I posted this years ago, hope it helps: The bulbs I used for the pucks are 12x 5050 SMD, which is the most one can pack on a disk that will fit the fixture. Some are selling replacements that have only 6 or 9 chips. Of course 12 = more light. The 5050 LEDs are brighter than the 3528 LEDs that many are using. Yes, they dim.
I replaced every bulb in my coach (running lights/tail aready LED). My coach has the intellitec switching system with dimmers and all the LED's dim just as the halogens did. Buying in lots of 100, the puck replacements were $2.53 ea. including shipping. Be sure you get non polarized ones. I used the vendor AprilTang on DHgate. Good people.
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FYI about LEDs.
SMD refers to Surface Mounted Device or Diode.
5050 refers to size of the diode 5.0mm x 5.0mm and respectfully,
3528 refers to 3.5mm x 2.8mm.
The 5050 emits about 3 times the light as the 3528 led.
Polarized means negative to negative and positive to positive connections required to work the light.
Non polarized means can be cross wired and will work either way.
Non polarized is accomplished by the addition of a bridge recifier usually mounted on the back of the board. Some rectifiers are larger than others and may obstruct when mounting in puck lights. The fixture can be removed and re-wired to correct polarity.
Warm white Leds are about 4500 kelvins, where bright whites are about 6500k. Natural white is in the middle, but harder to find. Watch out for the bright whites, brighter light, but bluish light and "cold". The 10w halogens like those found in many RV lights are around 3200K.
The G4 replacements for puck lights are side pins and the bulb cannot be turned around to correct polarity issues as one can with other types of bi-pin bulbs.
Bayonet base leds are polarized, but the bulb fits only one way (1157 double contact) or makes no difference in 1141 single contact.
Most LEDs are dimmable.
Hope this is of use to those converting to LEDs.
I recommend it.
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