How to open a dead motorized engine cover

[RanNan]

Ditto. I have a 2017 Aspire and my compartment door failed today. It moves about an inch then stops.

[Magic-carpet]

Originally Posted by Cruzer

I replaced my bolts with clevis pins with hairpin clips. If the actuators are removed the gate actually isn't that heavy to lift open. It won't stay up by itself without a prop but the gate isn't that heavy. I tested a King Aire that had air cylinder to lift the gate - similar to the pneumatic cylinders used on Entegra's generator slide. I think this would be a better way for Entegra to go in the future. When the electric actuators fail they lock into position and you can' raise the gate. But if an air cylinder fails you can still raised the gate by hand. Worst case scenario if the cylinder is good but the solenoid valve won't open is to just disconnect an air line in the rear curbside compartment.

Mark, do you know if there is an air cylinder that would be somewhat of a direct replacement for the electric one that is currently being used?

[Matt D]

Having had an air pump fail, I can assure you any method of hatch assistance has it's own risks of failure.

If I modified ours, it would be to go to a fully manual setup. As Mark stated previously the hatch is quite manageable without assistance. If you could rig a lpair of latches,, that would be the easiest solution.

-Matt

[brobox]

The Classic hatches still work problem free. And faster to open. I guess I am one of those that if it is not broken, why fix it? Going to an air cylinder is another item to show up on a a post "Where is my air leak?" However there are others that prefer everything with a touch of a button and let their dealers worry about it.

[Magic-carpet]

I'd go back to a manual setup also if its possible. Having one motor fail a couple weeks ago and twist the bracket to the point of being unrecognizable is a good wakeup. Keep it simple and it works forever.

[rlwhite]

Originally Posted by Magic-carpet

I'd go back to a manual setup also if its possible. Having one motor fail a couple weeks ago and twist the bracket to the point of being unrecognizable is a good wakeup. Keep it simple and it works forever.

I'm with you Mike, don't understand why you would want to complicate a simple procedure. The hatch is light enough to lift, would definitely like to see a retro manual latch.

[Flanz]

Yup, mine just quit. Both motors toast and not sure if anything is bent. Waiting on parts, again, from Entegra. Engine cover only opened a few inches and then died had to work it closed.

I’ve asked Entegra CS if they had a manual retro for the engine door and got nothing for an answer. When I get to the factory I’ll be asking for a manual fix going forward.

[Magic-carpet]

This is why the motors fail. Full of water. They were not designed or sealed for use in the environment that they are being used. I hope the new ones are better, if not, its only a matter of time before they fail also.

[DeeGee]

Wow, what a positively yummy mess!

[brobox]

Jeanne, if I may suggest, wrap the motor seams and connections with rescue tape or silicone and see if that help with water penetration. Just out of curiosity, does it say where the motor was manufactured? I have a feeling it won't be Elkhart IN.

It is a shame they had to abandon a perfectly good work door system.

[Magic-carpet]

Originally Posted by brobox

Jeanne, if I may suggest, wrap the motor seams and connections with rescue tape or silicone and see if that help with water penetration. Just out of curiosity, does it say where the motor was manufactured? I have a feeling it won't be Elkhart IN.

It is a shame they had to abandon a perfectly good work door system.

Chuck,... believe it or not, I did seal the top seams of the rubber boot on this motor with rescue tape two weeks after we got home with the coach. It still got water in it.... The machined surfaces in the photo did not have a gasket or seal of any kind though. Even though its got a rubber boot, I'm guessing that its coming in the top where the shaft moves in and out. No real way to seal that point unless you put seals on it like a hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.

Its only got a www.progressiveautomations.com label on it. No indication of where its made.

[brobox]

Originally Posted by Magic-carpet

Chuck,... believe it or not, I did seal the top seams of the rubber boot on this motor with rescue tape two weeks after we got home with the coach. It still got water in it.... The machined surfaces in the photo did not have a gasket or seal of any kind though. Even though its got a rubber boot, I'm guessing that its coming in the top where the shaft moves in and out. No real way to seal that point unless you put seals on it like a hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.

Its only got a www.progressiveautomations.com label on it. No indication of where its made.

As usual, you are one step ahead of me. I think I am now up to reason 16, "why I don't drive in heavy rain" Wait, that one doesn't count. I still own a classic.

[Magic-carpet]

Originally Posted by brobox

As usual, you are one step ahead of me. I think I am now up to reason 16, "why I don't drive in heavy rain" Wait, that one doesn't count. I still own a classic.

I'd hold onto that classic if I were you..!

[Magic-carpet]

Originally Posted by DeeGee

Wow, what a positively yummy mess!

I think it started out as white grease until it got churned together with rust...