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Old 09-30-2016, 07:22 AM   #15
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I think it is well worth $84 per year to avoid all the hassles involved with moving recievers, changing accounts and suffering with know-nothing service reps.

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Originally Posted by Triker56 View Post
You have never looked at your monthly bill from DirecTV for several years. Extra receivers went from $5 on Jan. 2011 to $6 and March 2015 to $6.50 and the last time on Feb. 2016 to $7.

Or 40% more then it was in 2010. Much more increase then my SSA COL increase has been.

So that extra part time use receiver in the RV has gone from $60 a year to $84 a year plus any taxes you may be charged. :(
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:53 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by MRUSA14 View Post
I think it is well worth $84 per year to avoid all the hassles involved with moving recievers, changing accounts and suffering with know-nothing service reps.
It's not just the $84 per year savings that one needs to consider. We have 100's of shows recorded on our dish Hopper at home. Installing this in the MH would allow us to watch those in the MH.

That's the route I'm now thinking about doing, converting the Trav'ler to Dish, then when traveling moving the Hopper and one of the Joeys into the motorhome. The Hopper needs to be unplugged when traveling so would install a power strip so it would be easy to turn the power off. With some moving around of components in the small area above the fireplace where the Hopper would go would not be that difficult to put in and remove when back home.

Anyone know if it would be possible (adequate wiring) to put the Hopper in the bedroom and the Joey under the main TV? That would make installation/removal even easier.
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:12 AM   #17
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Ok so yesterday I installed the Trav'ler Direct TV to DISH conversion kit on my 2017 Aspire. Also did the coax rewiring. Took about 30 minutes for the hardware swap and control box reconfiguration and about an hour for the wiring, would be half that if I had done it before.

Note the following applies to a 2017 Entegra with the Direct TV Trav'ler option but I think it may also apply back to at least 2015.

Entegra has done a fine job here providing for the conversion including the extra coax needed. No need to pull any new wires, everything you need is there, but on the roof you do need to remove the dummy vent cap and dig out some foam to get at the extra coax.

Actually for a Hopper/Joey if you don't mind installing your SOLO Node on the roof you can use the existing Direct TV single coax feed and there is no need to dig out the extra coax. Hopper installations can be run on a single coax too, you would then simply install a Tap in the basement to feed the Joey(s).

I chose to dig out the extra coax which will allow installing the SOLO Node in the basement. This will make connecting a tripod mount auxiliary dish much easier if that is ever needed in the future.

FYI three additional coax are provided for the DISH conversion, but only two at most are needed for a Hopper/Joey setup, but if you have a basic legacy setup this would allow installing separate receivers for the main, bed and outside TV's.

That probably all sounds a bit confusing but I will be posting details and photos in the next week or so, right now we are still moving into the new coach so don't have much time. Just wanted to let you know it is a fairly easy job to covert the Direct TV Trav'ler to DISH and set it up for a Hopper/Joey.
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:19 AM   #18
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Thanks for the update volt doc, looking forward to seeing the pictures.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:30 PM   #19
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Converting a DirectTV Trav'ler to DISH plus ENTEGRA wiring

Sorry about the delay, here's the conversion process. The LNB/Reflector swap described below is valid for a Winegard Trav'ler DirecTV to DISH conversion regardless of brand of coach.

You will need the following items:
  • Winegard RPSK21 - DISH Western Arc LNB assembly for Trav'ler aproximate cost $277
  • Winegard RPSK11 - DISH reflector approximate cost $24
  • DISH Solo Node if you are installing a Hopper/Joey
  • Optional DISH Splitter and/or Tap

The instructions provided with the RPSK11/21 kit are clear and detailed, just follow them and you will have no issues. The only discrepancy I found was the instructions say to remove 4 bolts from the reflector, on mine there were just two bolts, the other two are now tabs.

The photo below shows the DirecTV reflector and LNB removed. The new DISH LNB is at the bottom of the photo.



Removal of the DirectTV adapter plate requires a hex wrench:



The DirectTV LNB has just one coax...:



...and uses only one of the three available ports, DISH will use all three connections:



The DISH adapter plate:



And the DISH LNB installed:





The DISH reflector installed. The above steps are a 10 minute job not counting time to stop and read the instructions:



DirecTV parts removed and to be saved for possible future use:



From here on these instructions are Entegra Specific. This install was done on a 2017 Aspire. Note in the photo below the control cable and coax running into the roof "vent" which is used as a waterproof wiring chase.



The "cap" for the vent can be removed by carefully slicing thru the silicone and freeing the three "feet". A #2 square robertson bit will make it easier to remove the three screws. Note that the newer Entegra's use a much improved NuFlex 311 Self Leveling Silicone sealant on all roof seams.



