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Old 10-23-2017, 09:25 PM   #1
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Replacing Air Dryer Desiccant & Coalescent Filter.......anyone done this?

Question please:

1) I called Freightliner Help and they could not tell me what type of Air dryer system I have (Bendix AD-9, Bendix AD-IP, Haldex PURest, WABCO System Saver 1200 Plus are all listed in my maintenance manual). they did tell me the filter part is BW 107796. When I google this, I get this part:
https://www.finditparts.com/products...IaAh8kEALw_wcB
So I'm assuming that I have a Bendix AD-9 system, correct?

2) Has anyone changed this filter themselves? In the Freightliner maintenance manual, it states that there is a spin off desiccant cartridge, a coalescent filter, some o-rings, etc. Do all of these parts come with a new cartridge?

3) And finally, where is this filter assembly located???

Any advice appreciated. Looks like a spin on filter and cartridge with o-ring replacement. Looks like it could be a DIY job?

P.S. I am going to the Freightliner Camp in February.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:42 PM   #2
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When you start the engine and are building air pressure, does your are dryer cycle after 120 psi is achieved? If so, start the engine, listen for that sound and you will have found the location. You will need to look and see the actual part to confirm the exact filter system model, there will be a tag model mounted on the filter.
They are a simple system to service by yourself no special tools required.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1doodadd View Post
When you start the engine and are building air pressure, does your are dryer cycle after 120 psi is achieved? If so, start the engine, listen for that sound and you will have found the location. You will need to look and see the actual part to confirm the exact filter system model, there will be a tag model mounted on the filter.
They are a simple system to service by yourself no special tools required.
Hmmm......not sure. Do you mean is there a hiss of air after I start the engine and the two systems air up? I think there is. It's a 2 or 3 second loud hiss I think? I think after I apply the brakes when driving I hear it too.
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Old 10-24-2017, 05:40 AM   #4
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Replacing the air dryer desiccant cartridge is typically a nasty job. It's usually located around your rear axel. The cartridge housing will be covered in mud, dirt, grease, etc. It's really important that you clean the housing well BEFORE attempting to remove the cartridge. If you get dirt into your air dryer, you may introduce it into your air system / compressor which will create bigger problems.

I've changed mine once. I won't do it again. Unless you have a lift or other method of easy access, I'd leave this one to the pros.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:25 AM   #5
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F14 Aviator is right it is a nasty job. I service my air dryer twice. The first time I rebuilt the unit the second time I purchased a new unit. My dryer is older and does not have a removable cartridge. Rebuilding was a real nasty job. The first thing to do is a crawl underneath the motorhome to determine the brand and model number of the dryer and then go from there.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:25 AM   #6
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The coalescent filter is on top of the engine valve cover. Have not done it yet, but does not look hard. Many bolts.
This filter drops the crankcase oil mist blow by back into the engine. Eliminated venting/polluting crankcase pollutants into atmosphere and the slobber tube.
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiesta48 View Post
The coalescent filter is on top of the engine valve cover. Have not done it yet, but does not look hard. Many bolts.
This filter drops the crankcase oil mist blow by back into the engine. Eliminated venting/polluting crankcase pollutants into atmosphere and the slobber tube.
Changing this filter takes about 10 minutes. About a half dozen small bolts and the cover comes off, lift out the old one and replace it. Care should be used to make sure the gasket on the new one seats. A good idea to place the old one in a plastic bag, it may have enough oil in it drip on the floor.
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Old 10-24-2017, 01:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsamole View Post
F14 Aviator is right it is a nasty job. I service my air dryer twice. The first time I rebuilt the unit the second time I purchased a new unit. My dryer is older and does not have a removable cartridge. Rebuilding was a real nasty job. The first thing to do is a crawl underneath the motorhome to determine the brand and model number of the dryer and then go from there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiesta48 View Post
The coalescent filter is on top of the engine valve cover. Have not done it yet, but does not look hard. Many bolts.
This filter drops the crankcase oil mist blow by back into the engine. Eliminated venting/polluting crankcase pollutants into atmosphere and the slobber tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by garykk View Post
Changing this filter takes about 10 minutes. About a half dozen small bolts and the cover comes off, lift out the old one and replace it. Care should be used to make sure the gasket on the new one seats. A good idea to place the old one in a plastic bag, it may have enough oil in it drip on the floor.
Thanks. This filter I was able to find pretty easily. I'm going to give that one a try tomorrow. It's this air dryer air filter I was wondering about.
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:56 PM   #9
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yes its a dirty job, because of the location of the dryer.
best source for actual brand and number is a visual as some of the ones installed at f/l must have changed during a series.
i changed mine and did call the ftl line to verify the part numbers.
then ordered the right one and got dirty a few days later.
i found it was easier to take the whole thing off the frame and do the whole thing on a work bench and then re install.

https://www.rvchassisparts.com:8443/...is/runApp?id=5
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:13 PM   #10
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yes its a dirty job, because of the location of the dryer.
best source for actual brand and number is a visual as some of the ones installed at f/l must have changed during a series.
i changed mine and did call the ftl line to verify the part numbers.
then ordered the right one and got dirty a few days later.
i found it was easier to take the whole thing off the frame and do the whole thing on a work bench and then re install.

https://www.rvchassisparts.com:8443/...is/runApp?id=5
Where is your dryer located? I never got around to finding mine on my XCS chassis. It wasn't anywhere obvious.
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:46 PM   #11
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The air dryer is usually located aft of the rear axle, DS of engine, along the frame rails. Follow the sound of the popoff valve. Access from below.
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garykk View Post
Changing this filter takes about 10 minutes. About a half dozen small bolts and the cover comes off, lift out the old one and replace it. Care should be used to make sure the gasket on the new one seats. A good idea to place the old one in a plastic bag, it may have enough oil in it drip on the floor.
I have not done this. Its in the top of the engine, correct - so one has to go through the bedroom floor access?
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ualdriver View Post
Where is your dryer located? I never got around to finding mine on my XCS chassis. It wasn't anywhere obvious.
driver side way up high on the frame right inline with the driveshaft u joints, as it gets covered in fresh grease when the joints are purged and i cant get all the old stuff off.
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:20 PM   #14
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I have not done this. Its in the top of the engine, correct - so one has to go through the bedroom floor access?
yes, aft end of valve cover, its easy to spot and yes floor panel on most is best way to get to it.

lay rags on ground and drop the old one on the ground...do not carry it through the coach as the only hole you missed in the baggie will make a MESS on your floor
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