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Old 08-28-2016, 02:20 PM   #15
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Chuck, I think that's the plug. It's a long thin plug on the other side of the coolant reservoir. Our dash air is working, thank God, but Rick has silicone spray and will try to get to it. We are stopped for the night in GA - trying to decide if we want to hang here for a few days or try to make a run for home tomorrow. Or split the difference and come down into FL but hold short of the house until the storm passes. We're at Coastal Georgia RV...nice resort in Brunswick GA. Not too bad a place to sit for a few days. 😉


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Old 08-28-2016, 03:21 PM   #16
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If you are at Coastal, nice place, I would hang out until it passes which is suppose to be tomorrow, Why get stuck driving in it, if it hits, when you are at a nice spot. It would beat being stuck in a Walmart parking lot with the generator not working.
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Old 09-03-2016, 07:51 PM   #17
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Ended up coming home Monday. Didn't hit any rain until we were south of Tampa and it cleared as we were pulling into the driveway. Generator ran great until we hit some nasty road in the construction zone on 75. Now Rick should have time and tools to get that plug stabilized. If we run into any problems Chuck, we'll head your way. Thanks again to all for the help.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:36 AM   #18
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Glad you didn't stay at GA Coastal, they were right in the path. We had some heavy rain showers and 20 mph wind for a couple of days as the storm passed offshore, but thankfully nothing outside of local street flooding.

I have everything on hand if Rick wants to bring it down to the hanger, it won't take long to fix. I will be up your way to Charlotte RV to have my dash A/C checked out as soon as I make an appointment.
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:19 PM   #19
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Let us know when you are heading up...maybe we can meet for lunch?


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Old 05-21-2020, 02:40 PM   #20
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Does anyone know of a more permanent fix for this electrical connector. Before this trip I pulled the connector, sprayed it with contact cleaner, and put some dielectric grease on the female side of the connector. With that, here I am again...
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:14 AM   #21
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Use some good CDC contact cleaner/lube, then wrap the connector with some good fusing tape once re-inserted.....seems to be the only semi-long term solution, short of Onan/Cummins issuing a recall/TSB for something better by design, and we both know that's not happening!
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Old 05-23-2020, 04:24 PM   #22
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Wrap the plug like this, especially the wire ends. Some have used Silicone caulking where the wires go into the plug. I use rescue tape.
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:42 AM   #23
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Been messing with my Gen this weekend. Sometimes runs, sometimes stops with the code 36. Changed fuel filter, seemed to work until driving to Austin and it quit at the rest stop. I removed the radiator bottle to look where the plug with all the wires plugs into the "Gen Control Board", and the plug will not stay seated in the control module. I believe a small plastic clip may have broke off over time and not hold the plug firm in place. I can push and hold, and hit the prime button, and everything comes to life.

Not going to buy a $600 control module to hold the plug. (I think the plastic piece came off our the oval housing where everything plugs in) I'm going to modify the metal top plate covering the module and use 2 cable ties to secure the plug into place. Below is the plug that I cleaned and put the electric grease in, and the module removed from the Gen.

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I will update my fix on this.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:55 AM   #24
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Update, my generator ran fine after securing the wire plug that plugs into the main Control "Brain" on the generator. My plug would not stay plugged in without holding it down due to the plastic housing not holding the wire plug firmly into the control board module, and throwing the Code 36.

The board is easy to get to by removing the radiator overflow bottle with a 10 mm socket held on by 3 bolts on the top. This part is under a plate with 3 10 mm bolts, and will lift out once the cable is unplugged. To keep the plug seated in the control board, I used 4 small frame cable clips and bolted them on each side of the plug, and will use 2 cable ties to hold the plug firmly in the control board, and the generator runs as designed.

The Plate that covers the control module.
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Adding the frame clips.
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Will install this back in the gen, plug in the cable, and place cable ties over the top of the plug to hold it in.
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Hopefully the Control Module, which is about $600. is not being replaced on these typed of generatiors as "defective" because of a small plastic clip not holding the plug properly into the module.
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:28 AM   #25
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Mine has done the same thing for years. Every time it quit I would pull the plug and then put it back in and I was good for 3 months. I make sure you use contact spray on the plug as that seems to help
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:31 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mwoodofd View Post
Update, my generator ran fine after securing the wire plug that plugs into the main Control "Brain" on the generator. My plug would not stay plugged in without holding it down due to the plastic housing not holding the wire plug firmly into the control board module, and throwing the Code 36.



The board is easy to get to by removing the radiator overflow bottle with a 10 mm socket held on by 3 bolts on the top. This part is under a plate with 3 10 mm bolts, and will lift out once the cable is unplugged. To keep the plug seated in the control board, I used 4 small frame cable clips and bolted them on each side of the plug, and will use 2 cable ties to hold the plug firmly in the control board, and the generator runs as designed.



The Plate that covers the control module.

Attachment 287425



Adding the frame clips.

Attachment 287426



Will install this back in the gen, plug in the cable, and place cable ties over the top of the plug to hold it in.

Attachment 287427



Hopefully the Control Module, which is about $600. is not being replaced on these typed of generatiors as "defective" because of a small plastic clip not holding the plug properly into the module.


Actually years ago I was told the control module was the cause $600 later and 4 months after it was replaced the same thing happened. I was told the module was bad and only warranted for 90 days. Didn’t make sense to me so they put in a new module and I kept the one they said was bad.

The whole issue all along was the plug.
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Old 05-29-2020, 09:11 AM   #27
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No issues with this on the 2017 so maybe Cummins updated the plug?

Had it with the 2014, ended up cleaning up the plug and plugging it in, then putting a blob of silicone on either side of the plug and letting it dry before messing with it. The silicone held the plug in place and I had no problems with the plug itself until I sold the coach a year later. Not sure what happened after that!
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Old 07-01-2020, 08:26 PM   #28
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We finally came down to replacing the control board after many attempts at "securing" the connection. We tried crc contact cleaner, grease for connectivity, and tape to secure the connection. Finally bit the bullet and installed a new board today. From the instant we installed the new board it has worked as advertised...We've got 7 hours of run time dry camping with the auto start feature turned on so it is a solid fix.
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