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Old 09-22-2018, 06:26 AM   #1
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2018 and 2019 owners

How is the sanicon system working? Is it a better system than the standard dump system? Any particular issues that keep arising? Can system hose be added to for a longer than normal run? I've been places that require you to move just to be able to reach the sewer dump or have 35+ feet of hose if you want to stay hooked up. With a washer and dryer, can you keep the hose hooked up and open for the washer to drain when in use or is that when you have to hook up the standard sewer hose?
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:22 AM   #2
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I never thought I would say this and will be eating my words with this post.

We did a short shakedown cruse where I used both, the sanicon and the slinky to see which I would prefer.

Slinky was right on the ground when leveled and connected, not much of a downward drop. The slinky still has to be walked to drain. A hassle to store extra hose. It will not be my connection of choice.

Sanicon hose is easy to store, I have installed the disconnects on the head and will also install a set somewhere in the middle of the hose using only part of the hose most of the time.. The hose will reach to either end of the MH now so it's a little long for most hookups. If I need to extend it more, I have a 20 ft section of 3/4 in garden hose in my sewer box that will fit the cap of the Sanicon hose. That gives me 41 foot with very little storage space used.

The washer dump on every 3 load will take the slinky, the sanicon re-plumbed, or go out and dump the gray every 3rd load. I still haven't figured out which will work best for us. Look forward to hearing others solutions.
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:40 AM   #3
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We have now been on the road for about 7,000 miles at this point and new to the SaniCon (or whatever it is called) system on this 19 Cornerstone. This is the first coach that I have had that has this.... always slinky before. Was not sure how I would like this system, and there are some fixable irritants, but overall, we like it and use it exclusively so far.

I was advised to always have all the hose laid out... no kinks and no foldbacks. I have followed that recommendation. Consequently, have more hose on the ground than I need all the time. I found once that I could leave the gray valve open and it drained but several other times, I tried that and it did not drain. Like Chuck, every 3 or 4 washer loads needs a quick run outside to drain and turn on the macerator.

What I dislike the most is the hassle of draining the hose as the water wants to stay in the pipe and not drain due to air locks when you are trying to stow and depart for a new location. It takes too long to "walk it out" and half the time, the plastic sewer piece has to be pointed up so that air can enter, so the gray drains on the ground. So, I bought the camlock fittings before I left on this big trip but never got around to installing, and that is going to be my first modification when I get home. Where I will install the cam-lock is up near where it comes out of the storage compartment so I can break the suction/vacuum up near the coach and drain the whole hose effortlessly. Exactly where is not yet determined, but probably a couple feet beyond the hatch.

The second thing I dont like about it is that if you come out the main compartment door, then the flimsy plastic door is open all the time and subject to damage either through flapping or someone (me) banging into it ..... and given that mine is painted in 4 colors of paint, repairing it will be a $500 job at some paint shop.... so that is going to have to change. I have used the removable plate in the bottom of the compartment to let the hose down through the compartment and out in front of the drive tires twice so that I can lock the plastc door. Nice in that you can then close the plastic compartment door..... bad in that it is a pain in the butt to feed the whole hose down through that opening and worse, bringing it back up through that hole and then stuffing it into the storage compartment. It is mandatory to get the hose to drain all the water as it will not stuff back into its compartment if the hose is not flacid. So............... there will be a cam-lock fitting installed in the hose that is long enough to get to easily when I put the hose down through the hatch hole to disconnect and re-connect but short enough that it is close to the coach and probably not mid-hose like some others have thought about.... just long enough that I can get to it easily when it is down near the drive tires. I need to protect that plastic door so something needs to be done.

I have not tried the slinky system yet, however, my impression is that I am not going to be willing to get down on the ground to make the connection except in an emergency.

Finally, I like the fact that the hose is covered with cloth, but it sure gets filthy if parked on a sand site and it gets wet from rain, or worse,, any sort of muddy site. Yuk!! Makes you want to stay put until the hose dries out completely before trying to restuff it in its compartment after shaking all the sand or dried mud off of the hose cover.

Gary
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:20 AM   #4
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I have only used mine on one trip. The way I plumbed it the gray tank can gravity drain. So far I love the sanicon turbo. Also if anyone wants to replumb the sanicon to gravity drain I have a plumbing diagram with all fittings and pipe measurements listed.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:12 AM   #5
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Thanks for the offer Tom and I will keep it in mind. I am going to try the factory setup to see how much of a hassle it is, but I know me and forgetting to open the gray tank.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom View Post
I have only used mine on one trip. The way I plumbed it the gray tank can gravity drain. So far I love the sanicon turbo. Also if anyone wants to replumb the sanicon to gravity drain I have a plumbing diagram with all fittings and pipe measurements listed.
I've used both and find the slinky to be easier to use - put a clear 90 and 8 inch ext to hook the slinky to the drain port -

keep hoses in a bin below - which holds a RhinoFLEX 3, 10 & 15 ft hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tom do you have a pic of what you set up? i mite use it more if it was not a such pain
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:35 AM   #7
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Rick loves the Sanicon. Fortunately I haven't had to learn how to use it yet. He likes it well enough not to complain when he needs to dump the gray after I run the washing machine. For us, it's closer to every two loads because I always do an extra rinse and, unless we are dry camping, we're not conservative water users. He does not leave the hose out but puts it back after every use. Sounds like that might help a little when it comes to protecting that little plastic door. He said he has been looking for a metal replacement - polished stainless or chrome - but will at least be replacing that latch after we get home. He liked your idea Chuck of being able to use just part of the hose. He'll probably be reaching out to you for more info once we return.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:42 AM   #8
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There is a screw cover inside Sanicon storage hatch to run Sanicon hose thru and under unit so you can close that small compartment door. Looks like to same.white screw cover that you will find in UDC's of 5th wheels. 4" threaded cap.
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Old 09-22-2018, 11:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike625 View Post
I've used both and find the slinky to be easier to use - put a clear 90 and 8 inch ext to hook the slinky to the drain port -

