Community Forums

Butte64 · 03-04-2017, 02:06 AM

A friend is trying to take delivery of an Aspire and is having a major problem with jacks. The jacks operate but end up with excess slope warning before getting level. This is on a site that is not far from level and other coaches have no problem.
Have others had this problem?
Are Aspires more limited in leveling capability than other brands?

Brian W · 03-04-2017, 04:38 AM

Sounds like the leveling system needs a zero reset. I have leveled my '17 Aspire on a pretty decent slope with no problem.

jbhobbs54 · 03-04-2017, 04:40 AM

The Aspire level just like the others, no restrictions. My hunch is that the leveling control needs to be reset. IE level the coach and set the zero point.

sweetandsour · 03-04-2017, 04:53 AM

My Anthem has always leveled pretty good, needing only minor adjustment to get it to my satisfaction. The last couple of times i tried to level, it would lift the rear wheels off the ground (on a level spot). Nirvc--Atlanta set the null again and so far no more problems.

brobox · 03-04-2017, 05:26 AM

It's called "Setting the Null" in the Equalizer owners manual. Very easy....you will need a carpenters level and hopefully a good level ground to set the null. I had to set mine twice when I first got mine it was so far out.

It is not uncommon for the null to be reset once a year or so, it's normal and why it is in the owners manual.

Leveling is an items that should have been checked by the dealer as part of the delivery check list, but if his dealer was like mine, they didn't check anything except if my check cleared.

Victory Blue · 03-04-2017, 06:53 AM

To set the null when the coach is level to your satisfaction: with the system power button off, old down the auto level button and turn on the power. You'll hear a beep telling you the null has been set.

The null can be set with the jacks in any position, including stowed, if the coach is level.

Mwoodofd · 03-04-2017, 07:03 AM

What year model Aspire. The earlier years (like my 13 Classic) does not dump the airbags soon enough, and most of the time tries to just go further up, and not down. I end up starting Auto level, and when the bags dump, stop the process, lower and restart if I am on a bad slope. I usually have to manually adjust anyway when on a bad slope, or find another spot. There is a program fix for dumping the air bags sooner in the process from equalizer if this Aspire is in the Classic years.

Victory Blue · 03-04-2017, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mwoodofd

What year model Aspire. The earlier years (like my 13 Classic) does not dump the airbags soon enough, and most of the time tries to just go further up, and not down. I end up starting Auto level, and when the bags dump, stop the process, lower and restart if I am on a bad slope. I usually have to manually adjust anyway when on a bad slope, or find another spot. There is a program fix for dumping the air bags sooner in the process from equalizer if this Aspire is in the Classic years.

The same thing happens on the 17s. The dump valve isn't open long enough during the leveling process to completely dump the air.

Like Mark (and using PJ's advice) I use a 2-step process. I stop the process after hearing the air dump, put the jacks up manually (don't use all retract per PJ) and then use auto level a second time.

Gary.Jones · 03-04-2017, 08:55 AM

Yep..... his null is out of whack at least. However, as Chuck and others have said, it is a simple fix. My autolevel was so out of whack that then I was still on the selling dealer lot and tried the leveling process, the jacks torqued the chassis (twisted) so much that I could not get the front door open or closed. I thought I had a bad door, but the jacks had the chassis really twisted out of flat. I had it adjusted by the factory Equalizer guy in Middlebury and when he was done with it, it was better but still not good (the door opens but the screen door would not open without being forced)..... so I level the coach myself with a 12" plastic bubble level placed on the first full polished tile in the coach. I let the coach drop, and sometimes drop again like others have said, and when it is sitting on the chassis, then I manually use the leveling buttons to do the level myself. I am getting pretty good and can usually get the bubble centered with at most 2 tries either with front and back jacks (fore and aft) or side jacks for left right level. If the nulling doesn't work for you..... buy a level and try doing it yourself !

Gary

brobox · 03-04-2017, 09:34 AM

Gary, if you cannot set the null, or it does not hold, the gyro brain in the basement might be bad. That happened to the TS and was replaced at my PDI and worked perfect after that.

Gary.Jones · 03-04-2017, 10:07 AM

Chuck

Never knew there was such a thing... I will look into it.

Unless my spot is very bad (and I am likely to try to get a different one if it is), I have found that I do better than my autoleveler, so maybe there is still a problem or something. What I have noticed is that my autoleveler seems to raise the right side of the coach (lets say) and raises it too much and then raises the left side to match, and then the right side seems to go more than it should, and then the left side tries to match. It just doesn't seem to ever do it right. And the Equalizer guy at the factory has worked on it two times, and it still is a waste of time, so I just do it myself. So, I stop it when the coach is on the blocks and then raise the low side to level and that is usually it.... no repetitive raising and balancing. So, I will try to read up on the gyro and see what I learn about it. And I have found that 60% of the time, I just let the coach sit at ride height and leave the whole thing alone. I can live with a slight tilt one way or the other....

Gary

Marcosdad · 03-04-2017, 10:42 AM

On our Aspire, the leveling "gyro" as Brobox calls it was installed backwards

It gave a wild ride trying to autolevel, but after being squared away, worked OK. On our Cornerstone, after multiple nullings and always getting the identical out of level result, I tipped the rig out of level in the opposite direction and nulled it there. Then the auto level worked fine.

bullydogs1 · 03-04-2017, 02:25 PM

Bet the rent the leveling box in the front pass thru bay on the top is mounted 180 degrees about....Take a look and take it down and when you do you will see what end goes to the front...the wires coming out of it should be at the rear of the box..not the front...the wires didn't have enough slack and whoever mounted it did it to just pass....it didn't get caught at PDI because NIRVC at the same was at the old building which the parking lot was on a slope...Once I did that and mounted it better, then I reset the zero point in a level garage. And it has been fine since.

brobox · 03-04-2017, 02:50 PM

Equalizer, from what I was told by the rep that replaced mine at TS, does not like to replace those unless they have to as the computer brain was over $1,000. He called it the gyro. Mine would not hold the null, or would do like Gary's is doing...it had a mind of it's own.

Here is a simple way to check the leveling without have to get a level out. A two pack of these are available at Walmart in the RV section for a couple of dollars. The double sided tape that comes with them is to soft to hold level, I used the 3M gray double sided tape, works much better. One in the drivers side cabinet and one in the forward cabinet above the steering wheel and you can check the level without getting out of the drivers seat, just open the cabinet doors. Also makes it simple to do a quick adjust without getting out of the seat.