Community Forums

greystroke · 06-28-2012, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Horizonchase

Now that seems like the way to go. Yours is the second comment that I have read where only the filter is changed and the oil remains in the engine. I might just do that seeing as how synthetic oil is very expensive, and the tests that your company performed showed no appreciable degradation in the oil through testing.
As a general rule I always change the oil and filter whenever I do an oil change and have always wondered about those folks who only changed therir filters and not the oil too. Especially using dino oils!

You have an expensive engine and it is your decision. Don't expect to get sympathy from the engine mfgr if something goes wrong and they find out that you have extended oil change interval without approval.

For my Ford 7.3L diesel it is shear madness to extend the oil change interval. The oil system acts as hydraulics for injector operation. Dirt in the injector path could damage the injectors. I don't know how it works in your engine. My cummins does not work this way and is a little more forgiving for dirt and soot wise. But the only way to keep the engine clean is to change that oil. Analysis cleans nothing even though I recommend it so you can see the condition of engine.

Just my opinion and I know others differ. My bottom line opinion is synthetic is great but don't try to extend your change interval.

Damon Outlaw · 06-28-2012, 08:16 AM

If you are worried about harmful particulates, use better filtration. Following manufacturer recommended oil change intervals won't help much, if at all, for reducing harmful particulates. Filters get more efficient at removing particles the longer they are in use until they go into bypass mode or restrict flow . Changing filters early before they reach highest filtration efficiency can actually cause more wear.

Better synthetic oils + better filtration + oil analysis = longer oil change intervals and reduction in total costs. This is what many individuals and fleets do to save time and money and reduce environmental impact, and have done so for decades.

rgreen45 · 06-28-2012, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damon Outlaw

Changing filters early before they reach highest filtration efficiency can actually cause more wear.

Now I know there are two of us who think this way

EDALLSAILS · 06-29-2012, 09:47 AM

Try this link. More infomation on Oil than you want. More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
Seriousley, once you get beyond the mfg hipe and pitch on their product get a OSHA or MSDS form from their web site. It lists all the indegredients. FIRST thing you'll see is there is very little difference. Sometimes .05% ash, or .005& zinc. No one mfg has the secret to making synthetic oil "better". Ask, "better" than what? The best lubrication protection you can get is to follow your Chassis-engine specifications. change it, change filters and enjoy your mh. good shopping ed

Damon Outlaw · 06-30-2012, 07:30 PM

Even better than MSDS are Product Data or Typical Property Sheets. These list physical properties of the product.

Pick one with low NOAK volatility, low pour point, high TBN (acid neutralization), high flash point, high zinc and phosphorous, high Viscosity Index, and high High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity that meet the API category and SAE viscosity stated in your owners manual. The best chemical synthetic base oils combined with the best additive packages will result in the best overall numbers.

Also pick the oil that has the best parts and labor warranty. Most only cover a few thousand miles for severe service and only some lubricated parts, where others warranty several times the OEM recommended interval and cover all lubricated parts.

For the OP, your manual may list a European oil spec, such as MB228.51 MB229.31
or MB229.51. If it does, please list. You should use an oil that lists that spec, or one that replaced it later.