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Old 11-18-2018, 02:39 PM   #1
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Another porposing saga

I did not want to further hijack other threads. I have had issues with our coach porpoising over bridge expansion joints including the suspension vanity. Complaining to sparkman and Entegra with no help ( while under warranty ) mostly just finger-pointing either way and the classic could not duplicate. I was very excited when I read about raising the static pressure and how it helped others. I am happy to report I made it through Miami/Homestead which were the worst porpoising bridges I have driven. I raised my pressure In the porpoising was at least 90% better and no banging of the suspension. To anyone who is considering it I highly advise it.
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Old 11-18-2018, 05:30 PM   #2
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Tom, really glad to hear that. I am very fortunate that NIRVC was already aware of that situation (I was not) and already had my governor adjusted before delivery. Now I know why. Thanks for the report.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:54 PM   #3
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Chuck I did not know if it was my hopeful imagination but I found my self creeping to over 80 mph when not on cruise control.After making it through Miami/homestead with no excess porposing or bottoming I am truly thankful for the information I have learned on this forum,the handling was night and day difference,I really did not want to believe it.
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:31 AM   #4
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Tom,
My Anthem held 135 psi and I didn't have a proposing problem, just the banging from the bad shock. Changing the shocks solved that problem. The Cornerstone, I was told by NIRVC, were set to low from the factory and they were setting them up to 140-145 psi. It must work...it rode beautiful coming home. After hearing other experiences such as yours, I am a believer of boosted air pressure on the suspension and learned something new.

My only other test was Port Charlotte traffic on US 41 testing the CMS. I had no dipping in the front end while making down town traffic stops. The CMS was quite as well.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:55 PM   #5
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Tom,

Our porposing ended when they changed out the shocks to the newer Billsteins. No more issues.

It sounds like either changing the pressure or changing the shocks may be the solution for the porposing.
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Old 11-19-2018, 09:28 PM   #6
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Tom,

Our porposing ended when they changed out the shocks to the newer Billsteins. No more issues.

It sounds like either changing the pressure or changing the shocks may be the solution for the porposing.
We changed our shocks to koni shocks to start it was better but not great. Raising the air pressure seems to be an addative touch.
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:37 AM   #7
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Fla tom, I'm curious to your year and model. I have changed shocks, but still have a pronounced rebounding.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:28 AM   #8
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Tim, I don't mean to speak for Tom, but I have given a lot of though to this post.

When many of us had suspension problems going back to 2014, Tom's is a 15 Cornerstone .Many of us have been to Spartan, Entegra, and outside front end shops. (me for 2 years) With all kinds of suspension fixes, shocks, which I know were under rated on my previous coach, but none of the shops have ever mentioned adjusting the air governor to get air pressure to the suspension system....which make sense. It took NIRVC that brought it to my attention and this forum to bring to light. Something so simple none of the professional shops including the chassis manufacture have ever mentioned a thing about air pressure except for leaks. JME.
I am still amazed by a dealer that knew the situation, had it corrected before there was ever a problem and before I ever saw the coach. My previous dealer (same as Tom's) would still be looking for where the adjustment is.

It is a simple DIY adjustment that Tom did, maybe Tom will post the photos of how it is done.
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:03 AM   #9
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Tim, I don't mean to speak for Tom, but I have given a lot of though to this post.

It is a simple DIY adjustment that Tom did, maybe Tom will post the photos of how it is done.
That would be great !
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:39 AM   #10
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You lost me .could you expand on static pressure. Thanks
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:02 AM   #11
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I would love to see how to adjust the air govenor. It will have to wait for our return to SWFL as its too darn cold in NY to be outside wrenching. Hopefully Tom, or others will post how to make adjustment.
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:31 AM   #12
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I can help a little bit if someone that has done the adjustment can explain where the screw is. The valve on mine is located on the back wall of the fuel filter compartment. The black cap at the top is the Schrader valve where an air gauge would be used to check the pressure adjustment. At the bottom of the valve looks to be a black plastic thumb knob that I am guessing would be the adjustment knob. If someone can confirm that, here is the photo to identify the valve.

NIRVC had mine adjusted upon delivery to 145 psi, but after popping off, the rear is at 143 psi and the front 135 psi
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brobox View Post
I can help a little bit if someone that has done the adjustment can explain where the screw is. The valve on mine is located on the back wall of the fuel filter compartment. The black cap at the top is the Schrader valve where an air gauge would be used to check the pressure adjustment. At the bottom of the valve looks to be a black plastic thumb knob that I am guessing would be the adjustment knob. If someone can confirm that, here is the photo to identify the valve.

NIRVC had mine adjusted upon delivery to 145 psi, but after popping off, the rear is at 143 psi and the front 135 psi

If you unscrew that little black cover at the bottom of the govenor you will find a threaded rod with a slot on the top (the black cap threads on this rod). There is a keeper nut that I believe is 7/16 and if you loosen that nut, you can turn the threaded rod with a straight screw driver. Clockwise increases the pressure and counter clockwise decreases pressure. Suggest you only adjust 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and check pressure again. Google it. Its not difficult.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:30 AM   #14
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UPDATE from Fla Tom.

I am posting the pictures for Tom of his Classic for the valve and location. On his Classic he said it was easier to get to than the new model. Also the adjustment screw cover is different, but this will show what Jeanne was explaining for the adjustment rod
The new model might be easier to remove the valve, it's only two bolts, they easy to get to.
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