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Old 02-11-2018, 04:07 PM   #15
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Busskipper,


One thing I did to help get over the loss of the drawer was to lower the fridge as much as possible and then made a cabinet above it. Although not seen in the attached pic, I cut down the old drawer front and hinged it on the bottom for access into the cabinet. The opening is only about 6-7" high, but does provide plenty of storage space.

On my rig all the flexible plumbing for the kitchen sink runs under the fridge so in order to maximize the space I used angle iron to support the plywood base. I also relocated the icemaker solenoid valve from inside the fridge to the back to make winterizing the unit easier.

Similar to Ron, I removed the passenger's seat and with the fridge doors off I was able to carry it through the door with the help of a friend. It is surprisingly light with the doors off. Good luck and keep us inform of your progress.
Getting closer - Purchased a brand New Samsung still in the box for $600.00 (Craiglist) so I'm committed.

I will likely use your Model/Idea with the Angle iron and 1/4" plate, will it really need to be more than just 3" wide? I have access to a welder so it would be easy to make the to size needed, just put a leg at the front and so as to be able to have as big as possible shelf on top.

Wife will require it as much space as possible.

Did you just use the drawer front and resize then move it up to the top? Then put hinge on the top to lift up for shelf storage, what did you use to keep it open? special hinge? As I've got the front Right/Passenger side TV - will that be in the way? if so I guess I'll update the TV at the same time, just more fun.

This site is Great - you all make it almost sound like FUN. ....

I'll be back with more questions over the next 3-4 months,

Busskipper
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:05 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
Getting closer - Purchased a brand New Samsung still in the box for $600.00 (Craiglist) so I'm committed.

Great deal there and the changeover is well worth the effort.

I will likely use your Model/Idea with the Angle iron and 1/4" plate, will it really need to be more than just 3" wide? I have access to a welder so it would be easy to make the to size needed, just put a leg at the front and so as to be able to have as big as possible shelf on top. Wife will require it as much space as possible.

I used 3/4" plywood,but a 1/4" plate should be more than sufficient to gain another 1/2" at the top. If I understand correctly, you are thinking two plates on each side about 3" wide to support the fridge. If so, the 3" width is probably sufficient since the four wheels are in the corners.

Did you just use the drawer front and resize then move it up to the top? Then put hinge on the top to lift up for shelf storage, what did you use to keep it open? special hinge? As I've got the front Right/Passenger side TV - will that be in the way? if so I guess I'll update the TV at the same time, just more fun.

As described, I used the old drawer front, cut it down and then cut an angle to match the other three sides. It worked out nicely with the existing handle location. I hinged it on the top with the same style hinges used in all the other cabinets. I don't recall the hinge manufacturer or where I purchased them, but may have some info on the RV. It is up in storage now in NH, but I'll check next time we go up there. My TV is in the middle and I changed it out several years ago to a flat screen so it wasn't a problem.

Also, what style door do you have? TS installed some that are rectangles and some with a taper on the hinge side towards the top. Mine is the rectangle and I needed just about every inch of the opening to pass the fridge through. The doors with the taper may be a bit tighter, but I think I have read others were able to get the fridge through the opening. Maybe someone will chime it on that if it is an issue for you.

This site is Great - you all make it almost sound like FUN. ....
I'll be back with more questions over the next 3-4 months,

To be honest, I do find it fun doing these kinds of projects. In a couple of months we'll should be back on the RV and then I be able to provide more info and additional pics if needed.

Busskipper
I hope this helps and good luck with the mod.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:23 AM   #17
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Also, what style door do you have? TS installed some that are rectangles and some with a taper on the hinge side towards the top. Mine is the rectangle and I needed just about every inch of the opening to pass the fridge through. The doors with the taper may be a bit tighter, but I think I have read others were able to get the fridge through the opening. Maybe someone will chime it on that if it is an issue for you.

I've got the tapper on the top - so .........might need to remove the door? and the Seat?

Nervous about the door, as it took so much to get it to seal and is really quiet now.

As they say let the games begin,

..
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
Also, what style door do you have? TS installed some that are rectangles and some with a taper on the hinge side towards the top. Mine is the rectangle and I needed just about every inch of the opening to pass the fridge through. The doors with the taper may be a bit tighter, but I think I have read others were able to get the fridge through the opening. Maybe someone will chime it on that if it is an issue for you.

I've got the tapper on the top - so .........might need to remove the door? and the Seat?

Nervous about the door, as it took so much to get it to seal and is really quiet now.

As they say let the games begin,

..
I don't see a need to remove the door and do not believe that would buy you any more clearance. Once you remove/disconnect the strut at the top, the door swings wide out of the way. I did remove the latch from the door frame on the opposite side. I believe the problem is the taper of the opening requires you to bring the fridge in at a lower angle and you may run into the dash where it sticks out by the radio/heater controls before you can lift it up vertically. Mine came it almost vertical (very slight angle) from the start so I was able to stand it up where the passenger's seat normally sits. Definitely need to remove the seat, but it is only held in with four bolts and one power cable. The seat was surprisingly heavy, but with the slides out I was able to slide it over towards the couch. Other than carrying the new fridge in, I was able to do everything else myself.

