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Old 08-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #29
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The right way to do it is to remove the rad. I believe Fire-Up did it and has some good PICS.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchero View Post
The right way to do it is to remove the rad. I believe Fire-Up did it and has some good PICS.
Hey thanks Robert for the plug of good faith. The cleaning of a rear radiator on many D/P units can be a night mare. So many on here think they're all the same. Well, apprarently they've not been around a lot of them. The access to the engine, for some, in and of itself is a nightmare. On ours, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, is not very hard at all. Lift the bed, remove all the WIFES stuff, and, then un-bolt the two engine covers, one large and one small.

But, even with both of those completely removed, the radiator and CAC are still hidden from the shroud and, at least two feet away, from even a hard access. Some here on this site, have cut an "access" hole, in the top of the radiator shroud to be able to be used for multiple purposes. Cleaning or, at least TRYING to clean the CAC and engine side of the radiator is one of them.

But, I'm certainly not going to speak for all rear radiator coaches out there but, there was no way, humanly possible, to do an ACCURATE and THOROUGH job of it. Not on my coach anyway and, not as bad as it was. It was well worth it for me to pull both units and, do it out on a set of saw horses. I learned a lot and, I got to inspect all kinds of important stuff and, even replace some bearings in components back there.

I'm not going to doubt anyones word here, it's not my place but, for a shop to "steam clean" a radiator, from the back side and not BLOW IT ALL INTO THE BACK SIDE OF THE CAC, well, all I can say is, I hope it works for the gent. And, even a powerful steam cleaner cannot blow through radiator fins and also, clean a 3"-4" thick set of fins on a CAC which, is a few inches away from the front side of the radiator. Again, not doubting any ones word. I'd kind-a have to see the results, up close, AFTER they were done steaming.

One thing here, much of how the job turns out depends on just how bad it was when the operation was started. Two things:

1. If the blow-by tube has been extended to a point that it's no longer capable of depositing an oil film on either set of fins, that makes for waaaaaay easier cleaning at a future date.

2. IF, it's a CAT engine, and, a 7.2L C-7 and, has a 19 Quart oil pan, AND, has the CORRECT amount of oil in it, as in 19 quarts, you'll be good to go to because many CAT owners have installed too much oil due to improper dipstick markings

Once those corrections have been done, the need for cleaning the fins on a rear radiator is not nearly as much of a maintenance item as it was prior to that. But, it doesn't hurt to do it on an "as needed" basis.
Scott
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:12 PM   #31
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mercho/fireup could'nt say it any better here one that was "cleaned" from both sides while it was in the coach?
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:57 PM   #32
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I would love to pull everything out, but its a physical impossibility for me. I spent probably 6 hours inside my closet fishing the sprayer to completely saturate the cc. I then snaked the steam cleaner and mostly concentrated on the two areas in the picture. I had a very bright portable led lamp go show me the areas. I've been driving it for nearly a year and no overheating issues. Now that that the slobber tube is extended, I can spry it a couple of times a year with a hose to keep it clean.
I know the best thing to do is to remove rad and CAC, but since I can't, it saved 1500-2000
Doing what I did.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:03 PM   #33
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air direction

I learn something every day, even though I should have realized it when I stand behind the motorhome with the motor running. And that is that the air moves front to back first thru the CAC and then the radiator and out the back. Right?

On my motorhome, I can lay under it, off to the side and get a pretty good shot at the engine fan/CAC core with both a pumper with simple green or similar in it and/or a garden hose. Excellent idea to let the engine fan do the work for you. Will try this method when I clean. My rig has only 5k miles on it and only a few months old and right now as far as I can see the fan blades, housing and CAC look clean as a whistle.
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Old 10-04-2016, 06:46 AM   #34
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This version of simple green says it is safe for aluminum.