keep hoses in a bin below - which holds a RhinoFLEX 3, 10 & 15 ft hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tom do you have a pic of what you set up? i mite use it more if it was not a such pain
I have a 2015,I used a plumbing diagram from this 2018.
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Old 09-22-2018, 11:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary.Jones View Post
We have now been on the road for about 7,000 miles at this point and new to the SaniCon (or whatever it is called) system on this 19 Cornerstone. This is the first coach that I have had that has this.... always slinky before. Was not sure how I would like this system, and there are some fixable irritants, but overall, we like it and use it exclusively so far.

I was advised to always have all the hose laid out... no kinks and no foldbacks. I have followed that recommendation. Consequently, have more hose on the ground than I need all the time. I found once that I could leave the gray valve open and it drained but several other times, I tried that and it did not drain. Like Chuck, every 3 or 4 washer loads needs a quick run outside to drain and turn on the macerator.

What I dislike the most is the hassle of draining the hose as the water wants to stay in the pipe and not drain due to air locks when you are trying to stow and depart for a new location. It takes too long to "walk it out" and half the time, the plastic sewer piece has to be pointed up so that air can enter, so the gray drains on the ground. So, I bought the camlock fittings before I left on this big trip but never got around to installing, and that is going to be my first modification when I get home. Where I will install the cam-lock is up near where it comes out of the storage compartment so I can break the suction/vacuum up near the coach and drain the whole hose effortlessly. Exactly where is not yet determined, but probably a couple feet beyond the hatch.

The second thing I dont like about it is that if you come out the main compartment door, then the flimsy plastic door is open all the time and subject to damage either through flapping or someone (me) banging into it ..... and given that mine is painted in 4 colors of paint, repairing it will be a $500 job at some paint shop.... so that is going to have to change. I have used the removable plate in the bottom of the compartment to let the hose down through the compartment and out in front of the drive tires twice so that I can lock the plastc door. Nice in that you can then close the plastic compartment door..... bad in that it is a pain in the butt to feed the whole hose down through that opening and worse, bringing it back up through that hole and then stuffing it into the storage compartment. It is mandatory to get the hose to drain all the water as it will not stuff back into its compartment if the hose is not flacid. So............... there will be a cam-lock fitting installed in the hose that is long enough to get to easily when I put the hose down through the hatch hole to disconnect and re-connect but short enough that it is close to the coach and probably not mid-hose like some others have thought about.... just long enough that I can get to it easily when it is down near the drive tires. I need to protect that plastic door so something needs to be done.

I have not tried the slinky system yet, however, my impression is that I am not going to be willing to get down on the ground to make the connection except in an emergency.

Finally, I like the fact that the hose is covered with cloth, but it sure gets filthy if parked on a sand site and it gets wet from rain, or worse,, any sort of muddy site. Yuk!! Makes you want to stay put until the hose dries out completely before trying to restuff it in its compartment after shaking all the sand or dried mud off of the hose cover.

Gary
Please post cam lock when you get to that modification. I assume you implied you will cut the hose and splice in a disconnect that allows you easier access to macerator hose?
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdgoldie View Post
He liked your idea Chuck of being able to use just part of the hose. He'll probably be reaching out to you for more info once we return.
Tractor Supply not far from you. I have the part numbers at the MH. Glad to pass them on to him. I also use the hatch at the bottom of the compartment to drop the hose through instead of leaving the door open. I put the quick disconnects on the hose end already making it easier to drop the hose through the hatch and retrieve it. Learned both of those ideas here on the forum.
I'll be using the same connections for the center of the hose. The male cam lock is not shown.
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom View Post
I have only used mine on one trip. The way I plumbed it the gray tank can gravity drain. So far I love the sanicon turbo. Also if anyone wants to replumb the sanicon to gravity drain I have a plumbing diagram with all fittings and pipe measurements listed.
Flatow can you post your design and material listm
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:47 PM   #13
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Our '17 Apsire is our second sanicon motorhome, we also had a monaco with it as well as the techma toilet since 2010.

I love love love the sanicon!
The turbo model is about 4x faster than the one in the monaco was.

Roughly halftimers averaged from 2010 to 2018, I've had to touch something that has touched bodily waste ever twice, both time rebuilding the sanicon pump in the monaco.

I pull the hose out, unscrew the little cap, stick it in the hole, no glove, a shot of hand sanitizer, done.
I hit the button every few days (we leave the gray valve open, but it doesn't gravity drain fast. The monaco was the same way and it didn't have the up and over plumbing. The bypass is just a tiny hole is all)

Leaving, I pump it dry, walk the hose back (leaving the gray dump vale open lets air in and makes this easy.) cap it, stuff it back in the hole and close the door, a squirt of santizer, don.

I've never broken the little door (by slamming the big bay door into it) and only lost the latch once (replaced under warrantee.)

We only use the midbath for vertically ejected liquids. No poop, no paper, anything solid gets processed by the Techma, no solids in our black tank ever.

Stinky slinkies are almost as gross as blue-boys. I'll have nothing to do with them ever.
Our first RV, a 2000 Fleetwood, used a slinkie, Never ever ever again.
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Old 09-22-2018, 01:29 PM   #14
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Linda found the part numbers Quick coupler part C https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...part-c-3606067


Quick Coupler Part E https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...part-e-3606075


2 inch hose clamp for each connection.
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