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Old 06-17-2018, 08:00 PM   #1
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Couple of questions please.

2012 Aspire DEQ - trying to become more of a DIY

1). When you change your oil how do you collect so many gallons? Is there an oil catch that allows this like for a car? I have seen the thread on oil filter wrenches -and the thread on lube points! thank you - that helps.
2). Does anyone have the procedure documented for changing the hydraulic filter without draining all the hydraulic fluid?
3). Currently my passenger front is approximately 1Ē lower than my left and it is pulling slightly right. I recently had it aligned but now am wondering if this is a ride height issue. If not, what could be causing the slight dip? The back is perfect. I have had it weighed at a CAT scale but not the four corners. Right now the major weight is the four deep cycle batteries behind the entry door and passenger front wheel.

As usual - thank you all VERY much!! This forum is incredible.

Jeff & Terri
New Braunfels, TX
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:28 PM   #2
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Oreilly's carries a large oil container for changing your oil. Not sure how many qts/gallons but I have seen one in the local store.
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:23 PM   #3
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Have never changed my oil myself.... a suggestion.... look and see if you have a Speedco close to you and then call them and ask them the price of a motorhome oil and lube visit. My experience, back in the "old days" before they were bought out is that I could not buy the oil and filters commercially and do the work myself for less than I could have Speedco do it and do it all in about 30-45 minutes for the same cost or less.

Now that they been bought out, there are reports that the prices vary depending on supply and demand in each location, but I am still planning to have my first oil and lube service done on my new coach when it is needed by Speedco.

Cant help you on the other items..... I just dont want to try to deal with 27 quarts of oil or whatever it was on my 450 and now near 50 quarts on my new coach.... Speedco will get first shot at doing it for me.

Gary
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:55 PM   #4
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Changing the oil yourself is easy. First buy a valve to go into the oil pan in place of the drain plug. I installed mine simply enough by removing the plug and sticking my finger in the hole until I got the new valve ready to insert. Then I quickly removed my finger and threaded in the drain valve. I lost less than a pint of oil doing this.

With the valve in place you can drain a few gallons at a time. There’s only 7.5 gallons in there. I buy 1 gallon jugs of oil and refill the containers with the old oil and deliver it back to the auto parts store.

Getting the oil filter out is the hardest part due to the dip stick being so close but it can be done
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jburklo View Post
2012 Aspire DEQ - trying to become more of a DIY

1). When you change your oil how do you collect so many gallons? Is there an oil catch that allows this like for a car? I have seen the thread on oil filter wrenches -and the thread on lube points! thank you - that helps.
2). Does anyone have the procedure documented for changing the hydraulic filter without draining all the hydraulic fluid?
3). Currently my passenger front is approximately 1” lower than my left and it is pulling slightly right. I recently had it aligned but now am wondering if this is a ride height issue. If not, what could be causing the slight dip? The back is perfect. I have had it weighed at a CAT scale but not the four corners. Right now the major weight is the four deep cycle batteries behind the entry door and passenger front wheel.

As usual - thank you all VERY much!! This forum is incredible.

Jeff & Terri
New Braunfels, TX
2012 Aspire DEQ
I am not sure if my 14 Aspire has the same engine as your 12, but mine holds 6.5 gallons. I just use an old plastic storage container to drain the oil in. You have to find something big enough to hold 6.5 gallons and fit under the drain pan. I use the Shell Rotella oil and I usually find it on sale for about $13/gallon. The LF9009 filter was $35. Total cost for me is about $120. You also have to deal with disposing of the used oil. I have an oil burning stove that I burn it in that heats my shop in the winter, so that is not a problem for me. I always change the generator at the same time also. It uses 1.5 gallons of oil and the filter for it is only $5 or $6. I have the time and a place to do the maintenance and I enjoy doing it. During changing the oil and lubing it, I get a good look at the underside and it gives me an excellent opportunity to look everything over and check for other problems. I have found a bad air bag and other leaks that needed attention. I am no diesel mechanic, but I doubt most oil change techs have the experience or spend the time to look everything over thoroughly, so I get some peace of mind out of it also.

I had a problem with mine pulling to the right also. I had it aligned a few months after I bought it at Entegra, that did not help. I later took it to Spartan and they spent a day and a half working on the front end trying to get it aligned. It had already wore the tires on one side bad enough that they replaced them also. It was just slightly better, but still pulled to the right. After reading many recommendations here about Perry Legends in Columbia, MO, I stopped in there and let them look at it. They spent a couple hours working on it while we went and ate lunch. When I returned, they had me take a test drive and it was a totally different drive. I could let loose of the wheel and it would track down the road for over a mile without ever leaving my lane. They told me it was the drive axle that was out of alignment pushing the front to the right. They also rotated my steer tires because there was some uneven wear already. I don't remember the exact amount, but my bill was just under $400, much less than I expected. My point is, there are a few people that know how to set these coaches up correctly where they will track down the road and there are many that do not, even the people that build them. I am not sure who did your alignment, but if you find someone that specializes in alignments and has experience doing that work, they can correct your problem.
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:10 PM   #6
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I went to Menards and bought a plastic mortar box. It works very well. My engine holds 9.5 gallons of oil and it handles it easily. I'm sure Lowes and Home Depot have something similar. It also works if draining your engine coolant. I think it cost around $15. I did add the valve that was mentioned above just to make the job a little easier but I open it and let it flow until empty.
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:36 AM   #7
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When I use to change my own oil, I used a 5 gallon paint bucket with a snap on lid, drain, snap the lid on and took it to Walmart.
Replace the drain plug with one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-104N.../dp/B003VC97N0

Save your gallon jugs then the next oil change drain the oil into the empty jugs. Hawgguy had success putting a shop vac on the oil fill and swapped the plug before his first oil change. He didn't loose any oil and made the valve change easy. The Fumoto valve is the only way to go for DYI oil changes with little or no mess.

