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Old 06-15-2018, 04:10 PM   #29
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You should also ask yourself how much you dry camp. If you move from plug in to plug in you can spend a whole lot of extra money on a system that is a lot better than you need.


We don’t dry Camp at all, I only worry about my fur babies and losing shore power along with ac when we aren’t home.
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:17 PM   #30
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In that case you will have to make sure your Automatic Generator Start (AGS) is turned on and working. You should test the AGS after your new batteries are installed to make sure it works properly, and should double check to make sure AGS is on each time you leave the fur babies in the coach.
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:18 AM   #31
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And that is my point. If one never dry camps then having enough battery to make it from shut down at night to startup in the morning is sufficient. You can't reasonably run the A/C off batteries so you need to rely on the generator for that. Adding 4 extra batteries or upgrading to the max dollar one's still won't buy you anything.
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:07 AM   #32
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And that is my point. If one never dry camps then having enough battery to make it from shut down at night to startup in the morning is sufficient. You can't reasonably run the A/C off batteries so you need to rely on the generator for that. Adding 4 extra batteries or upgrading to the max dollar one's still won't buy you anything.
To the contrary, it will buy you some assurance that your generator will start when needed. With dead or weak batteries, the Auto Gen Start is useless and then the air conditioning will not protect the pets.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:37 AM   #33
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Actually it will just start the generator more often than a larger bank. Neither bank will handle A/C loads unless going to really large Lithium.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:12 PM   #34
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Yes, but good batteries will start the generator whereas weak batteries won’t. Nobody said the batteries will run the A\C without the generator. They will not.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:35 AM   #35
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So according to you it takes 4 or more high quality fully charged deep cycle batteries to start the generator???
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:09 AM   #36
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On the boat, both the engine and the generator are started using the "starting" battery. I have never understood why RV generators are wired to start from the house bank which is low; the reason for starting the generator. At least the Aux button was a good afterthought.
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:23 AM   #37
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AGM house with flooded starting batteries is not a problem. Set your charger for the AGM house batteries and your starting batteries will be fine. The voltages required are close enough to not make a big difference for the starting batteries. Should not have to adjust your alternator output voltage for the same reasons.
That's the way my CC came from the factory. 4 8D AGM's and 4 925 CCA no/low maintenance lead acid. Charger was set for the AGM's.
Even with that battery bank my ISX sometimes is hard to turn over and start.
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:52 AM   #38
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On the boat, both the engine and the generator are started using the "starting" battery. I have never understood why RV generators are wired to start from the house bank which is low; the reason for starting the generator. At least the Aux button was a good afterthought.
They start and run the generator on the house battery because most RV generators doesn't have a charging system. They depend on the converter/charger, inverter/charger to maintain that battery.

If the generator ran from the chassis battery, it would run it down, unless you have bi-directional charging.

I moved my generator to the chassis battery so it wouldn't fault out my inverter, when starting the generator, when the house batteries were low. I also added a by-directional, voltage sensing relay, across the boost solenoid.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:18 AM   #39
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I believe the real reason the generator uses the house batteries is because of the voltage loss from the 40 * feet of heavy cables
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:28 AM   #40
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Yes, but good batteries will start the generator whereas weak batteries won’t. Nobody said the batteries will run the A\C without the generator. They will not.
X2 what Mac said. When my batteries went bad, the generator would "try" to start with the AGS set at 12V. Problem was the amps were to low to start the generator. Had the AGS been needed for pet survival, it wouldn't have happened with bad batteries. JME.

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Old 06-18-2018, 03:34 PM   #41
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This is all a lot of technical info for a girl new to RV world. I have a 5'er that has a bad battery. Only 1. I also have a factory installed generator. I need to replace the battery and have been trying to research deep cycle batteries and various types from AGM and all these terms that are over my head. My 5'er is a Jayco Designer Legacy 38' so can anyone suggest a battery for it?
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:00 PM   #42
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Lisa, it is best to stick with the same “frame” sized battery. What I am talking about is the outside dimensions of your battery.

Typically, trailers use a universal battery box that will easily house a few different sized batteries.

To simplify, stick with the same overall size you have.

Next, you need to determine how the battery cables connect. Some batteries have top post which looks like a old school automotive battery. A top post battery will have a cable laying on top of the battery, and the bolt that fastens the clamp is parallel with the top of the battery.

The more modern connection is a screw type terminal. This arrangement has the cables either on the top, or side of the battery. If you examine the cable ends, you will notice the ends look kinda like a flattened doughnut with a small hex headed fastener in the center.

Either way, you need to determine what your cable ends look like, and the size of your battery. This is where cell phone images and the internet come in handy.

Take a picture and post here for more detailed help.

Once you know the size and terminal style, you can then decide what you want based on the following generalizations:

-Lead Acid. This is pretty much the oldest battery in terms of technology. While quite old technologically, simple lead acid batteries (properly cared for) can serve an owner for a very long time. In terms of care, these batteries require topping off with distilled water, and corrosion removal. I’ve had lead acids last for 5 or more years. In Arizona, plan to pop the caps and top off once a month. This is by far the least expensive battery solution.

-Sealed Lead Acid. Well, this one is proof of truth in advertising. It’s the same as above, just sealed! This means no way to add water. This is fine unless you abuse the battery and cause it to spit out the electrolyte, in which case you will be buying another battery sooner than anticipated. This battery still has issues with corrosion. The cost of SLA batteries is only fractionally higher than a simple Lead Acid.

-AGM. This is sort of where rational battery pricing ends in the industry today. Yes, I know Lithium batteries are out there, but the cost of entrance is simply staggering. Back to reality, an AGM battery is kind of the quiet professional of the battery gang.. it doesn’t need service, is hard to kill, won’t have corrosion issues, and is more tolerant of abuses than any form of lead acid battery. These sweet sounding features come at a price. Comparing a lead acid battery to an AGM (of the same size) will reveal a substantial premium in price. I’d expect to pay anywhere from 200-300% more for an AGM when compared to a simple Lead Acid. Woof. Ok, that is pretty staggering but keep in mind if you completely discharge a Lead Acid, it’s probably very damaged, if not dead. A full discharge on an AGM doesn’t sound the death knell. Don’t take this as permission to discharge your AGM, instead think of it as more error tolerant. With any battery there is a documented correlation between the depth of discharge, and the the number of times the discharge happens.

With all this being said, any battery is simply a storage device. Every user is different. It’s important to determine how you will use your trailer, and what things are important to you.

For example, if you are almost always at a campground with electrical, then you don’t need anything terribly fancy in your battery bay.

On the other end of the spectrum is someone who spends a lot of time on BLM land, and hasn’t seen a FHU CG in a month. This person needs the best and most capable battery bank available.

Most of us are in the former category, and just a few in the latter.

It’s likely you have either a Group 24, or Group 31 battery. Most trailer manufacturers ship the trailer without the battery, and its installed at the dealer, so you may be the only person able to determine what you have.

One good resource is Batteries and Bulbs. There stores are plentiful, and they are very competitive with regard to price. In their Lead Acid and SLA lines, I like their Duracell batteries.

Let us know and we’ll try to help finish your research.

-Matt
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