Tough question about Coolant

[powerboatr]

I have to replace both my lower radiator cross over tube (alum one that runs under the engine to the tranny cooler , you know the one that hangs down low) rubber hoses that connect one end to the engine block and the other one to the side of the transmission cooler.

with only 11988 miles on the coolant i surely dont want to waste it,

any idea how much is going to drain out?
my damon and cummins book are vague at best?

but
oriellies has the final charge on sale this week...might be worth my while to swap it all out?

thanks

[Pusherman]

I don't know the volume off my head, but you can verify this by calling either your chassis manufacturer (who actually put the coolant in) or the engine manufacturer, most likely.

Either way you go, I recommend buying the pre-diluted 50/50 mix as they use the correct pH balanced and filtered water to coolant ratio. I also think it's close to the same $'s if you buy the concentrate. Never put tap water in your cooling system. With all the minerals in it, it will gunk up much faster.

[Harry B]

I have a side radiator with an ISL 400 but Freightliner installed parts may not differ much. On my radiator on the backside toward the bottom is a drain cock which you can open/close and regulated to drain the cooling fluid. I used it to catch the fluid when I replaced my old cooling fluid with new. I drained about 5-6 gallons out of it.

[powerboatr]

i have been doing some more reading and phoning
looks like the zone between 13 qts -22 qts, depending on which petcocks i open
definitely going to close the heater hoses

drain it into clean new plastic bags lining a few five gallon buckets then pump it back in when i am done
may take a few hrs to get it done.....
after it warms up some outside

[Mr_D]

Here is a good article written by Brett Wolf for the CAT RV club:

I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience.
To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are “low silicate coolant for diesels” with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.

Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.

Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear.

At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ¾” lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.

If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.

Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture.

This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.

Check belts while you are in there.

Our ISC side radiator on Spartan takes 12 gallons of coolant. Unless you can GUARANTEE that you're getting all the flushing water out then you DON'T want to use the premix. You can use tap water IF you have it analyzed first and it falls within your manufacturers specs, but for 69¢ a gallon (Wal*Mart) for distilled water it's not worth it.

[powerboatr]

thanks
i am really hoping not to loose any of my coolant to the waste plant during this event.
but if i do then its getting a full flush and refill with final charge
I have access to 99% pure water so flushing wont be a problem or doing the refill. I hope

[Harry B]

I was able to catch all the old coolant when I changed my coolant out to Final Charge. I spoke with the manufacturer of Final Charge and they said you need to get 80% of the old coolant out. Final Charge 50/50 mixture will function correctly with the remainder of the old coolant. Each time you flush, about 2 gallons remains in the system, even by blowing the lines out with air (about 20 lbs of pressure). So I flushed three times which should have done the trick.

Info just in case you decide to go the flush/replace route.