Community Forums

hikndog · 12-13-2015, 12:09 PM

I need to change about 5 of the coach running lights on the front and rear end caps at the top. They are sealed with black caulk. How have you guys been dealing with that? Was thinking of an Exacto Knife around the edge of the light but hate the idea of recaulking since I do such a poor job.

jimbo2013 · 12-13-2015, 12:54 PM

No choice, use masking tape if you can't free hand it

hogdriver · 12-13-2015, 02:50 PM

I recently had one lighting up about 10% of normal. I first dug around the perimeter with an exacto knife, then got lucky and got underneath the lens with a dull pocket knife. Removed lens, found a crack letting water infiltrate into led. I carefully removed the old silicone with a utility knife. ( I masked around the work area with blue tape to prevent paint scrapes). I put a lot of clear silicone in wire hole and made a thin "bed" of silicone to seat new light. Just like factory had done. After anchoring Using stainless screws (screws siliconed too) I sealed perimeter with black silicone. I taped most of front of lens to prevent smearing with silicone.

brobox · 12-13-2015, 03:20 PM

I am changing the top clearance lights to these that BigMoneySr posted. The factory lights are not sealed and will continue to fill with water and short out. Fill the hole with silicone when replacing the light and you don't have to be neat putting silicone around these as they are sealed lights. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...leds/599/1834/

The side lights have already been changed to these for the same reason and more are being added to flash as turn signals. Big Rig Chrome Shop - Semi Truck Chrome Shop, Truck Lighting and Chrome Accessories

BHutting · 12-13-2015, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdriver

I recently had one lighting up about 10% of normal. I first dug around the perimeter with an exacto knife, then got lucky and got underneath the lens with a dull pocket knife. Removed lens, found a crack letting water infiltrate into led. I carefully removed the old silicone with a utility knife. ( I masked around the work area with blue tape to prevent paint scrapes). I put a lot of clear silicone in wire hole and made a thin "bed" of silicone to seat new light. Just like factory had done. After anchoring Using stainless screws (screws siliconed too) I sealed perimeter with black silicone. I taped most of front of lens to prevent smearing with silicone.

My son taught me to use tape to create a clean edge and after applying the silicone, spray it with Windex. Windex makes the surface of the silicone slippery. Use your finger to smooth it out and remove the tape. Looks great when finished!

hogdriver · 12-14-2015, 04:36 AM

Cool tip. I will try the winded on silicone thing when my next light goes out and I replace all those things like BigMoney and Brobox.

brobox · 12-14-2015, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdriver

Cool tip. I will try the winded on silicone thing when my next light goes out and I replace all those things like BigMoney and Brobox.

Nice thing about those lights....they have a chrome bezel that hides any messy silicone application.

hikndog · 01-14-2016, 03:42 PM

Okay, have some of my lights pulled free and silicone removed. Discovered there are wire connectors for removing lights. The male part is on the light's wire to be replaced. Entegra says to leave the connector, cut the wire above and splice in new light. I would prefer to put new male connectors on the new lights rather than do a butt splice. My thinking is why have a wire connector and a splice? The problem is I can't find the male connectors. Entegra parts doesn't carry them or know where they come from. The light manufacturer doesn't know either. The shape is odd. Flat top and bottom and sides straight up then 45 degree angle in. Similar to a gambrel barn roof. Has anyone found where I can buy the 20 required male parts?

brobox · 01-14-2016, 05:00 PM

Won't the existing lights pull out far enough to unplug them and plug the new lights in? I have only replaced the side markers so far and there was enough slack to plug & play.

Do the new factory replacement lights not have the male plug on them?

hikndog · 01-14-2016, 07:30 PM

Yes you can pull the lights out far enough to disconnect them but the male end remains on the broken light. Your only option is to put new male connectors on the new light or cut the old off the broken light and splice them on to the new. New lights come with no connectors. HAPPY to buy new male connectors if someone can tell me where.

hogdriver · 01-14-2016, 09:21 PM

I noticed the 2016s at the Tampa show were sporting running lights like Brobox and BigMoney installed and have abandoned those Grote light fixtures.

brobox · 01-14-2016, 09:49 PM

Might try this company. I bought the female plugs to add the addition side maker/turn signal lights. Might call them and see if they have the male ends.
Big Rig Chrome Shop - Semi Truck Chrome Shop, Truck Lighting and Chrome Accessories

I have 2 clearance lights out and I am not going to replace them with the cheap factory lights, unless they are waterproof now. I will be replacing all of the clearance lights with the ones BigMoney used.

757driver · 01-15-2016, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

Might try this company. I bought the female plugs to add the addition side maker/turn signal lights. Might call them and see if they have the male ends.
Big Rig Chrome Shop - Semi Truck Chrome Shop, Truck Lighting and Chrome Accessories

I have 2 clearance lights out and I am not going to replace them with the cheap factory lights, unless they are waterproof now. I will be replacing all of the clearance lights with the ones BigMoney used.

Chuck,

Those lights from Superbrite LED's are what I used for replacement of the factory lights and the addition of extra (9 per side) marker/turn lights. They come with bullet connectors installed and worked great.

brobox · 01-15-2016, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 757driver

Chuck,

Those lights from Superbrite LED's are what I used for replacement of the factory lights and the addition of extra (9 per side) marker/turn lights. They come with bullet connectors installed and worked great.

I have the one step up on those lights (10 LED's) that I have changed the side lights to and they also have the bullet connectors. I am surprised that the factory lights have no connectors at all.

I will use the lights you used for the clearance lights as they look to be a perfect fit and they are plug & play in addition to waterproof. Glad to hear they worked perfect.