ago. Maybe this symptom can narrow it down. Where the air that is suppose to be directed to the front bags is going I haven't a clue, but its not getting to the bags, and I don't think its being vented overboard, I think I would have heard that much air porting out.

So one more go-around, then I'm thinking its maybe time to call Coach-Net and tell them to send the hook.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #33
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Here is a block diagram. Hope it helps a bit
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:57 PM   #34
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A wrap-up on this thread.

The low air problem ended up being a combination of several things: the D2 valve (governor, compressor controller, it goes by several names) was bad, changing that got me to 80psi. Also had a pretty decent leak in a crimp connection on the Bugle line and that fix got me back to 135psi. While we were at it a new air dryer filter was installed as well. The air system should now be in tip top shape, unless by running at factory spec pressures again I blow something else

My sincere thanks to all who so freely offered their ideas and knowledge throughout this process, you're the best-ist!

cheers...
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:46 AM   #35
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #36
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While setting up camp last week I dumped air to lower the coach. No big deal. But while breaking camp and warming up my air pressure was down to 60-ish, the low air warning buzzer was screaming and it took a VERY long time to just get to 100. I've always lost a few pounds while parked but never down to 60 and it always built back up in just a few minutes of idling.

I usually run around 130 on both air systems but now, even after being at speed on the road for some time I'm not much above 100psi.

I'm running a 1996 36' HR Endeavor DP on an X-Line 4 bag Freightliner chassis. It might be just a coincidence but this is the first trip I've felt the need to dump air at camp and the first time I've had a pressure problem.

The only change I've made to the MoHo was the addition of a trailer brake controller. Also on this same trip I started seeing some strange electrical issues, e.g. guages bouncing around, dash heater blower acting squirrley, etc. I can't see how this could be affecting the compressor, but Murphy being who he is, well...

Any troubleshooting advise would be appreciated. The moho is approaching in-op with air pressure this low and DW has another trip planned for us next month. And we all know that we can't disappoint DW
Howdy, I am a retired cross country trucker. It would be rare to see a brand new truck that the air pressure did not drop 40 to 50 pounds overnight. You have a 16 year old vehicle that only drops to 60 pounds over night?? wow wow. I would not be concerened about 100 pounds pressure. Most trucks max out at 110. If this happened on my Peterbilt that I drove for 25 Years and 3.1 million miles on the SAME truck, I would be tapping the air govenor located on the side of the air compressor, sometimes they may stick. If this did not help I would replace the under $25.00 Bendix air govenor. Provided you have reasonable access, it is a 20 minute job with normal hand tools, but an allen wrench will be required to replace some plugs. Watch close and plumb it like the old one. If this did not repair ir, its probably time for a new compressor. Several hundred $$ here. Again my main concern would be how long it takes to reach max pressure. If it will build and maintane 100 pounds, I would not be concerned, if it gets much lower, its time for concern. on the electric problems, I am going to remain silent, but they should not be connected to your air problem

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