Simple Green Pro HD 128 oz. Professional-Grade Heavy-Duty Cleaner-2110000413421 - The Home Depot
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:59 AM   #35
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So you think you can just blow stuff out? NOT !
You may have missing my post on what I found between the CAC and Radiator just a few months ago. leaves, old belts and plastic bags and lots of clogged fins.
visit the postings here on IRV2
Radiator Removal and Waterpump

While I was replacing the radiator also replaced the tensionizer, front seal and temperature thermostat. Then on reassembly placed a barrier of galvanized metal and aluminum tap on the top of the CAC to the radiator, too prevent debris from falling in between the two items.
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:27 AM   #36
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So you think you can just blow stuff out? NOT !
You may have missing my post on what I found between the CAC and Radiator just a few months ago. leaves, old belts and plastic bags and lots of clogged fins.
visit the postings here on IRV2
Radiator Removal and Waterpump

While I was replacing the radiator also replaced the tensionizer, front seal and temperature thermostat. Then on reassembly placed a barrier of galvanized metal and aluminum tap on the top of the CAC to the radiator, too prevent debris from falling in between the two items.
How much room is there typically between the CAC and radiator? No matter how much room there is, I suppose some things can get in the gap there. But wouldn't at least most of it work its way down and come out the bottom and be laying on or around the bottom of the CAC shroud and get blown away by the engine fan?
Anyway, when I look into the CAC area, it looks pretty clean and the simple green spray and hot water rinse seems alot easier to do annually as a preventative measure over removing the radiator, a task I would never do myself. Unless I have very good reason to suspect a clogged CAC, such as operating temp changes, etc, why spend that kind of money or time to pull the radiator? Unless of course there are other things that need to be done back there anyway.
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:57 AM   #37
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Just because one guy finds leafs and bags between the two means everyone else has the same issue.
I have 50k on my rear radiator and will most likley pull it myself to give her a good cleaning. I will report back on my findings.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:25 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Just because one guy finds leafs and bags between the two means everyone else has the same issue.
I have 50k on my rear radiator and will most likley pull it myself to give her a good cleaning. I will report back on my findings.
Yep ! leaves, bags and if you noticed a drive belt. there is about 1inch between the CAC and Radiator. Now two years ago we took a drive through the state forest in PA up near Worlds End. It was an 18 mile trip on dirt roads through the forest in the fall. Absolutely beautiful ride. Pretty tricky at times. That is where the leaves came from But the shopping bags can get pick up any where. That belt was in the leaves so I am guessing it was from a lost belt two years ago. Anything can get past the fan and up behind the CAC.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:32 PM   #39
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Good information ladagobago!
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:09 AM   #40
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Quote:
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How much room is there typically between the CAC and radiator? No matter how much room there is, I suppose some things can get in the gap there. But wouldn't at least most of it work its way down and come out the bottom and be laying on or around the bottom of the CAC shroud and get blown away by the engine fan?
Anyway, when I look into the CAC area, it looks pretty clean and the simple green spray and hot water rinse seems alot easier to do annually as a preventative measure over removing the radiator, a task I would never do myself. Unless I have very good reason to suspect a clogged CAC, such as operating temp changes, etc, why spend that kind of money or time to pull the radiator? Unless of course there are other things that need to be done back there anyway.
on this FL/Cummins arrangement there is no way for anything to fall out the bottom or sides. It is a TRAP and the only way to see down there is by looking over the top of the CAC with a camera, mirror or scope. If you had some kind of a 3/4 tube on a vacuum you might be able to clean out the area. Maybe. I used a piece of galvanized metal and aluminum HVAC tape to secure a barrier at the top of the CAC to prevent future debris from being captured in the space.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:55 PM   #41
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If this is a rear radiator Freightliner chassis, the fan sucks air IN and blows it FORWARD into the engine compartment.

If this is a Freightliner side radiator chassis, the fan pulls air from the engine compartment and blows it out to the left side of the coach.

As s Freightliner tech once told me, rear radiators suck and side radiators blow.
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Old 10-07-2016, 10:57 PM   #42
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I dont know what that Freightliner tech was smokin but you information is terribly wrong!

The fan blows air straight out the back, first thru the charge air cooler then the radiator! If your rear radiator is suckin from rear to front your fan must be on backwards!
LOL
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