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Old 08-29-2017, 12:48 PM   #1
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How to remove my frig???

Hello all,

The Maytag Frig in our 2012 Aspire 42 RBQ is leaking water from the bottom freezer drawer. Discovered that this is cause by a blocked / clogged Duck Bill fitting on the back of the frig. So, has anyone witnessed or performed the task of pulling the frig out from the cabinetry to get to the back of the frig? Looking for some advice before i try to tackle this.

Thanks!
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Old 08-29-2017, 01:01 PM   #2
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When I replaced mine I built a platform the same height (approximately 3") as where the refrigerator sits and removed the 3 screws in the bracket glued to the top of the refrigerator. With the help of a second person after emptying it we slightly raised and rolled it onto the platform. Be careful not to exceed the length of the power cord or water line.
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Old 08-29-2017, 01:34 PM   #3
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Before you remove it... this worked for me on a previous coach! Using a air compressor with an air wand ( harbor freight) access the drain hole with the Duck valve, ( mine was center, rear wall)blow air thru it.., add some soapy water.. drain it again... stopped my leak!
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:30 PM   #4
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First take the frig door off it makes things much easier. There is a plate glued to top of frig which you unscrew from ceiling, then remove plastic feet from bottom and remove screws going into floor. It is in there tight but it will come out. Electric plug was in cabinet next to frig. Good Luck
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Old 08-29-2017, 04:50 PM   #5
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Thanks for the advice and info. Much Appreciated!!
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:57 PM   #6
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We had same problem with ours. I fixed it a few months ago.

Reefer not that hard to remove, really.

Unplug reefer from dedicated ground fault receptacle under sink. Recommend tying a string to it to help get it back thru the hole in the side of the cabinet when reinstalling.

Lots of info on internet on all those type reefers plugging the duckbill drain valve so the condensate that melts during the defrost cycle cannot run thru drain. You can unplug the duckbill valve but that is a temporary solution.

Order the service kit for this fix that eliminates the duckbill valve and replaces the line with a P-trap type routing. Lots of info on this on internet search.

The reefer is held into the cabinet by screws in the bottom rib that nail it to the floor it sits on. use a ratcheting box wrench and hex #2 square bit to remove. Very tight to remove "normally"

The grill on the bottom just snaps in place so pull it outward and down to remove. Spring clips held mine on and it popped right off to expose the bottom Entegra added anchor screws.

other screws at top that lock reefer in as well as mount the spring loaded latches that keep the door closed traveling.

I , too, built a platform to roll it out on but it ended up being a pain in the ass sliding around on the floor. I would not bother with the platform personally. Easier to just inch it out a bit at a time, tip it toward you when you have it out far enough and the rollers will let you remove it from the opening.

Watch for the water tube leading to the drinking water spigot and ice maker. It is barely long enough to get the reefer clear of the opening.

I found it easier to securely tape the doors shut and use the edges of the doors and the door handles to manhandle the reefer.

It really is not THAT hard to get it out. it actually is easier if you have patience and just inch it a bit at a time. Just make sure you have all the screws at the top and very bottom out before you really get medieval tugging on it to move.

I actually got mine out by myself but it took some pulling and tugging to inch it out straight as it gets cocked and jams in the opening easily.

While you have it out look at the bottom of the reefer and find the drain pan that the condensate collects in to be evaporated by the cooling fan blowing air over it. My pan was cracked and leaking adding to the mess so it got replaced at the same time I had the reefer out in the floor. Obviously you need the slides out to have room to work when the reefer is out of the enclosure.

once out the parts you are interested in are at the very bottom of the back of the fridge and easy to access but it has to be all the way out on the floor.

I taped a string to the ice maker water tubing and routed it over the top of the reefer when reinstalling it to keep it from getting caught or kinked.

Call me 248.467.9347 if any questions or I can offer more help. AWC
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:56 AM   #7
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Al, good post. I had forgotten about the duck bill adapter kit that was posted for the earlier GE refrigerators. When I ordered my coach, GE appliances were in use, when it arrived I had Samsung and forgot about the duck bill problems.
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Old 08-30-2017, 11:32 AM   #8
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Al,

Wow, great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to write such detailed instructions. I found the P-trap that replaces the duckbill drain on Whirlpool W10619951 Tube-Drain - AppliancePartsPros.com

I believe this is the correct one. If i can find the part number for the tray, I'll might as well replace that while it's out.

Thanks Again!!!
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:47 PM   #9
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Just trying to "pay ahead" for all the info I depend on from the forum. Rare that I end up having the experience. Usually depending on others!!

I would recommend replacing that pan if you have the unit out on the floor. it is not that expensive.

Also, plan on tipping the reefer to one side (may need extra hands to help) and vacuum the condenser fins on the bottom. Mine were pretty dirty and plugged with dust. Impossible to clean from the front once the unit is back in and you don't realize how dusty they are until you tip it slightly to see the bottom.

Also, prepare yourself for the construction debris and dust and dirt in the reefer containment cabinet. Mine was full of sawdust, wire strippings, and all the usual construction debris.
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:07 AM   #10
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This thread is exactly why I cant stop reading this forum.... so many helpful and knowledgeable people with so much information. Wow! Love it!!

Gary
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary.Jones View Post
This thread is exactly why I cant stop reading this forum.... so many helpful and knowledgeable people with so much information. Wow! Love it!!

Gary
Couldn't agree more!!!!!
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:57 AM   #12
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How to remove my frig???

Sorry but I forgot to mention I used 2 rubber backed carpets under the platform so it wouldn't slide on the floor. I agree with Jestal, without them I'm sure it would be a skate board and not worth using. Also if you're ever unfortunate to have to replace your refrigerator in a campground as I did it will fit through the entry door. You'll have to remove the refrigerator doors, entry screen door, door stop and front seats. In our location at the time it was better than going through the drivers side window.
All just my experience. FWIW
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C310 View Post
Sorry but I forgot to mention I used 2 rubber backed carpets under the platform so it wouldn't slide on the floor. I agree with Jestal, without them I'm sure it would be a skate board and not worth using. Also if you're ever unfortunate to have to replace your refrigerator in a campground as I did it will fit through the entry door. You'll have to remove the refrigerator doors, entry screen door, door stop and front seats. In our location at the time it was better than going through the drivers side window.
All just my experience. FWIW
Steve
Another great tip, thanks Steve!!
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:04 PM   #14
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I laid an old heavy bed spread on the floor to get the reefer out onto so it would have something to slide on if necessary without hurting the tile.

The other thing I did after replacing the condensate catch pan was to add a length of small tygon tubing routed from the condensate pan to the front grill of the reefer. Tie wrapped in place and plugged the open end with a golf tee.

The plywood floor of the cubicle was water stained noticably. I suspect that the defrost cycle had just happened before we moved the coach and the pan was full of water and it sloshed out. Now I can check it with the tygon tubing. just take out the golf tee and give it a good suck with a turkey baster kept close by for just this purpose. Even a large syringe would work and fit under the reefer for storage. It turns out to be more a curiosity than a real issue as I have only gotten a few ounces of water out of the pan on one occasion. But, this is the sort of thing that is forgotten when putting a residential reefer into a coach. Listening Entegra?
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