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Old 04-11-2018, 09:19 AM   #15
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If your 2017 has the Precision Circuits battery isolation manager (like previous years) then the chassis batteries will get a charge for 1 hour if the house battery bank is above 13.1v and the chassis batteries are 12.6v or less. This may be the reason that Entegra did not hook up the solar panels to the chassis batteries.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:55 AM   #16
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Based on this schematic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzy...w?usp=drivesdk

Both house and chassis batteries are wired to the factory solar setup.

The orange wire goes to the house, the red to the chaissis. The second ground wire is not needed because the house and chassis grounds are connected elsewhere.

To troubleshoot I would start by probing with a voltmeter the chassis and house battery connections at the mornigstar unit. If no voltage on one of the batteries check the fuse which should be an automotive ATC type located at or near the battery.

For the wonky remote panel take a look at the RJ plugs on each end, I have run into several intermittent RJ crimps over the years on my Entegra's.
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Old 04-11-2018, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltdoc View Post
Based on this schematic:



https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzy...w?usp=drivesdk



Both house and chassis batteries are wired to the factory solar setup.



The orange wire goes to the house, the red to the chaissis. The second ground wire is not needed because the house and chassis grounds are connected elsewhere.



To troubleshoot I would start by probing with a voltmeter the chassis and house battery connections at the mornigstar unit. If no voltage on one of the batteries check the fuse which should be an automotive ATC type located at or near the battery.



For the wonky remote panel take a look at the RJ plugs on each end, I have run into several intermittent RJ crimps over the years on my Entegra's.


Rob,

Thank you very much for the EC drawings. I hate troubleshooting from drawings in manuals. My solar system does in fact manage both sets of batteries. Dip switches were set correctly. I did find a blown 30A fuse on the house batteries. Replaced fuse, ran the diagnostics and all appears to be good. I’ll keep a closer eye on them between now and AIR.

Thanks again for your help.

Mark
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltdoc View Post
Based on this schematic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzy...w?usp=drivesdk

Both house and chassis batteries are wired to the factory solar setup.
Hi Rob,

Thanks for the schematics!

So, it looks from the schematics that the text in the owner's manual is not totally accurate. Further, the actual DIP switch settings seem to corroborate the schematic (#2 DIP switch -UP for flooded battery). That all makes sense and seems like a logical design.

There does seem to be something that's a little misleading on the second schematic, to me. In the lower left hand corner, there are two "DIP SWITCH SETTING DETAIL" graphics. The left for Aspire configuration and the right for Anthem/Cornerstone. The left graphic indicates that DIP 1 UP for flooded batteries and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate. The Anthem/Cornerstone graphic shows DIP 1 down and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.

According to to the SunSaver Duo owner's manual, DIP's 1 & 2 are used to select flooded (UP) or sealed (DOWN) and DIP #3 sets the 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.

IF I've got that all correct, it's starting to make sense. I'll have to check volts sometime when I've at the coach.

Thanks, again for the schematics.

May I ask where/how you got them?

Take care,
Stu
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:32 PM   #19
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Hi Rob,



Thanks for the schematics!



So, it looks from the schematics that the text in the owner's manual is not totally accurate. Further, the actual DIP switch settings seem to corroborate the schematic (#2 DIP switch -UP for flooded battery). That all makes sense and seems like a logical design.



There does seem to be something that's a little misleading on the second schematic, to me. In the lower left hand corner, there are two "DIP SWITCH SETTING DETAIL" graphics. The left for Aspire configuration and the right for Anthem/Cornerstone. The left graphic indicates that DIP 1 UP for flooded batteries and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate. The Anthem/Cornerstone graphic shows DIP 1 down and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.



According to to the SunSaver Duo owner's manual, DIP's 1 & 2 are used to select flooded (UP) or sealed (DOWN) and DIP #3 sets the 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.



IF I've got that all correct, it's starting to make sense. I'll have to check volts sometime when I've at the coach.



Thanks, again for the schematics.



May I ask where/how you got them?



Take care,

Stu


Stu,

Once I saw the date on drawing I figured that’s what our 16 was built with In Dec 15.

Typical updates to the pubs lag behind the Drawings!!

I believe the difference for switch setting on left detail (Aspire) is because both sets of batteries are flooded.

Mark
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:42 PM   #20
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Typical updates to the pubs lag behind the Drawings!!

I believe the difference for switch setting on left detail (Aspire) is because both sets of batteries are flooded.

Mark
Hi Mark,

Yes, I think that the graphic for the Aspire is accurate (DIP #1 and DIP #2 both UP). However, the text under the graphic seems to suggest that DIP #2 - UP is to select 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate. The text under the graphic for the Anthem/Cornerstone also has the single arrow pointing at DIP #2 with the 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate text.

According to the SunSaver Duo manual:
DIP #1 - flooded/sealed
DIP #2 - flooded/sealed
DIP #3 - charge rate

Take care,
Stu
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:50 PM   #21
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Hey Stu, I’m guessing error on the drawing. As you point out Switch 3 controls the charge rate so they should have added a separate call out pointing to it. Perhaps Rob can confirm or will have a better answer!

