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Old 10-09-2019, 07:03 AM   #15
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I rely more on checklists and phone photos now than I ever did in the past.
Wow,
I thought I was the only one
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:18 AM   #16
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Just a thought....if I quit RVing every time I did something stupid, I would’ve sold mine in 2001.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:09 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Airboss68 View Post
Wow,
I thought I was the only one
Think the plane in your signature - insures, you are a Checklist Person
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:08 AM   #18
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Dopey mistakes are no reason to give up on the RV life. I'm a lot younger and have done my share of stoopit things too.

As for winterizing, here's something to consider: Yes, water expands when it freezes. BUT if there is a restriction in one direction, it will expand in another direction to relieve the pressure. That's why you don't have a lid on an ice tray, it has barricades in 5 of the 6 sides.

All I've ever done to winterize is pull the low point drains and open every faucet. That and pull the water heater drain, and I've now replaced most of the system's contents with air. No need to blow, no need to do anything else. Just dump all the tanks and lines and walk away.

This has worked fine with no leaks for multiple years and multiple hard freezes in South Carolina where it DOES get quite cold (the teens are not uncommon). FYI, PEX tubing is capable of handling freezing without breaking, especially if most of it is filled with air to reduce the pressure.

Saves a lot of work and hassle with valves and antifreeze too.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:25 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by RVRon View Post
Just a thought....if I quit RVing every time I did something stupid, I would’ve sold mine in 2001.

Amen!
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Old 10-10-2019, 07:51 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by geordi View Post
Dopey mistakes are no reason to give up on the RV life. I'm a lot younger and have done my share of stoopit things too.

As for winterizing, here's something to consider: Yes, water expands when it freezes. BUT if there is a restriction in one direction, it will expand in another direction to relieve the pressure. That's why you don't have a lid on an ice tray, it has barricades in 5 of the 6 sides.

All I've ever done to winterize is pull the low point drains and open every faucet. That and pull the water heater drain, and I've now replaced most of the system's contents with air. No need to blow, no need to do anything else. Just dump all the tanks and lines and walk away.

This has worked fine with no leaks for multiple years and multiple hard freezes in South Carolina where it DOES get quite cold (the teens are not uncommon). FYI, PEX tubing is capable of handling freezing without breaking, especially if most of it is filled with air to reduce the pressure.

Saves a lot of work and hassle with valves and antifreeze too.
If you don't at least add rv antifreeze to the P traps, you are flirting with disaster. I would not recommend this method. I blow out the lines, plus add antifreeze. I live in Ontario, and certainly would not get away with what you recommend. I froze my toilet valve one year. That was after draining, and blowing out the system with air. After that, I always went the extra step of adding antifreeze as well.
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Old 10-10-2019, 10:02 AM   #21
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If you don't at least add rv antifreeze to the P traps, you are flirting with disaster. I would not recommend this method. I blow out the lines, plus add antifreeze. I live in Ontario, and certainly would not get away with what you recommend. I froze my toilet valve one year. That was after draining, and blowing out the system with air. After that, I always went the extra step of adding antifreeze as well.
The traps are not square, and as I stated before - ice will form but expand equally in any direction until it finds an obstruction. Since there is not a "lid" on either side of the trap, there is plenty of room for the ice to expand upwards on both sides of the trap.

Your toilet valve however may have just been a trapped quantity that could have been released by exercising the valve after the water was turned off. Blowing out the system with air only works between the specific entry and exits that are closest, unless you are actively opening only one point at a time for the air to exit. I open every faucet and drain at the same time and leave them open, so there is plenty of time for them to flow with gravity to the low points.

To each his own. I don't like the idea of adding chemicals to my water supply, if I was going to add anything, it would be alcohol.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:37 PM   #22
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The axiom is: "Stupid hurts." Dog logic then assures us that "If it didn't hurt, it wasn't stupid."

I used to be able to work 10 computers on the bench, each with different issues. I could round-robin them without missing a beat on any. Then I got sick. Now unless I staple a note to my forehead, I can't remember why I left the room. My doctor says it's a medical thing related to fibral myalgia. I lose my train of thought over the very short term (beyond 10 minutes I'm ok, but which pocket I just put my glasses in is often a mystery -- wait, they're on my head!) and I have a hard time recounting multiple events in proper sequence. So I make notes and I make lists. But I can't remember where I left them . . . .
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:43 PM   #23
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rodekyll said:

"I used to be able to work 10 computers on the bench, each with different issues. I could round-robin them without missing a beat on any."

Did you own or work at a computer store?
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Old 10-10-2019, 01:18 PM   #24
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rodekyll said:

"I used to be able to work 10 computers on the bench, each with different issues. I could round-robin them without missing a beat on any."

Did you own or work at a computer store?
I owned and operated a tech support business, Media Rare Computers, in Sitka for 25 years. That's another story.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:26 PM   #25
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Ron, I finally found my copy of the water valve definitions that Lou posted last fall:

# 1 and #2 are the hot and cold water low point drains. A good way to recognize the difference is the hot water tubing has red markings and the cold water tubing has black markings from the manufacturer (at least it is on my rig). Note on #3 there are two valves, the lower one is the fresh water tank drain and the upper valve is to align the flow from the fresh water tank to the flexible tube for winterizing the system with the pink stuff.

Hope this helps!
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:59 PM   #26
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Ron, I finally found my copy of the water valve definitions that Lou posted last fall:

# 1 and #2 are the hot and cold water low point drains. A good way to recognize the difference is the hot water tubing has red markings and the cold water tubing has black markings from the manufacturer (at least it is on my rig). Note on #3 there are two valves, the lower one is the fresh water tank drain and the upper valve is to align the flow from the fresh water tank to the flexible tube for winterizing the system with the pink stuff.

Hope this helps!
Robert ..
It does.. although I don't have the colored markings...
What about the hot water heater bypass.. Oh you probably have aqua hot huh?
Thanks for the reply...
Ron
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Old 10-11-2019, 08:33 PM   #27
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Yessir, I have Aqua-Hot.

I don't have the color markings on my lines either.

File that definition somewhere you can find it for next year. Hopefully it won't take you three days like it did me!
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Old 10-14-2019, 08:47 AM   #28
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Robert ..
It does.. although I don't have the colored markings...
What about the hot water heater bypass.. Oh you probably have aqua hot huh?
Thanks for the reply...
Ron
Ron,

Here is a pic of the Water Heater Inlet and Bypass in the "normal" lineup as viewed through the small door in the basement compartment. Hope this helps.
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