HELP! Lost Power

[johnnyreno]

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

As the previous poster stated, your parking brake is AIR activated and has nothing to do with all of the other problems you are experiencing.

Once you have started the engine and have built up air pressure in your dual tanks to about 80-90 psi you can release the parking brake and drive the coach. If it doesn't move then your shoes are stuck to the drums and will have to rock them loose or bang on the drums trying to brake the shoes away from the drums.

Your steps needs power from the chassis battery to work.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

the steps may work on air mine do. mot sure on 2012

[DSL417]

I don't think anyone has mentioned, but the inverters will only show the coach batteries. The chassis battery charge can be checked by scrolling through the Command 30. Next screen after the coach battery charge. If the coach batteries are charged, as mentioned, the battery boost during start will help start when the chassis batteries are down. The question of why the chassis batteries are down is tougher as the coach has been on 50A shore power. Almost has to be a bad connection of some kind and the alternator didn't charge the chassis batteries on your last run. The inverters would seem to be managing the flow of power in the coach, and should have been charging the coach batteries. As this hasn't happened, I'd lean to bad chassis battery connections of some sort, or, transfer switch not switching back and forth between the two battery sets (although I'm not as sure on this one). I think I'd talk to Spartan Customer Service because of below.

I had a no start situation with my 2013 back into 2013. Working with their Customer Service, the tech (then Scot Wixson) had me cycle the keys from off to accessory 5 times (I seem to recall with 15 seconds between each cycle, and then hit the Battery Boost switch and attempt start completely. We had tried several other tricks before this and this was his "last resort". My point is, those guys have seen a lot, and I would have never thought of doing this. Coach started...batteries charged over the next 200 miles.

Turns out the batteries were sulphate out and long term had to be replaced. This condition then was accompanied with a couple of CEL and ABS faults, and the condition occurred with outside temps below 40 degrees. The faults and CEL didn't show when above 40. My point though is that if the batteries have been run low more than once, and no equalization (and no, I don't want to get into that debate), the batteries are probably shot and won't deep charge.

A lot of discussion, but I have been there. JMHO

[voltdoc]

One remote possibility is the "ignition solenoid" located in the front drivers side compartment. If your 12 is like my 13 there are two fuse banks there, one for items hot all the time and one for items hot only when ignition is on. The solenoid, usually silver with battery cable sized connections, switches on with ignition to feed the ignition fuse bank. Those solenoids are known to go bad over time or develop high resistance contacts. Don't remember all that is fed by the ignition bank but I know the dash camera and entry steps retract control are, I don't think genset start would be though. Worth a look anyway I suppose. For testing you could jump (short) the two large lugs on the solenoid with heavy gauge wire (like a jumper cable) or move one of the cables from one of the large lugs over to the other to bypass it. Good luck!

[DSL417]

I also forgot...that was after the Spartan guys had me tap lightly with a wrench on the starter at the bottom, passenger side of the engine

[brobox]

Originally Posted by johnnyreno

the steps may work on air mine do. mot sure on 2012

Your right Johnny, the early 14's and before were air actuated steps, I forgot about that.

I wonder what happened to the OP after all the great suggestions to his problem?

[DSL417]

Engine started and he is on the road????!!!!

[Gary.Jones]

Phil:

Sounds like you got it going. Please be sure and tell the rest of us what the resolution was or the steps that you went through to find the problem.

Gary

[Entegra_TX]

Thank you all for the wonderful insights.
Here's where I am right now.
I have tested the solenoid inside the panel under the drivers side seat. Used jumper cables (as suggested) to test. No spark or power of any kind getting to cables to solenoid. I am thinking as many have suggested this may be more of an issue with the chassis battery connections. The chassis batteries are only 1 year old. Also, the engine cranks up fine. So I don't believe its the actual batteries per se.
As for the parking brake issue, I don't believe the brakes are actually engaged because I can drive the coach, HOWEVER, the Spartan control panel gives a constant warning message stating that "Parking brake is engaged" and beeps constantly. This may be because the coach was parked when I first tried to start the gen and now it thinks the brakes are still engaged. Otherwise, when I put it into Drive and release the brake pedal and emergency brake, the air brakes actually release. I just dont want to drive it and chance causing more damage.

Does anyone know where the main solenoid from the chassis side is located? I looked a the electric manuals yesterday and think it may be under the coach behind one of the carpeted covers?? Also, any chance there is an inline relay or fuse which could have blown?

Thanks again for all the great suggestions and help and sorry for the delayed feedback. Been trying not to let this thing ruin our weekend.

Phil

[brobox]

Phil, I am not at the MH or I would check for you, but is there any chance the fuse or relay could be in the Spartan fuse block at the rear of the MH?

[757driver]

The things you mention that are not working (step, park brake warning message, also your power mirrors will not work) are all signs of power not getting through the silver ignition solenoid as Rob mentioned. If you have no power at that solenoid then follow that line back to the chassis batteries to find the problem. The chassis batteries are fine but the power is not getting through to the ignition solenoid.

[Gasman 2]

Phil, check the ground stud on the generator. The ground stud is located on the firewall above and left of generator as you look from the front (passenger side). Loosen and retighten. In the picture the stud is shown in red in center of picture.
It's buried behind a lot of wiring harness.
Richard

[757driver]

Phil,

In the front electrical compartment if you have the positive and negative studs (perhaps with red and black plastic covers on them) check there to see if you have 12v power. The positive post comes from a 150A fuse which may be located behind your house batteries on the back wall.

[Entegra_TX]

More investigative work done.
1. I traced the connections from the chassis batteries all the way to the "Big Boy" solenoid. I am not an electrician or mechanic, but from the simple use of a voltmeter, I believe there was no voltage across this solenoid. I'm not sure if it requires the ignition to be turned on or not but I did not have the ignition on at the time of testing/tracing. So, potential solution #1, replace this solenoid.
2. Big bro - I could not find a Spartan fuse box in the back of the MH. So not sure if you can provide any more details here.
3. I checked the ground connections in several places and none showed signs of corrosion. Including the ground lug at the Gen set.
4. I rechecked the the voltage to the silver solenoid in the compartment below the drivers side seat with the voltmeter and confirmed that 12V is making it to and across this solenoid.

So again, I think it is most likely the "Big Boy" solenoid from the chassis.
I am attaching a picture from the electric manual for my 2012 Anthem.
Those of you who are much smarter than me please advise if you have other ideas or if this seems to be reasonable. I have a repair guy coming out tomorrow and would like to try and minimize the amount of time needed to trouble shoot this issue (as possible).

Thank you all again!
Phil

[Gasman 2]

You stated you check for voltage across the big solenoid did you check from the studs on the solenoid to a good ground point?
Seems you should have voltage on one side at all times. Looks to be the one on the left if that's the coming from battery.
Richard