Here's what I found when the cap was removed. Those three coax are for the DISH install:



It took a bit of digging to get enough foam out to free up the three coax. To reseal the cap when done I used Great Stuff expanding foam inside the vent cap and black silicone to reseal the vent cap cover feet:



Note the colored tape marking the coax, Red, Green, Blue.



The single DirecTV coax already connected to the base as shown in the photo below will be removed and the three DISH cables attached to the three ports. It does not matter what color goes to what port but I followed the color schemes used in THIS DIAGRAM just for consistency.



Before you get off the roof, double check the mount type on the base, you will need it to reprogram the controller. It should be LG 2112 Mount:



That's it your're done on the roof! Now follow the instructions to reprogram the controller for DISH. When I was done and had it search for satellites this is what my display showed:



Next head for the basement, you need to find the other end of those coax with the Red, Green & Blue tape. On my 2017 Aspire they are just inside the last cargo bay door forward of the wet bay on the passenger side, tucked up behind the slanted panel. Here they are after I pulled them out of hiding (top of photo below):



At this point it would be a good idea to permanently unplug the SWM power inserter (above photo right).

Next there are variations depending on what you have for receivers.

For standard receivers you are simply going to take the 3 coax from the roof (Red, Green, Blue) and patch them to thee coax runs for MAIN, BED and EXTERNAL (if you need external). These are the three coax on the 4 port side of the green SWM splitter shown in the above photo (my coax had labels but they are not visible in the photos). Note: if your coach never had the factory Trav'ler option you will not have the SWM splitter, power inserter and associated parts but I assume the coax prewire will be there regardless (at least after 2013, did not have prewire coax on my 2013 Aspire)

For a Hopper/Joey setup like mine you are going to take two of the RED/GREEN/BLUE coax and route them to the input side (bottom of photo) of a SOLO NODE like this (again which color coax you use doesn't matter):



The third coax from the Trav'ler on the roof should be terminated with an F-cap as shown.

The coax that goes to your Hopper should be connected to the HOST port of the SOLO Node - for example, on a 44B the Hopper fits fine in the living room so connect the MAIN coax to the HOST port. On a 42RBQ the Hopper will fit better in the bedroom so connect the BED coax to the HOST port.

If you have no Joey's terminate the CLIENT port with an F Cap and you're done.

If you have one Joey, connect it to the CLIENT port on the SOLO Node. Using the above example on a 44B the BED coax would go to the CLIENT port (Joey in the bedroom), on a 42RBQ the MAIN coax would go to the CLIENT port (Joey in the living room).

If you have 2 Joey's you will connect the input of a DISH approved splitter to the CLIENT port of the SOLO Node and feed the two Joey's from the output of the splitter.

Below is the final basement wiring setup on my coach for One Hopper and One Joey. The DirecTV equipment was left in place in the event I someday switch to DirecTV.



Simplified coax install: if you have a Hopper/Joey and don't want to mess with digging out the three DISH coax up on the roof. You could simply use the single coax already there for DirecTV and install the SOLO Node on the roof (it is fully weatherproof). Wire two new short coax from the base of the Trav'ler to the input of the SOLO Node, then connect the former DirecTV coax to the HOST port on the SOLO Node and F-cap terminate the CLIENT port. Glue it to the roof with some blobs of silicone. In the basement you will use a DISH TAP to separate the outputs for the Hopper and Joey(s). See this document to clarify how these parts work together.

Hope this helps with your DirecTV to DISH conversion project.

NOTE: THESE INSTRUCTIONS DO NOT APPLY TO A HOPPER 3 - IT REQUIRES A DIFFERENT LNB THAN THE ONE PROVIDED FOR THE WINEGARD TRAV'LER.

Rob
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:11 AM   #20
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Rob

Very nice write up. Should be a sticky. I did the same conversion on my 2014 when they first came out. Be advised on older Entegras( at least my 2014) the factory did not run the extra coax cables to the roof. I tried to pay Entegra to do that before my coach build and their production department said "NO" then on later years they quietly adopted what I recommended.

To any owners that do install the Dish conversion please inspect your reflector a few times a year as I have had one rip off the coach and the second one develop fractures around the four mounting holes. Winegard insinuated it was how I installed the dish. I think that reflector is made of too thin of steel and the wind buffeting develops stress fractures. I recently threw away the original mounting bolts and replaced them with slightly longer SS cap head bolts and large SS fender washers. It maybe looks a little odd but doesn't affect my signal and is a lot stronger.
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:03 AM   #21
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Dave, good to know! Think maybe I'll adopt your fender washer mod as a preventative action. Thanks for the info on the 14's not having the extra coax prewire.
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:32 AM   #22
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Going to tackle the Dish conversion in a few weeks when I'm down in warmer S Calif. Thanks to the excellent write up by Rob (voltdoc) post #19 and tip by Dave post #20, it is going to be much easier.

