Changing fuel filter or running out of fuel

[Matt D]

I’ve never had a diesel can that didn’t leak, so I don’t carry spare fuel. In addition, the modern bio blends don’t do well when left unburned and in storage for a long time.

I do however carry a set of spare filters and won’t turn a wheel without them.

As mentioned, prefilling is not absolutely essential to getting it running. However, be advised that if you turn the key ON without starting enough times, you will generate a CEL (Check Engine Light) relating to ECM time on and not running, or something like that.

If you simply keep driving, that CEL will eventually clear itself.

Ideally, it is best to prefill the fuel water separator, and then install the final filter dry.

-Matt

[MoHoGo]

Originally Posted by Les1951

We have primed the filters with Coleman stove oil. It can be bought in a 1 gallon can at Walmart.It stores well, works well in tractors, trucks, and RV’s [emoji2]

That is an interesting alternative. From all of the posts on this topic I think I would first try to prime with cycling the ignition. Also, not to run out of fuel ;-)

[Tall Tex]

Originally Posted by FreshAir

Tex, are you saying when the pump doesn't run when you turn the key on it's primed? Filter is full? Thank's for the tip.

No. What I'm saying is that the pump runs for a short period of time and then shuts off. To prime the filters, you must cycle the key many times. The only way to know the filters are full is to remove them and look, or attempt to start the engine.

Using ATF as a ULS diesel fuel substitute in my coach to me is a high risk situation. I'm sure the engine will start but the consequences could be very costly. Especially with the exhaust after treatment components.

Shade tree mechanics have been using ATF for decades as an approach to solving engine problems.....with mixed results. In the old days when diesel injectors worked under 2,000 psi pop off pressures, adding a little oil to the fuel would "thicken" the fuel enough to bring them back in spec. But with today's engines that have unit injectors that operate well over 25,000 psi, with electronic control technology that injects various amounts of fuel multiple times each combustion cycle and are designed to operate on ULS diesel only. Using an alternative such as ATF to me is a risk I'm not willing to take.

[Caliber]

Not all diesel engine have a electric lift pump, cycling the key to fill the filter won't work. Cummin 6.7 B is one of them. For the 6.7 B Look at the filter head on the remote mounted primary filter, there should be a primer pump. With the secondary filter still loose but not touching the seal to the base, pump the primer until fuel starts to over flow from the secondary filter, than tighten it down. When a common rail equipped engine loses prime,,, it take awhile to work the air out, chances are you'll have a dead battery before you get it running.

On adding AFT to any diesel built after 2007, DON'T! You can damage the DOC and DPF. On newer diesels 2010+ the AFT will screw up the Nox sensors.
These engines are design to run on ULS diesel only.
Another issue is ULS is dyed green, adding the red ATF turns the fuel red. If you have a warranty claim that red fuel will void the warranty.

[smlranger]

I carry spare filters and a large jug of clean diesel fuel for filling the filters. I periodically pour the jug in the coach tank and refill it with fresh fuel. Used it twice in a trip.....worked like a charm. My Fleetguard filters come with a center plug.

[edgray]

AFAIK, what ever is put into the fuel filters will go directly into the engine and will be the first combustion upon startup. If that is correct, don't see how it could dye the fuel in the tank.
Unless it has been re formulated recently, stove fuel is highly refined unleaded gasoline and I sure don't want pure gasoline being injected into my Diesel engine.

[Caliber]

Hi Ed,
A majority of diesel engine have a return fuel line. Not all of the fuel going through the filters go into combustion. The fuel pump and injectors return a small amount of fuel back to the fuel tank, this fuel is hot from being heated up from the pump and engine head. The manufacturer return it to the tank to help cool the return fuel.

[Gasman 2]

I was wondering when some one would mention the return fuel thing.
The 2 stroke Detroit Diesel would actually return enough fuel that at the end of day the fuel tank was warm.
Didn't have to worry about the fuel gelling.
To my knowledge all Diesel engines have a return line to the fuel tank. As Caliber mention to aid in cooling.

So really the fuel could go through the filters multiple times before being used in the combustion process.

[petrel]

FWIW, Eagle makes a nice compact 2 gallon Type 2 safety can that is perfect for carrying priming fuel. I've only got about 16,000 miles on mine, but no leaks so far.

[dave&ginny]

Originally Posted by smlranger

I carry spare filters and a large jug of clean diesel fuel for filling the filters. I periodically pour the jug in the coach tank and refill it with fresh fuel. Used it twice in a trip.....worked like a charm. My Fleetguard filters come with a center plug.

I recently bought a small can I'll carry diesel in and do the same thing. my toad is a truck, so I carry the extra can in the bed of the truck

[bevandtomH]

How often has this happened to everyone with regards to changing the fuel filter while on the road?
I’m getting the impression it happens enough that one should be ready to do it often based on circumstances.
Does not sound like much fun....

[Gary.Jones]

Put the new dry filter on the threads and turn the ignition on and off until the pump fills the filter and becomes silent. Then try starting. Takes a little while but it will work.

Gary

[Matt D]

Originally Posted by bevandtomH

How often has this happened to everyone with regards to changing the fuel filter while on the road?
I’m getting the impression it happens enough that one should be ready to do it often based on circumstances.
Does not sound like much fun....

Tom, in our previous coach we got a load of bad fuel. It took over a year and quite a few filter changes to shake the problem.

Changing filters on a Phaeton was quite an exercise as the filters are located between the pan rail and the cylinder head alongside the PS of the engine. IOW, you’re gonna get pretty dirty no matter what.

The existing Entegra setup is a breeze and can be made even more simple if you relocate the filters to the engine bay.

As it sits bone stock, I can easily change the filters without any spilled fuel, or taking a bath in diesel like I did previously.

I’ve had to perform 2 roadside filter changes on the Phaeton, and 1 on our Aspire. Totally night and day experience.

If I suspect a filter problem, I’m going to limp in somewhere safe. Ideally, I’ll perform this in a CG so I’m not worried about getting nailed by someone texting at 80 MPH.

In this case, fresh diesel is likely available after a short drive in the pickup. I keep a Diesel Fuel only container in my bin of critical spares. I’ll take that to the pump, fill with fresh diesel and then swap things out.

If I cannot get fresh fuel, I will change the filters one at a time and run the engine in between changes.

I can’t speak for others, but I’ve had enough experiences with bad fuel that I’m not going anywhere without spare filters.

-Matt

[Jerry0312]

I carry a siphon available from amazon prime for $20-$25. No spilled fuel mess or odor. only used it once with last two coaches