Community Forums

f15epilot · 10-02-2016, 09:54 PM

I have a Hydro-Hot HHE-200-9E on my coach. Despite the pre-inspection RV technician's statement 'works OK' on the checklist, it does not. These past four weeks, I've done the following:
1) Replaced the nozzle/orifice and electrodes (adjusting them per the service manual)
2) Replaced the fuel filter
3) Cleaned the combustion chamber
4) Topped off the anti-freeze solution, pumping in the fluid from the bottom fill and noting the increase in the reservoir tank
5) Checked pump #3 ops - it is function and moving fluid through the tank
6) Confirmed all the fresh water valves are open and the mixer valve is not locked (set to mid-range)
7) Checked the flame detector--light indeed causes a resistance swing

The system does not have the diesel pre-heat, so only the Diesel and Electric switches. Selecting the electric gives only slightly warmed water, even after leaving on for 24hrs. Flipping the Diesel switch results in:
1) The blower and pumps all come on
2) The exhaust out the pipe is slightly warmed, then cools
3) After a couple minutes, the blower shuts off, leaving the #3 pump running; and the illumination in the 'Diesel' switch goes out
4) There are three LEDs illuminated, all are green: Heating Status, Pump #3, and Diesel-Burner Status. The rest are out

Curious, I pulled the burner module, unplugged the lower connector, flipped the diesel switch, and momentarily re-set the lower connector (turns on the burner/blower sequence). I verified three things: the nozzle sprays quite fine and well, the igniters do work, and the diesel flame looks just like the pictures of the burner in action (which will get your attention). Don't recommend this procedure...won't try it again.

Anyway, I'm stumped.

Something is shutting down the burner after a short time. I'm calling the local RV shop to see if they work on these. Kind of hoped to sort this out before heading to Charlotte... Any ideas?

ByeTheWay · 10-02-2016, 10:02 PM

Roger Berke: RV Hydronic Heater Repair - Home

I believe it is $15 for a 2 year subscription. Best $15 I sent. Besides DIY service, he also sell parts at the best price I have found.

rag_ftw · 10-02-2016, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ByeTheWay

Roger Berke: RV Hydronic Heater Repair - Home

I believe it is $15 for a 2 year subscription. Best $15 I sent. Besides DIY service, he also sell parts at the best price I have found.

Ditto Roger Berke. He helped me find and solve a problem with my electric element.

Dale F · 10-03-2016, 02:49 AM

Out of my league hit but I'll take a shot in the dark. A friend's coach had similar symptoms recently and I watched an RV tech fix it. There was a glass "eye" internally that recognized the feed of fuel and he simply cleaned it. Once cleaned it worked fine. Wish I knew more to share, but as I said its out of my league.

The Driver · 10-03-2016, 03:43 AM

I would spend a lot of time on Roger's forum before I'd deal with a local RV shop about my Hydro-Hot! Very good forum that touches on everything you can think of, and Roger answers questions and provides troubleshooting guides with clear photos.

There are 2 sections to the forum...thought the main one was free, access to the advanced one comes with an order for parts from Roger.

Really excellent resource.

RollinOn · 10-03-2016, 11:25 AM

The flame detector must be clean...could be it's not primed that will let the HH start and run for awhile then shut off...could be the control box $$$$$$... I will be in Charlotte on the 14th. I have a spare control box if you are there to try.

f15epilot · 10-03-2016, 11:57 AM

The flame detector is clean and checked for operation (resistance swing when exposed to light). And the burner will throw a rather impressive (just like the pictures) flame which I didn't let go very long since holding a 'blow torch' in an RV compartment would add even more insanity to that already insane idea. I'm on the Hydronic Heater forum now, and plan to call Roger shortly.

Thanks for that suggestion...looking forward to finding the issue. Unfortunately, will be out of Charlotte on the 10th. Still...if the I suspect the box, might be back in touch.