If the door removal is required, I think I would go with removing the large window over the couch on the driver's side first. Although I'm pretty sure I read on this forum where someone with the tapered door was able to get the fridge in that opening so I'm sure we'll hear with their experience once they read this thread.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by sailor_lou View Post
I don't see a need to remove the door and do not believe that would buy you any more clearance. Once you remove/disconnect the strut at the top, the door swings wide out of the way. I did remove the latch from the door frame on the opposite side. I believe the problem is the taper of the opening requires you to bring the fridge in at a lower angle and you may run into the dash where it sticks out by the radio/heater controls before you can lift it up vertically. Mine came it almost vertical (very slight angle) from the start so I was able to stand it up where the passenger's seat normally sits. Definitely need to remove the seat, but it is only held in with four bolts and one power cable. The seat was surprisingly heavy, but with the slides out I was able to slide it over towards the couch. Other than carrying the new fridge in, I was able to do everything else myself.

If the door removal is required, I think I would go with removing the large window over the couch on the driver's side first. Although I'm pretty sure I read on this forum where someone with the tapered door was able to get the fridge in that opening so I'm sure we'll hear with their experience once they read this thread.
Hi Guys..
I Had to take my door off.. I have an 04 with a tapered door.. There appeared no way it would go in any other way.. Then the Passenger seat.. Then man handle it through the opening.. It wa tight but fit...
Back in Arizona this winter and the Samsung is working perfectly... Best upgrade we have done.. Bit of minor carpentry but my brother is good at that and all is well..
Good Luck...
Ron
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:53 AM   #20
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Hi Guys..
I Had to take my door off.. I have an 04 with a tapered door.. There appeared no way it would go in any other way.. Then the Passenger seat.. Then man handle it through the opening.. It wa tight but fit...
Back in Arizona this winter and the Samsung is working perfectly... Best upgrade we have done.. Bit of minor carpentry but my brother is good at that and all is well..
Good Luck...
Ron
Looking to bring this back to life - just finished building and selling a house so I should start to have some time to get this done now.

Have disassembled the No Cold and is ready to be removed.

Now to get the Capt's chair out and the refrig in.

Question - In the PDF is/are the extension necessary on the Samsung refrigerator? Speaking of the foot spots that protrude out into the living space?

Thanks,
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:34 AM   #21
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Looking to bring this back to life - just finished building and selling a house so I should start to have some time to get this done now.

Have disassembled the No Cold and is ready to be removed.

Now to get the Capt's chair out and the refrig in.

Question - In the PDF is/are the extension necessary on the Samsung refrigerator? Speaking of the foot spots that protrude out into the living space?

Thanks,
Removed the No Cold - Cut it up to haul out easily



- Discovered the emergency window access is larger and looks like it would be EASY - - - -

Today will work on the platform - looking like I'll just reuse the 1/2" ply that is there.

Cut out the center and pryed it loose - will build a few supports and set up to roll the new unit in.



More fun to come,
-
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:55 AM   #22
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Good to see the progress, keep up the good work. To answer your earlier question, no you do not need the two extensions (leveling feet) that stick out the front of the fridge. I unbolted the brackets and turned them around so the leveling feet were almost under the fridge. I then replaced the leveling feet with bolts and used the bolts to secure the front of the fridge to the angle I installed under the platform.


Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.
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Old 07-08-2018, 07:18 AM   #23
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Good to see the progress, keep up the good work. To answer your earlier question, no you do not need the two extensions (leveling feet) that stick out the front of the fridge. I unbolted the brackets and turned them around so the leveling feet were almost under the fridge. I then replaced the leveling feet with bolts and used the bolts to secure the front of the fridge to the angle I installed under the platform.


Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.
Agree - once in and Level - it will be bolted/lagged in place, if it goes before me - time for a new Coach -

Thanks to the Crew for all the Positive Encouragement. - - -
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:14 PM   #24
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"Removed the No-Cold" is an understatement! Looks like it fell victim to a sawzall!!!

If you still have the cooling fans and the thermostat that controls them I would be interested. Wanting to add some additional fans to mine. I'm still holding out with the no-cold.

Also the door panels, circuit board, emergency shut-down box, door hinges, etc can be sold here or on Craig's list.

Good luck with the install. All the others sure look nice once they are installed!
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Old 07-17-2018, 11:08 AM   #25
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What I did to keep the doors closed, make a shepherds hook out of PVC3/4 inch pipe. About 3 feet long, heat (oven!) bend into hook to fit over the two doors handles, long end slides down into freezer box. While PVC is hot flatten the hook area, to go thru the handles. Paint gray to match, soft Velcro in areas that touch the metal.
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