Posts 19 and 20 should be a sticky, either here or in the Tech section!

Will be taking Dish Hopper and a Joey from the home with me on the trip so will need those extra two wires. Rarely watch networks so not worried about getting those from Dish and if we do will just use OTA signals. So far everywhere we've parked have been able to get many OTA channels but looking forward to using the Dish so we can get away from watching all the commercials. Also on our Dish at home we have 100's of hours of recorded programs that we will be able to watch. Dish does not like you taking a Hopper on the road in a MH because of potential damage to the hard drive. From what I've been reading if you unplug the Hopper when traveling that makes damage to the hard drive a none issue. Will just plug the Hopper into a surge strip and turn that off when on the road, its hard to reach that plug in the back of the cabinet.
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Old 01-07-2017, 10:24 AM   #23
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Glad this post came back up. I just switched the S&B back to DISH, they'll be here Monday. The Entegra came with a DISH Traveler when I was told I could only get Direct.(long story) I had already switched the S&B waiting for delivery of the MH to Direct so I was stuck with a 2 year contract. I kept DISH pay as you go in the MH. After having both, the Hopper is so much nicer, glad I kept DISH in the MH. I will now either upgrade to a Wally or add the Hopper to the MH. Nice part, I will be on the same sats again. Perfect timing for me on this post coming alive again.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ready2Travel View Post
Going to tackle the Dish conversion in a few weeks when I'm down in warmer S Calif. Thanks to the excellent write up by Rob (voltdoc) post #19 and tip by Dave post #20, it is going to be much easier.

Posts 19 and 20 should be a sticky, either here or in the Tech section!
Glad you found the conversion write-up useful! Can anyone direct me as to how to ask for a post to be sticky?

After living with the hopper on the 44B for a while now all is good, a switchable power strip makes powering it down for travel easy. Only potential issue we have noticed is heat buildup in the cabinet. Hopper started acting wacky so we began leaving the front door partly open and it seems to have curtailed the problem. Next project will be to put some kind of active ventilation in the cabinet.

Also out here in TX and NM many places have no OTA signals. I've been using DISH Customer Service chat for years to change the DISH service address to get the locals and lately it seems faster and easier than ever. If anyone is interested email or PM me and I would be happy to share the dialog I cut and paste into the chat window that has worked every time for me in the past several months.
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:44 AM   #25
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Rob, I want to also thank you for the great write up. Thanks to you I learned the Hopper 3 is not compatible with the Traveler antenna. Doing a little searching, I think I may have solved that problem of taking recorded shows from home with me without doing more upgrades to the A/V of the MH. A simple plug and play solution.
https://www.mydish.com/hoppergo
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:08 AM   #26
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I have DTV for both home and coach. I just added two receivers to my home account and installed them in the coach for $7.00/month. I leave them on all year.
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:45 PM   #27
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We have had Direct at home for years, so we took a couple of receivers with us so NIRVC could set up everything for us at delivery. We also opted for the Traveler antenna. The installer took one look at our "antique" receivers and said they won't work or fit in the cabinets. So he installed the Genie units in the coach. This system is fantastic and we leave it in the coach and use our antiques at home. We pay the monthly charge for 5 receivers and don't look back. We do call direct to get the local networks when we get too far from home. It is very user friendly this way.
I have the traveler dish and purchased an additional receiver from DTV for the RV. I went though their activation process and tested in in the RV and it worked fine in the driveway. However, on our last trip it would not link up at the campground so I called DTV. The told me I had to take it the RV dealer that installed the dish and let them install the receiver. I pushed politely for a better explanation but only got that since the receiver was no longer at my home the RV dealer would need to resolve the issue.

I just turned it off and used the park cable for the rest of the trip, we do not watch a lot of TV anyway but I would like for it to work.

Any thoughts/ideas?

BTW it worked fine when we got back home, LoL!
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:49 PM   #28
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I have the traveler dish and purchased an additional receiver from DTV for the RV. I went though their activation process and tested in in the RV and it worked fine in the driveway. However, on our last trip it would not link up at the campground so I called DTV. The told me I had to take it the RV dealer that installed the dish and let them install the receiver. I pushed politely for a better explanation but only got that since the receiver was no longer at my home the RV dealer would need to resolve the issue.

I just turned it off and used the park cable for the rest of the trip, we do not watch a lot of TV anyway but I would like for it to work.

Any thoughts/ideas?

BTW it worked fine when we got back home, LoL!
Hmmm, I think you may not have the right receiver. It it a client type, very small and compact unit? If so it may rely on RF from the main receiver. Call solid signal and ask for Essa. He will help you sort it out.
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