LEROY1942 · 10-03-2016, 04:02 PM

There is a solid state printed circuit card that controls the operation of the Hydro-Hot equipment. The replacement cost is somewhere around $500.00 but resolves most control issues if the routine maint. issues are maintained. You might contact a Hydro-Hot specialist and inquire. I had a similar issue of the Hydro-Hot turning itself off after a few minutes and the resolution required a p.c. card replacement. Good luck.............

RollinOn · 10-04-2016, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f15epilot

The flame detector is clean and checked for operation (resistance swing when exposed to light). And the burner will throw a rather impressive (just like the pictures) flame which I didn't let go very long since holding a 'blow torch' in an RV compartment would add even more insanity to that already insane idea. I'm on the Hydronic Heater forum now, and plan to call Roger shortly.

Thanks for that suggestion...looking forward to finding the issue. Unfortunately, will be out of Charlotte on the 10th. Still...if the I suspect the box, might be back in touch.

I will be in Florida mid Nov thru the winter in the Orlando area...FYI

Steve Ownby · 10-04-2016, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f15epilot

The flame detector is clean and checked for operation (resistance swing when exposed to light). And the burner will throw a rather impressive (just like the pictures) flame which I didn't let go very long since holding a 'blow torch' in an RV compartment would add even more insanity to that already insane idea. I'm on the Hydronic Heater forum now, and plan to call Roger shortly.

Thanks for that suggestion...looking forward to finding the issue. Unfortunately, will be out of Charlotte on the 10th. Still...if the I suspect the box, might be back in touch.

I'm really disappointed that you don't have a video to share of that troubleshooting step. Did you have a HOLY S__T moment?
You are my new hero!

96 Wideglide · 10-04-2016, 03:46 PM

Did it look like a minature F15 afterburner

?

f15epilot · 10-05-2016, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Did it look like a minature F15 afterburner

?

It was quite reminiscent to a certain propane torch I was using to sweat some copper pipe in my garage. I was holding it in an awkward position which apparently caused the flame to emerge from the sides and around the trigger area precipitously close to my hand. I now had my own Michael Jackson moment going on...in my garage...with my wife's car adjacent to where I was working. My solution...walk out the door to the pool and toss it in. That extinguished the flame quickly. I only wish I'd dropped it closer to the edge since, after the flame went out, I had this propane torch bubbling propane in the pool! Fished it out...shut it off...and eventually, the hair on my arm grew back.

In the case of the Hydro-Hot, I really thought the ignitors would spark first, giving fair warning. Suffice it to say, it is an instantaneous spark->flame!

And I wish I had a video, too...of my facial expression

Going through the isolation steps of the temperature cutoff (thermostats) tomorrow. No flames expected!

djnorton · 10-06-2016, 05:43 PM

Best suggestion: go on Internet search for Aqua-Hot Specialists. There are a lot of updates that need to be done on that unit, and he or she can fix it quickly, efficiently, and economically!

David & Jane Norton
2006 TSS "Sweet Rollin"

justaroamer · 10-07-2016, 08:30 AM

Depending on the age of your unit and controller module yours is most likely the aluminum/silver controller box (no longer available but updated one is). If so and you believe it to be defective, then try this...at your own risk. I have done it with success.

Remove and unplug the controller box.
Remove cover (don't worry no warranty to worry about)

On the circuit board inside the controller, there are 5 ?? micro relay/contactors. With a sharp eye or magnifying glass, observe each of the contactors and look for burnt points or residue around/on each (very hard to see sometimes). Also do the "nose" test on each with a straw...smell any burnt electric odor?
If any signs of pitting or contamination on any of the points, simply buff clean with a small piece of fine emery cloth.
You should also observe any discoloration on the board around diodes, resistors, etc.
these can be replaced as can the contactors if needed if totally non functional.
After observation and any cleaning of the contactors/relays, plug in the uncovered controller (suspend clear of anything). Fire it up on diesel first to see if you have made any improvements if it works, observing contactors... it should also now work on elec. (unless element problem), there is also a contactor/relay for the elec. element inside the 110v elec. connection box.
The preceding is why most those selling replacement parts will trade-in or buy outright your "defective" non-working controller box...they just fix them.
Worth a try, have had success before. Good luck.