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Old 07-25-2017, 06:20 AM   #1
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Bike rack between RV and tow vehicle followup

So I got the swagman bike rack and there was room to mount it on my blue ox hitch bar.

with only 1 bike mount set up (facing the rear - fortunately I am only looking to carry 1 bike!) the engine cover opens (barely), but you must have the bike off and the arms folded down.

So now my question is, if I make a sharp turn will the truck hit the bike rack? Playing around with a measuring tape, if the tow bar turns a lot it will be close. I am not sure (having never been back there in a tight turn) how great an angle the tow bar will rotate to.

Anyone tried this or have any thoughts? The acid test would be to find a parking lot and try it, but I am currently in the mountains at the end of a windy road...... There may be one I can use, but hoping for some helpful advice.

Thanks

Van Sayler
2017 Anthem 44B
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:21 AM   #2
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Here is a picture of the setup
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:24 AM   #3
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That does look to be on the tight side. Have you considered adding an extension?
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:11 AM   #4
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It also appears that your tow bar would be difficult to fold up and lock in the stow position. An extension would help this also.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:39 AM   #5
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The only way to be sure is to take it to a large parking lot and have someone walk beside it whil you make the sharpest turn possible.
And no, you can't stow the tow bar as usual. I use a 3 inch wide strap to hold the tow bar up when I travel with our bike rack. Not a big deal as your only driving the rig to your parking spot in the CG.
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:03 PM   #6
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Vsayler thanks for this info, I was considering switching to this bike rack but now I'm not so sure. We have the Blue Ox Avail and I would need to attach the bike rack in the same place you did on the tow bar arm. We do have a drop hitch/extender but there is not enough room on it so the rack needs to go on the tow bar. Looking at your photo it does seem to be real close. Looking forward to learning how it works out for you.
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:08 PM   #7
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the REAL test for 'tightness' is to take the coach into a hard turn on an uneven driveway entrance/exit, where the bike would be the closest possible to the front or hood of the vehicle... or, as others have said, simply add a 4" to 6" extension receiver for the tow bar - problem solved. (This will also work for the bike rack/engine cover tightness, an extension between the coach and the bike rack.)
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:14 PM   #8
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We've got a similar setup - using Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain tow bar and a Thule Vertex bike rack - along with a 2012 Jeep Liberty for a toad. Although the Thule is a 4 bike rack - I can only carry two bikes on it and have the bikes clear the front of the Jeep during maximum left / right turns. I can squeeze a 3rd bike on the rack - but must remove both the front and rear wheels from the "outside" bike if I do.

As somebody else suggested - we tested the clearances by loading everything up a nearby parking lot - launched the coach into "to the pin" left and right turns while my DW walked and watched. With two "complete" bikes on the rack - we have 3"-4" of clearance between the bikes and the Jeep at maximum turning.
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:19 PM   #9
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We are using the same setup with no problems. As a matter of fact our bike rack holds four bikes. We use a dual hitch adapter with a six inch drop. Hope that helps.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:03 PM   #10
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Van, while extensions and drop adaptors may solve your bike rack related clearance issue, it may create another more significant issue.

As you know, every extension device increases the leverage applied to each component between the towed vehicle and the coach.

There is a point where components will reveal this leverage in the form of component failure.

In our case, we tow a Platinum F-150 SCREW, frequently loaded with a 1000# golf cart. So figure around 6700 all up.

Previously, we had a Blue Ox Avesta LX 10,000# tow bar that had around six months of use following a factory rebuild.

In that six months, we bought our Aspire, with a higher receiver, requiring a 6" drop adaptor to get the angles correct. We bought a very stout adaptor, no failures with solid steel.

What failed was the pivot ball on the Blue Ox. I caught it before it completely separated.

We changed to a different brand tow bar to correct the angles, and discontinued using the adaptor.

Towing a Raptor, I'd suggest doing everything possible to stay away from adaptors, and really watch that towbar angle. Anything out of level is asking for trouble.

That more than you asked for, but I hope it helps you avoid an issue.

Best Regards,

-Matt
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Old 07-26-2017, 04:17 AM   #11
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Yes, but your two points are in conflict with each other. Very often in order to keep the towbar level an adepter (drop hitch) is needed, so it becomes impossible to achieve level and no adapter at the same time. You have to choose one or the other.

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Originally Posted by Matt D View Post
Van, while extensions and drop adaptors may solve your bike rack related clearance issue, it may create another more significant issue.

As you know, every extension device increases the leverage applied to each component between the towed vehicle and the coach.

There is a point where components will reveal this leverage in the form of component failure.

In our case, we tow a Platinum F-150 SCREW, frequently loaded with a 1000# golf cart. So figure around 6700 all up.

Previously, we had a Blue Ox Avesta LX 10,000# tow bar that had around six months of use following a factory rebuild.

In that six months, we bought our Aspire, with a higher receiver, requiring a 6" drop adaptor to get the angles correct. We bought a very stout adaptor, no failures with solid steel.

What failed was the pivot ball on the Blue Ox. I caught it before it completely separated.

We changed to a different brand tow bar to correct the angles, and discontinued using the adaptor.

Towing a Raptor, I'd suggest doing everything possible to stay away from adaptors, and really watch that towbar angle. Anything out of level is asking for trouble.

That more than you asked for, but I hope it helps you avoid an issue.

Best Regards,

-Matt
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:18 AM   #12
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I bought a simple straight 7 inch adapter and I think that will give me enough room, but I will test it out.

I do like to keep the adapters to a minimum if for no other reason than overall length.

But you do make a good point about inspecting the tow bar carefully on a regular basis. I had one starting to loosen up and had to send it to the factory to get rebuilt. So I always check it out when I hook up.

Thanks

Van
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:09 AM   #13
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Marc, I understand your confusion. In our case, I realized some offset would be necessary, so I incorporated that into my shopping criteria as my Blue Ox was toast anyway.

Here is the original thread on this issue..

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/chec...ly-326949.html

The new setup is so much more robust than the Blue Ox and adaptor.

This lesson only cost me $1000, so I feel fortunate and wanted to pass it along.

Take care,

-Matt
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:05 PM   #14
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Can't tell the model toad you have, but maybe mount the bike to the toad? If I carry bikes, I use the hitch mount in the Jeep for a bike rack. May be an option?
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