rear air bags

[JBroadaway]

Just noticed my rear airbags are not deflating when I park and used the jacks. Front air bags do deflate. Any suggestions? 2005 Itasca Meridian on Freightliner chassis.

[MaverickBBD]

It is probably the switch/valve. Give 1. 800. FTL HELP a call and they can guide you to it. If they don't answer your call right away, leave a message and number. They are 100% on their call back.

[ahicks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBroadaway Just noticed my rear airbags are not deflating when I park and used the jacks. Front air bags do deflate. Any suggestions? 2005 Itasca Meridian on Freightliner chassis.

Mine's doing the same thing. Been doing some troubleshooting. I have power to the solenoid when I push the button to deflate the bags (my solenoid is located on the RH frame rail just forward of the rear bumper), and the valve works when I hook 12v. to it directly. I'm thinking the wire is too small to supply adequate amperage due to the small gauge wire used and length of wire to get back there, so I'm going to try installing a relay near the solenoid. I'll use the wiring already in place to control (close) the relay, which will then shoot a much more potent shot of 12v power (from the nearby starting batteries) to that solenoid. Hopefully that'll take care of it. If not, we'll replace the solenoid.

[ddupille]

I had the same problem when I flipped the dump valve, no rear deflation.
I began tracing the white 1/4" air line from the dump valve to each leveler and discovered a line had disconnected from a brass/copper splice connector. The 1/4" white line is the exhaust and signal line for dumping the bags.
There could be other causes such as mentioned earlier. Once I re-connected the line it worked. Hope this helps, good luck!

Dave D.

[ahicks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahicks Mine's doing the same thing. Been doing some troubleshooting. I have power to the solenoid when I push the button to deflate the bags (my solenoid is located on the RH frame rail just forward of the rear bumper), and the valve works when I hook 12v. to it directly. I'm thinking the wire is too small to supply adequate amperage due to the small gauge wire used and length of wire to get back there, so I'm going to try installing a relay near the solenoid. I'll use the wiring already in place to control (close) the relay, which will then shoot a much more potent shot of 12v power (from the nearby starting batteries) to that solenoid. Hopefully that'll take care of it. If not, we'll replace the solenoid.

I just got around to further addressing this problem. Previously, trouble shooting had revealed the valve was in fact "clicking" when power was applied. This time I took this to mean it was somehow working. Not knowing what I would find, I removed the valve for what would be a post mortem if it was found bad and not able to be fixed, or a refurb if I could figure out what was ailing it. Either way, it was going to be replaced or repaired. Might as well pull it.

After some careful dis-assembly and cleaning (this was installed right in the path of the "stuff" from the slobber tube!), it was found that the exhaust port was firmly blocked with a dose of the creeping crud. At only about 1/16", I figured too small for a mud dauber, but a small drill bit cleaned it right up and restored full functionality. There is no way you would be able to reach the blocked area without total dis-assembly - which wasn't that bad actually. The solenoid coil came off as a sub assembly with the removal of a nut, revealing a nicely built all stainless steel valve assembly. Once that was cleaned up, I was able to figure out how to get that apart, and the rest was all down hill. Nothing special. FWIW