Bad coolant sensor

[johnnyreno]

Any body ever have to replace the coolant sensoer on their entegra. after getting spn 111 fmi 18 code thx. Coavch has been sitting 4 months it was a gallon low b4 doing checks prior to departure there is no leaks. added final charge almost 1 gallon until it came up to the reservoir window. I am thinking its gummed up from sitting

[waterboy10]

Most likely you have a coolant leak if you added a full gallon of final charge. Best to get it pressure tested and repaired. We replaced the entire coolant package and about 3,000 miles later did the get cooler. Coach traded with 24,000 miles. The leak is quite hard to find.

[brobox]

I second what John said about pressure testing if you lost a gallon of coolant sitting for 4 months. I just found my slow leak, a new radiator is being shipped. I only used a gallon in 9,000 miles and the leak didn't show up until it was pressure tested.

[johnnyreno]

I didn't check it b4 parking it I ran it to reno I will see if its lost any in the 300 or so miles we have acummins dealer 20 minutes here in sparks if needed

[Sunsetranch]

We just checked ours 1/4-1/3 gallon down in 2000 miles.
There must be an amount that would be considered normal use?
Does anyone know how much loss that would be over how many miles that is normal?

[brobox]

Way too much Doug. It is a sealed unit and there should be no coolant loss.

I tighten up hose clamps and got mine down to a pint in 500 mile, turns out to be a bad radiator with a small hole. Small holes in radiators tend to get larger.

Here is what I experience on our summer trip.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/a-li...ge-262169.html

[johnnyreno]

I am watching for leaks, only thing I have done different was for the first time ever ran the engine preheat. it may have had air its got me though im watching for leaks I ran it for 25 minutes heater etc nothing

[johnnyreno]

THX for replies I found a leak in the rear of ahot a hose it is final charge I took off the pinch type clamp and added a stainless clamp leak stopped it was connected to 1 of the black pumps right next to the tempering valve needed 3 hands only have 2 but finally got it. thx again

[johnnyreno]

I think I will just doe them all with the worm drives or constant torque should I do the 5/8 size thx

[DSL417]

Some of the hoses are 3/4" hoses. You're going to have some spillage unless you use some hose pinch clamps. If you're just talking the engine heat hose (there are two and it sounds like you already have done one), the other alternative is to turn off the flow. You have two yellow handled valves on the front drivers side bottom (you get at it from underneath and it is a tight squeeze) and front drivers side top (have to take off the engine cover in your bedroom, and it can be a bit of a real down, but you cannot reach it from underneath). Bother lever pumps get moved 90 degrees to close and stop the flow of coolant to the AH while the engine is on; the only effect this has can't use the engine pre-heat (for the bathroom button, but probably don't need it), and you can't use the engine to heat the boiler for tuning the "gas" floor heaters while the road. As you're South and going to be out, probably don't need that either.

[johnnyreno]

Copy that ghost rider, you are right I think its gotta be the engine loop how else would it be final charge and not the ahot boiler fluid it was 1 of those pinch with pliers clamp just simply was not holding tight enough I looked at the parts list of the unit im pretty sure its engine loop.

[DSL417]

If so, you can turn off those levers I mentioned earlier, and you can travel. Even after mine were warrantee repaired (and this is a warrantee campaign I believe; thought most I know had already had the clamps replaced).

John, when mine leaked it was inside the AH and the orange fluid came out the bottom brill on the AH unit; look underneath and you can see it. Mine was coming out at a rate of about a couple quarts a day on the road, but that was under the hose pressure, it was a pin hole leak inside, and even though I replaced the fluid, I went ahead and turned the valves off. I basically ran a year with the valves turned off. Recently turned them back on, after I had the hose campaign work done last Sept at Middlebury. I haven't had leaks since. But note, there are hose clamps both inside and outside the rear of the AH unit. If I remember, the hose clamps are onto a copper fitting on both sides of the wall.

Now, also note if it was on the outside, which a few folks have had, it would spray the orange fluid all over your storage area. Or at the engine, and I just don't remember what kind of clamps are at the valve location. If it is at the engine, the fund will be on the ground and/or probably blown all over the inside of the engine compartment. If it is leaking inside, it's only exit is out the grill and pan on the bottom of the AH.

At least that is the most I know about it. There is an AH certified repair facility in Vegas I believe, but if it is at the engine, that might be a repair for a service provider, or a mobile guy that knows what he is doing. To check underneath, you can raise your rear lacks to the highest to get under (although I have never heard of these jacks letting go, I didn't feel real comfortable ender there with them in that position). If you can get under wth tires on the ground it is better, The yellow lever and the hose connection on the bottom is forward towards the front (driver end) of the engine. If this stuff doesn't make sense, send me a text and I'll call you.

[johnnyreno]

ROGER on that im going to rec lamp anything I can get too. tthis weekend moving three 7 foot safes next weekend. Gonna be fun gettin close dave. save some orange ruffs for the rest of us.

[DSL417]

Headed out to the deep on Thursday next week I think. Hope they are biting.

I think we're probably going to miss you in FL, now. We start heading West on the 18th.