For the generator, I use this plug, I still service my generator. Femco Drain Valve did work on the 12.5 KW Onan

It sounds like the ride height valves are out of adjustment. I use Florida Spring and Axel here in Ft Myers for my alignment and valve adjustments. Possibly your alignment shop can check yours as well.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:45 AM   #8
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Jeff, Chuck essentially said what I was going to, including the Fumoto / vacuum trick.

I can attest it works quite well.

I bought several black 3.5 G oil containers at Autozone to capture the used oil.

Our ISL9 also needed a special filter wrench due to space constraints. You can use a heavy duty strap wrench, but I prefer a 3-finger oil filter wrench.

In changing the filter, I get it loose then slide a plastic bag up as far as possible so any spilled drops of oil are captured. With bag in place around the filter, I complete removing the filter.

Plan on changing your fuel filters at the same time as your oil service. One tip here is to change only one filter at a time. Follow the Cummins instructions as they indicate prefilling one of the filters, but not the other. I recall the filter that required prefilling to be the FS (Fuel water Separator), and the FF (Fuel Filter) was to be installed dry as this was your final filter and it needed to filter all fuel to the engine.

Iíll point out that Iíve remembered this wrong enough times that Iím very careful to check the service instructions, and the diagram on the side of the filters.

Once your coach has clean oil and fuel, you will turn your attention to the hydraulic fluid.

Iíve done this job. Ugh! This is just one of those jobs that is unpleasant and messy. Iíd suggest getting a very large plastic painters drop cloth and using it as a diaper under the coach. I also use 2-3 drip pans and my large drain pan.

The problem is that when you crack the filter, youíre going to lose the contents of the reservoir.

Another practical issue, is youíre only capturing a portion of the total system fluid.

Like I said, I look forward to most jobs, not so much with this one.

Good luck on your projects.

-Matt
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Old 06-18-2018, 01:19 PM   #9
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So today I tackled a very small project that has been bothering me.

On our K2-450, in the Spartan Service Center (aft right bay) theyíve thoughtfully located the fuel filters, Air Dryer, and Air Governor.

Unfortunately, Entegra installs a vertical steel post that helps locate the rear bodywork, the bay door latch, and the engine cover switch. I say unfortunately because this post must be removed to service the Fuel Filter.

Iím OK with the FS (Fuel Water Separator) being inside this bay. I donít find the FS location to be a problem.

So today I decided to relocate the Fuel Filter to a more accessible location within the engine bay.

I must admit I was mistaken earlier when I stated only one filter is prefilled. The Fleetguard instructions clearly state to prefill both filters.

I only need to zip tie the wires and hoses and reinstall the post for the last time.

-Matt
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt D View Post
So today I tackled a very small project that has been bothering me.

On our K2-450, in the Spartan Service Center (aft right bay) theyíve thoughtfully located the fuel filters, Air Dryer, and Air Governor.

Unfortunately, Entegra installs a vertical steel post that helps locate the rear bodywork, the bay door latch, and the engine cover switch. I say unfortunately because this post must be removed to service the Fuel Filter.

Iím OK with the FS (Fuel Water Separator) being inside this bay. I donít find the FS location to be a problem.

So today I decided to relocate the Fuel Filter to a more accessible location within the engine bay.

I must admit I was mistaken earlier when I stated only one filter is prefilled. The Fleetguard instructions clearly state to prefill both filters.

I only need to zip tie the wires and hoses and reinstall the post for the last time.

-Matt
All - wow! As usual thank yíall for the quick responses. I already ordered the oil plug valve (thanks Chuck) and three finger filter tool (thanks Matt). Does not look like a difficult oil change. Also, Matt great idea re fuel filter changes. I thought both had to be pre-filled and you confirmed that for me. Mine are on the passenger side where the chassis battery cutoff is located and looks pretty easy to do. Regarding Speedco, with the Love purchase they are now charging $389 for just the oil and lube and not including the generator or fuel filters, when it used to be $290 for lube, chassis oil and fuel filters and generator (could not beat that price).

Matt re the hydraulic filter, I agree and am not looking forward to that. I like the idea of using the painter drop sheets as a diaper and will try to wrap several shop cloths around the area as well.

Chuck re the lower right passenger side I was thinking the same and it being sa ride height issue. Iíll need to find someplace to check that.

As usual this forum is great and thank hou everyone for all the quick responses.

Jeff & Terri
2012Aspire DEQ
New Braunfels, TX
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:48 PM   #11
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If Speedco is up to that price now, I will be back to doing my own oil changes again. With fuel filters that would take the price close to $500. maybe more.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:23 PM   #12
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This is how I change the ISL oil filter.
I loosen the filter some and take a center punch and punch a hole in bottom of the filter and let it drain into a container. Go do something else for awhile and come back and remove filter. That way you don't have to juggle a filter full of oil out of its space.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:35 AM   #13
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The last time we were in Charlotte, MI., at Big Mike's Training (this past May), he emphasized to make sure your Ride Height is always checked and corrected prior to any alignment. A good alignment shop would know this.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:52 AM   #14
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The last time we were in Charlotte, MI., at Big Mike's Training (this past May), he emphasized to make sure your Ride Height is always checked and corrected prior to any alignment. A good alignment shop would know this.
Jim
Thanks Jim. Good to know. I had mine aligned at Southern Truck and Tire in San Antonio, TX. Not sure if Iíd use them again. Iím limited with truck size alignment shops here so might look at Houston.

Thanks again
Jeff
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