Mark
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:14 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MxChief66-1 View Post
Rob,

Thank you very much for the EC drawings. I hate troubleshooting from drawings in manuals. My solar system does in fact manage both sets of batteries. Dip switches were set correctly. I did find a blown 30A fuse on the house batteries. Replaced fuse, ran the diagnostics and all appears to be good. I’ll keep a closer eye on them between now and AIR.

Thanks again for your help.

Mark
Mark,

Interesting stuff. I never did think to check the fuse between the chassis battery and the Sun Saver controller. Something to do tomorrow if I can find it in the mess around the chassis battery wiring. This is probably why I do not get a voltage reading on the chassis battery at the controller.

Jim
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:25 PM   #23
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Mark,



Interesting stuff. I never did think to check the fuse between the chassis battery and the Sun Saver controller. Something to do tomorrow if I can find it in the mess around the chassis battery wiring. This is probably why I do not get a voltage reading on the chassis battery at the controller.



Jim


Jim, credit goes to Voltdoc. Once I saw the Jayco drawing he posted and realized both sets of batteries are in fact managed, I tracked down the fuse per his suggestion. I hope this helps to solve your problem as well!

Mark
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Old 04-12-2018, 03:26 PM   #24
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Hi Rob,

Thanks for the schematics!

So, it looks from the schematics that the text in the owner's manual is not totally accurate. Further, the actual DIP switch settings seem to corroborate the schematic (#2 DIP switch -UP for flooded battery). That all makes sense and seems like a logical design.

There does seem to be something that's a little misleading on the second schematic, to me. In the lower left hand corner, there are two "DIP SWITCH SETTING DETAIL" graphics. The left for Aspire configuration and the right for Anthem/Cornerstone. The left graphic indicates that DIP 1 UP for flooded batteries and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate. The Anthem/Cornerstone graphic shows DIP 1 down and DIP 2 UP for 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.

According to to the SunSaver Duo owner's manual, DIP's 1 & 2 are used to select flooded (UP) or sealed (DOWN) and DIP #3 sets the 90%/10% house/chassis charge rate.

IF I've got that all correct, it's starting to make sense. I'll have to check volts sometime when I've at the coach.

Thanks, again for the schematics.

May I ask where/how you got them?

Take care,
Stu
Stu, full disclosure, I think it was someone else here on the forums posted the schematic a while back, sorry can't recall who, I just saved the file for future reference. Entegra should provide it though if you find the right person to ask.

As for the dip switches I agree with you and everyone else, the diagram is correct on the schematic but the call-outs are misplaced.

Dip switch #1 is for the House Battery Type so should be OFF for Anthems, Cornerstones and 2017 or newer Aspire's, or anyone that has upgraded their house bank to AGM. It should be ON for 2016 and older Aspire's that come stock with wet cells.

Dip switch #2 is for the Chassis Battery Type and they are technically wet cells so should be ON.

Dip switch #3 is for the Charge Priority and the 90/10 makes sense so should be OFF for all coaches.
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:03 PM   #25
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Stu, full disclosure, I think it was someone else here on the forums posted the schematic a while back, sorry can't recall who, I just saved the file for future reference. Entegra should provide it though if you find the right person to ask.

As for the dip switches I agree with you and everyone else, the diagram is correct on the schematic but the call-outs are misplaced.

Dip switch #1 is for the House Battery Type so should be OFF for Anthems, Cornerstones and 2017 or newer Aspire's, or anyone that has upgraded their house bank to AGM. It should be ON for 2016 and older Aspire's that come stock with wet cells.

Dip switch #2 is for the Chassis Battery Type and they are technically wet cells so should be ON.

Dip switch #3 is for the Charge Priority and the 90/10 makes sense so should be OFF for all coaches.
Rob,

Why are the Chassis batteries considered "technically wet cells"? I had actually thought they were AGM as well and to be honest I have never checked them for water level. The Sun Saver Controller had all switches off and that just reinforced my thought they were AGM. Ugh, that is what ones gets when assuming.

Did check the 30 amp fuse today and it was blown. Replaced it and now have voltage on both battery banks when I check it with the volt meter. The remote still does not function correctly.

Jim
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:08 PM   #26
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Jim, don't know about the newest Entegras, but 100% sure on my '17 which has two of these flooded chassis batteries:

https://www.harrisbattery.com/produc...acid/c31s-12fh

Another sign they are wet is the corrosion I regularly need to clean off.

It's hard to tell without removing them if there is access to the electrolyte, but I think there might be. I sent an email inquiry to Harris asking the question, will update when I hear back.

Maybe your remote is bad, or perhaps the cable. Remove the remote, find a known good standard flat satin telephone cable (minimum 4 conductor) and plug the remote in directly at the controller, that should isolate either the cable or the remote as being bad.
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:43 AM   #27
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Hey Stu, can u tell me where your Duo Controller is installed exactly? Just a matter of curiosity here, as I’ve never actually seen mine.
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:02 PM   #28
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Hey Stu, can u tell me where your Duo Controller is installed exactly?
As I best recall (it's been a few months since I had 'eyes on' the Duo Controller), it's in the mid-rear passenger side storage bay, very near to the Electrical Disconnect Switches:
Click image for larger version

Name:	Electrical Disconnect.jpg
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ID:	232791

It's up near the top of the storage bay (red arrow) and you need to remove a velcroed panel to access it.

Happy hunting.

Take care,
Stu
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