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02-28-2016, 01:05 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSL417
Already got my first scratch on the side taking a tough stepped trailing rocks. We're at 125 miles in the first 5 weeks. Tearing the deserted the Spring Mountains once or twice a week. Interesting to track up above the snow line! Think I may need to add winch to be safe.
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What's your setup when towing? I really would like to get a side by side, but outside of either a long flat tow or enclosed trailer, I'm not sure how to make it work. Maybe RZR specific trips?
Anyway, thought I'd ask others with similar setups.
Thanks
__________________
2016 Anthem 44B - Go Blue!
2014 Jeep Rubicon
Making memories, one day at a time!
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03-01-2016, 12:06 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lincoln20
What's your setup when towing? I really would like to get a side by side, but outside of either a long flat tow or enclosed trailer, I'm not sure how to make it work. Maybe RZR specific trips?
Anyway, thought I'd ask others with similar setups.
Thanks
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Well, I think you could make a RaZR work on a Hydralift, but I chose a 900EPS trail model with a 50" width (wanted to make sure that the model chosen would work on the 50" Forest Service trails) because, most of all, to fit in the back of the F-150 p/u. That said, the wheels are about 51"; not a big thing, but you have to move over the wheel wells (and I have an 8' bed). So I bought ramps fro Home Depot; about 10 inches high and 8" wide to drive over the wheel wells. Works well; however, the second time in, I backed into the rear truck window...not good. So rigged a 1X10' board across the end of the back of the bed to protect the window. I also screwed the ramps into the truck bed to keep them from moving. I use a Big Boy ramp (the walking ramps rather than the center motorcycle ramp). Works for me.
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Dave and Beth
2015 Cornerstone 45J
2020 Ford F-150 Lariat
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03-01-2016, 06:11 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Polk City, FL
Posts: 3,368
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I've been lurking around about this Polaris RZR business and I saw Hydralift has an ATV lift that says it will hold the smaller Razor. That RZR 900 is about 1150 lbs, I don't know about the new RZR 1000. Guess they beefed up the older golf cart Hydralift and raised it's capacity from 1000 lbs to 1150 lbs.
Side-by-Side Lift | Hydralift Motorcycle Lifts
Sorry for hijack
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Dave & Debbie
2021 Newmar DutchStar 4369
2016 Ford Edge&2019 Ford F-150 toads
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03-01-2016, 06:44 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 179
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Thanks for the info and ideas. You're right - I suppose I should've started a specific thread about it opposed to messing up this thread. My bad.
__________________
2016 Anthem 44B - Go Blue!
2014 Jeep Rubicon
Making memories, one day at a time!
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03-01-2016, 09:11 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowejug
was wondering if it was normal for the battery voltage reading to be around 12.4 to 12.6 instantly after being plugged in for along time? it will be reading float charging before I un plug . then pretty much right way it reads this lower voltage after being un plugged.
I would think with anthems 8 batteries it would be stronger for longer than that.
does this possibly mean my batteries are starting to ware out? what are other entegra owners experiencing? this is a 2014 model and I have owned it only for about 1 month.
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In my many years of living on boats I came to understand voltage as a measure of battery health. A fully charged unloaded battery should read 12.8 volts or higher - I have had start batteries that would sit at 13.0 vdc for weeks at a time. If they are coming off a lenghty charge cycle and dropping to 12.6 or 12.4, assuming your VOM is accurate (fresh battery etc ) that is telling me they are shot. If they are lead acid (wet cell) you can test with a hygrometer and determine if you have a bad cell, but no matter - one bad cell equals one bad battery.
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03-01-2016, 09:45 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
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There is really only one way to accurately check the charge condition and ability of any wet cell battery to deliver sustained current to do the required job and that is with a proper LOAD test.
When measuring a battery using voltage here's what is expected. A battery at rest and fully charged will have present about 12.6 V's. Usually each cell will deliver 2.1 V's. If the battery was recently being charged it will (as mentioned) have a surface charge giving an at rest voltage a bit higher than 12.6-V. As long as it's at least 12.6-V it is indicating with some degree of reliability that it is charged.
The job of the battery is to deliver current at 12.6 volts of pressure. How much current is demanded is based on the expected electrical work. An interior light might need 1/2 of an AMP of current and a starter motor may need 150 AMPS of current. Both require the electrons to be delivered with 12.6 volts of pressure.
Use the battery voltage test to give you an educated guess as to the charge condition of a battery but don't use it as an absolute test of it's charge condition.
If my coach were setting for a few weeks the battery voltage should be very close to 12.6 V. If it's a few tents down I'm not worried. If it's at 12.0 or lower then I'm a bit concerned. I'll charge it overnight, let it rest for a few hours unplugged and take more readings. If it's 12.6 or 12.7 V I'm good. If it's still below 12.6 then I'm more concerned and that calls for further testing.
Except for the differences between AGM and a few other types of batteries they are all about the same and should be treated as such. Testing and charging procedures are all about the same.
TeJay
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TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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