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hogdriver · 06-19-2013, 09:59 PM

I removed the red anti scald thingie and it sort of works. What you must do when showering is continually open the hot water shower control to maintain an acceptable temperature. My 10 year old Monaco with the Atwood heater work flawlessly. Perhaps modern technology is not as advanced as it is reported.

Sky_Boss · 06-20-2013, 05:53 AM

Be a little careful when tinkering with the shower including removal of the scalding protection. I wouldn't do that if it was me but each to there own.

One other thought. In S&B on-demand hot water there is an issue with "slugging". That is when the HWH doesn't detect enough demand for hot water. The reduced flow then causes the HWH to shut down. When that happens you get slugged with cold water.

One of the causes of this is that the hot water is set too high (when that is adjustable) and the user reduces the demand for water at the faucet. Homes that use restrictive shower heads are more prone to slugging. If one is using a shower head that is even more restrictive than a S&B one...well...you get the drift. There are on-demand systems that simply say it will raise the input water temp X degrees. So, if it says it will raise water 30*, the maximum temp is regulated by the temp of the input water. Depending on the water source and distance from that source to the faucet this could mean the user will have to make an adjustment at the faucet as water from a stable temp source finally reaches the faucet. As an example, if you are using city water and the exposed hose is hot because of the sun/outside temps, you will need to increase the hot water demand after the cooler water of the CG water system gets to you at the shower. The opposite would be true if outside temps are much cooler than the water source.

Now, I don't know that this is directly related to the initial problem but I don't know it isn't part of the problem either. I just toss it out as something that might play a part in it all.

hogdriver · 06-21-2013, 06:14 AM

Entegra and Aqua Hot told me to remove the Antiscald device if I could not keep the shower warm in the shower control because the way the Aqua hot has limits on temperature and it will "fight" with the shower limiter. They said this was a stopgap solution to the problem.

Sky_Boss · 06-21-2013, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdriver

Entegra and Aqua Hot told me to remove the Antiscald device if I could not keep the shower warm in the shower control because the way the Aqua hot has limits on temperature and it will "fight" with the shower limiter. They said this was a stopgap solution to the problem.

2 points...

1. If the Aqua Hot has a built in temp control to avoid scalding...cool. The Antiscald device would just be redundant.

2. It certainly sounds like the reduced flow I mentioned in my previous post could be a root issue...but...I'm just working off of anecdotal evidence based on applying S&B set ups I have seen work badly and in a similar manner as what ya'll are running into.

Dr4Film · 06-22-2013, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

2 points...

1. If the Aqua Hot has a built in temp control to avoid scalding...cool. The Antiscald device would just be redundant.

2. It certainly sounds like the reduced flow I mentioned in my previous post could be a root issue...but...I'm just working off of anecdotal evidence based on applying S&B set ups I have seen work badly and in a similar manner as what ya'll are running into.

I am not an Aqua-Hot expert, Roger Berke is the Aqua-Hot Guru and runs the Hydronic Heating forum which is a MUST for anyone who owns an Aqua-Hot unit.

Forum Rv Hydronic Heater Repair - Welcome

I believe that Aqua-Hot uses a fixed "mixing" valve to regulate the temperature of the hot water. Basically, it uses COLD water to mix with the HOT water coming from the Aqua-Hot unit. It should be set to a temperature of about 120F I think.

I have mine set a little higher because I like to have really hot water plus I can do my owning additional mixing at the faucet.

BUT, remember that the temperature of the cold water varies from season to season and location to location and day to night. Therefore, the mixing valve temperature can vary somewhat with the temperature of the cold water.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

edcsteve · 06-12-2017, 06:26 PM

Aqua-Hot 400D
I have owned my 2017 Aspire for 2 weeks and it has the diesel hot water and it does exactly what is described in the post, water starts out hot then goes tepid and then warm again. I have not yet had the dealer work on it but am not encouraged so far by what I read. I love my coach and really hope we can resolve this.

Matt D · 06-12-2017, 07:12 PM

Couple of things that work for me, first off run the floor loop for a few minutes which activates the pump serving double duty in the 400D as a "stir" pump.

Additionally, I have a flow restricting valve at the shower head. I can choke the flow down to say 3/4 of full flow and the temperature is really hot.

Keep in mind I have a Aquajet ARV pump and it was moving too much water for the AH to keep up with.

-Matt

vsayler · 06-13-2017, 07:37 AM

In my last coach I had the 400D aqua hot unit and had a similar problem.

I was staying near the factory and went by to get my regular service parts. (This was about 1 year ago). While there and talking to the tech he told me they had a new thermosister (I am sure that is the wrong word, but the part that tells the burner to crank up) that was set to turn on the burner at a higher temperature.

I had that installed in my unit and it quit doing the hot cool hot change.

I think the lack of a stirring pump is a big issue.

Van

coachmanrvr · 06-14-2017, 05:54 PM

We run the floor heat for about 5 min prior to the first shower. This circulates the boiler fluid and lights the propane burner so it is running prior to getting in the shower. Works great. Never had a cold shower since we figured this out...anyone with a 375LP should have this as a note on the thermostat behind the toilet.

edcsteve · 06-14-2017, 10:41 PM

Thank you, I will turn it on tonight and give it a try.
Steve
steve@stevesenger.com

jestal · 06-25-2017, 03:54 PM

If the addition of a stir pump would help it would be relatively easy to add one assuming the 375LP has an expansion tank and a tank drain like the 450D

Put a tee in the expansion tank plastic line at the top of the Aquahot unit where the fitting exits the unit. Put an appropriate barbed hose nipple in the tank drain fitting. Obtain a circulation pump....there must be a lot of "extra" pumps lying around considering all the replacements. Connect the tee to the tank drain fitting with the pump in the line with hose. Wiring could be as simple as a switch to turn the new pump on when wanted or use an existing control signal and relay to run the pump as desired.

This would effectively add the "stir" pump function using existing fittings on the Aquahot without having to modify the unit (by drilling holes or anything...) and the loop could be removed when desired with no trace.

Just a wild idea as I have never even looked at an Aquahot unit......so it may turn into a science project.