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Old 09-12-2018, 10:31 AM   #1
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2007 Travel Supreme ME Dash Air Issue

My dash air won't provide cold air, because the system can't contain the refrigerant gas needed (i.e., there is a leak in the system that my coach service people (Cummins Power South) can't find and fix); Cummins PS replaced some of the system components, but that didn't fix the problem. They have now referred me to a specialist group that can't help me for weeks, and that might have to replace the tubing that runs between the dash area and the engine. Can anyone suggest how I might test the system, as I would like to actually see where the system is leaking. I'm assuming the tubing is routed within the subflooring and maybe the frame. I miss having the dash air, as its absence causes me to run my roof airs (hence my generator) while I'm traveling. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:35 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raywaller View Post
My dash air won't provide cold air, because the system can't contain the refrigerant gas needed (i.e., there is a leak in the system that my coach service people (Cummins Power South) can't find and fix); Cummins PS replaced some of the system components, but that didn't fix the problem. They have now referred me to a specialist group that can't help me for weeks, and that might have to replace the tubing that runs between the dash area and the engine. Can anyone suggest how I might test the system, as I would like to actually see where the system is leaking. I'm assuming the tubing is routed within the subflooring and maybe the frame. I miss having the dash air, as its absence causes me to run my roof airs (hence my generator) while I'm traveling. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Just run the Roof air - I've spent Thousands and Thousands and to no avail - Get it Cool keep it Cool - And I started when it was under Warranty - worked for 30 days then gone - it's just a dollar and cents thing.

JMHO,

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Old 09-12-2018, 01:14 PM   #3
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Went to a local Spartan authorized repair place in Calgary Alberta, they diagnosed a similar leak on the line on ours and replaced it. Works great now.
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:12 AM   #4
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If it is leaking refrigerant it can be found and fixed!

How quickly does it leak out?

You just haven't taken it to the right person. We like our dash air also and would not want to be without it.

You might try to find someone with a good rating close to where you are from this forum. I've had good luck with it in the past.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:56 PM   #5
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When I had the same problem, I was able to find a great air conditioning repair shop that would work on any system, car, truck, or motorhome. He found it had been repaired before using wrong fitting on the refrigerant line. He had it two days, cost $400, and has lasted over two years now.
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:54 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by MrDave2You View Post
When I had the same problem, I was able to find a great air conditioning repair shop that would work on any system, car, truck, or motorhome. He found it had been repaired before using wrong fitting on the refrigerant line. He had it two days, cost $400, and has lasted over two years now.
I have had the same problem for years and have had a hard time finding a good repair center. Love our dash air in Texas. Can you advise who repaired your a/c hoses. Looks like you got a good deal.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:24 PM   #7
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Dash air issue

Sorry, I’m in Southern Calif., but the AC shop is Auto Air Pros in Murrietta, CA
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:46 AM   #8
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Dash Air Isssue

I just wanted to share something that was given to me when I purchased my 2004 Travel Supreme 38DS04. I also have had issues with my Evan’s Tempcon air dash not blowing out cold enough air even though the couple we bought our coach from just had the air conditioning serviced with the red dye shot into the system to detect a leak.

So even though I personally have not done this procedure, I plan on doing so when I return home from our trip across our great land. Here is what was given to me to share with all of you good people. I will post to this thread and report out my findings when I replace the mixing valve or insert the ball valve as described in this paragraph. Please share back with us if it works for you.
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:57 AM   #9
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Air Dash Issue

Sorry forgot to include the instructions with my original post.
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Old 10-28-2018, 12:54 PM   #10
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I have been using the manual ball valve for the past 5 years. If you want max heat and max cooling this is the way to go as the Evans adjustable valve will fail if it hasn't already.

Ball Valve Positives: Maximum hot air when valve is opened. Maximum cold air when valve is closed.

Ball Valve Negatives: You have to manually open or close the valve. In my case the temp control knob on the dash has no effect on temp because I fully open or close the ball valve.

I typically want max hot or max cold so not being able to adjust temp other than with fan speed is not a problem for me.

When we hang a shower curtain behind the driver/copilot chairs the heater has kept us warm at below freezing outside temps and the air conditioner has kept us cool in temps approaching 100.
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rag_ftw View Post
I have been using the manual ball valve for the past 5 years. If you want max heat and max cooling this is the way to go as the Evans adjustable valve will fail if it hasn't already.

Ball Valve Positives: Maximum hot air when valve is opened. Maximum cold air when valve is closed.

Ball Valve Negatives: You have to manually open or close the valve. In my case the temp control knob on the dash has no effect on temp because I fully open or close the ball valve.

I typically want max hot or max cold so not being able to adjust temp other than with fan speed is not a problem for me.

When we hang a shower curtain behind the driver/copilot chairs the heater has kept us warm at below freezing outside temps and the air conditioner has kept us cool in temps approaching 100.
So Robert, Did you install your ball valve in the exact location as did 007? I’m wanting to do the same as well by installing the brass ball valve as opposed to purchasing a new Evans Tempcon replacement valve @ $150. Call me cheap but I’ve ready where folks have purchased a new valve and then to have it go bad again. I believe a $5.00 valve just makes more sense as long as you realize you have to return the valve position in the winter. Can’t I just simply remove my defective Evans valve and replace with the brass ball valve in the exact same location?

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Old 01-09-2019, 09:30 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bodean56 View Post
So Robert, Did you install your ball valve in the exact location as did 007? ... Can’t I just simply remove my defective Evans valve and replace with the brass ball valve in the exact same location?
Mine is in the hot water line.
I see no reason why you couldn't remove the failed valve and install the brass manual valve.
Hopefully someone with more experience and knowledge of the auto system will chime in here and give us a hand!
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