Community Forums

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harryn

If you really want to keep a "remote" battery charged, it takes a battery to battery charger, not just a "connection".

Every battery type and every battery temperature condition changes the charge voltage and conditions required to make them last.

Even if you have identical engine start batteries in your RV (located near the engine compartment), the charging conditions for your TOAD in an engine compartment that is cooler will be different. Inevitably there is also voltage drop from the RV to the toad.

This partial charging is about as tough on a lead acid battery as it gets.

Example battery to battery chargers are ctek and sterling, probably there are also others.

An alternative is to have a small solar panel in your toad and use it to keep the starter battery charged up.

None of this will completely eliminate the problem, but it will reduce it significantly.

I'm having trouble understanding. The jeep was towed cross country three times with no issues. Since we have come home, it has been put back into DD service. That battery has been fine. Further, after disconnecting the remote brake and towing home, some 900 miles, with the power steering no the battery was fine. Something changed. it's odd to say the least

BFlinn181 · 10-02-2018, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buddy110

I'm having trouble understanding. The jeep was towed cross country three times with no issues. Since we have come home, it has been put back into DD service. That battery has been fine. Further, after disconnecting the remote brake and towing home, some 900 miles, with the power steering no the battery was fine. Something changed. it's odd to say the least

I think you've decided it's the auxiliary brake. I'd put it in the passenger footwell and drive around with it. I suspect your compressor is coming on far more than it should. This might be a bad air connection or a bad air pressure switch. If when driving it around, you hear the compressor coming on when no air has been needed (for braking) you'll have additional information. If you don't hear the compressor too frequently, then I'd feel for a hot circuit board or a short. Something has changed and your battery seems to be O.K.

I also have to take issue with harryn. His statement, "If you really want to keep a "remote" battery charged, it takes a battery to a battery charger, not just a "connection"." If his statement was true, then no multi-battery installation could be possible without his battery chargers being connected between each battery pair. Two like batteries will come to equilibrium when connected together, whether adjacent or 'remote' given proper gauge wiring. Can you imagine an electric golf cart with chargers at each battery? If the engine alternator sends a charging voltage to one battery, it will automatically also be shared with the next one.

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I think you've decided it's the auxiliary brake. I'd put it in the passenger footwell and drive around with it. I suspect your compressor is coming on far more than it should. This might be a bad air connection or a bad air pressure switch. If when driving it around, you hear the compressor coming on when no air has been needed (for braking) you'll have additional information. If you don't hear the compressor too frequently, then I'd feel for a hot circuit board or a short. Something has changed and your battery seems to be O.K.

I also have to take issue with harryn. His statement, "If you really want to keep a "remote" battery charged, it takes a battery to a battery charger, not just a "connection"." If his statement was true, then no multi-battery installation could be possible without his battery chargers being connected between each battery pair. Two like batteries will come to equilibrium when connected together, whether adjacent or 'remote' given proper gauge wiring. Can you imagine an electric golf cart with chargers at each battery? If the engine alternator sends a charging voltage to one battery, it will automatically also be shared with the next one.

That was the suggestion from Roadmaster. Plugged it in and left it alone for about 1/2 hour. The wife was sitting in the car. It did not cycle on. I'll check for a short.
I'll hook it up this weekend and see what amperage draw I am getting

brobox · 10-02-2018, 06:16 PM

Just me personally, I have never had any success with electric assist brake systems. I gave up and now use a 100% mechanical system that has been problem free for me, now on it's third MH. Might not be what others prefer, but it ended my brake system problems.

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

Just me personally, I have never had any success with electric assist brake systems. I gave up and now use a 100% mechanical system that has been problem free for me, now on it's third MH. Might not be what others prefer, but it ended my brake system problems.

Air force one?

brobox · 10-02-2018, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buddy110

Air force one?

No a Ready Brute tow bar with the built in Ready Brake. 100% cable operation on the toad brake peddle. Simple, but it works perfect.

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

No a Ready Brute tow bar with the built in Ready Brake. 100% cable operation on the toad brake peddle. Simple, but it works perfect.

I have a trail x open car trailer with surge brakes. I'm not a fan because the grab suddenly. I don't think you'd feel it so much in the MH but I sure do feel it in my Ram

brobox · 10-02-2018, 06:45 PM

I have probably 60,000 miles with the Ready Brake and never a problem. Works perfect in panic stops, no dead batteries, no stuck compressors. It's a proportionate brake, not surge. Works for me and takes less than an hour to change it to another toad.

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

I have probably 60,000 miles with the Ready Brake and never a problem. Works perfect in panic stops, no dead batteries, no stuck compressors. It's a proportionate brake, not surge. Works for me and takes less than on hour to change it to another toad.

It has a surge actuator. How does that proportion braking?

brobox · 10-02-2018, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buddy110

It has a surge actuator. How does that proportion braking?

Ready Brake and Ready Brute Home

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

Ready Brake and Ready Brute Home

Yes, I was reading about that.
Thanks Brobox!

YC1 · 10-02-2018, 07:44 PM

I might have missed it but have you used a voltmeter to check the voltage on the toad battery when connected and the rv is running?

buddy110 · 10-02-2018, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

I might have missed it but have you used a voltmeter to check the voltage on the toad battery when connected and the rv is running?

Not yet. I plan to diagnose this weekend. We got home late Thursday night and I have been running raged ever since

harryn · 10-05-2018, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I also have to take issue with harryn. His statement, "If you really want to keep a "remote" battery charged, it takes a battery to a battery charger, not just a "connection"." If his statement was true, then no multi-battery installation could be possible without his battery chargers being connected between each battery pair. Two like batteries will come to equilibrium when connected together, whether adjacent or 'remote' given proper gauge wiring. Can you imagine an electric golf cart with chargers at each battery? If the engine alternator sends a charging voltage to one battery, it will automatically also be shared with the next one.

I can understand your frustration and doubt.

Two batteries sitting side x side or in very close proximity typically have nearly identical temperature and chemistry. The very short wire runs mean that the voltage drop is very small between them.

In a longer run, example:
- Toad in the back - engine compartment at 75F
- engine battery in engine compartment temperatures - 90 - 100F
- engine battery in the front of the vehicle, round trip wire run of 40 - 60 ft
- Potentially different battery brands or some AGM, some flooded.

Under these conditions, it is easy to see how there could be 0.5 V or more difference in the actual voltage in the wire at the toad battery.

Equally, a battery at 100 F has a different charge voltage profile than one at 75 F.

Tell you what - if you try it and it makes your battery go 2 years vs 1, you can buy me a coffee. If it doesn't work, you can tell me I am full of it and I will buy you a coffee instead.