Macerator hose replacement, cam lock fitting

[Rollin101]

Originally Posted by KiteSquid

Try camlock direct dot com.

I have no connection with nor can i vouch for this company as I have not conducted business with them.

I used them and they were fine.

[vsayler]

After spending some time in the small macerator hose storage area its clear that without

(1) some extension as Dave suggested, or
(2) adjustment of the pipe where it comes into the compartment in my coach {to move it out from the wall and away from the floor}

there is no room for putting any kind of a release, in fact just screwing it back in like it was is hard.

I had 2 hose clamps holding on the screw end to the hose and had to take one off because it was making it hard to rotate the hose.

Still working on this, the picture below shows the pipe coming out of the wall and how little clearance there is. The picture should be rotated to the right by 90 degrees to be correct.

As a side note, this pipe end rocks a bit from where it is coming out of the macerator area.... not sure if that is going to turn into a leak or not

[photraveller]

Van, looks just like mine. I did not put a camlock fitting back in the compartment either. I wanted to, but then I didn't want a big rigid stub out making even more torque on existing pipe.

I had a little side to side movement, but to me it felt like the pipe was just unsupported a little. Unsupported pipe probably isn't a good thing over the long haul, but I didn't end up doing anything about it.

I had a bear of a time getting the new hose threaded back in, until I asked my wife to help by holding the hose extended and rotating the other end as I screwed it in. It went real easy with her help.

Steve

[brobox]

Van, after looking at the photo, Rollin101 mod might be the best answer. Do it once and forget it. Easy to change hoses, break the vacuum for storing, opening the gray water for full-time draining. Just a thought.

[vsayler]

Brobox, Its tempting. If I find that I have a leak and have to go to the effort of accessing the macerator area then I will probably do it.

A while ago I cut the big front panel that covers the whole bay and macerator in two (at the top middle) so I could move it aside to get to the hose reel to line it up with the hose feed through that same panel. So its easier to get that panel off because I only have to undo 1/2 of the connections through it, but still hoping to avoid that.
Van

[Gary.Jones]

Dave

I would like to see your version as that sounds like what I was trying to rig up (and I bought all my cam-locks at Tractor Supply and they did not have what I needed for my version).

Gary

[Gary.Jones]

VAN

If that is a female threaded standard size connector, insert a 90 degree elbow, a short length of PVC pipe, and other 90 elbow and the mount the sanicon female.... that will get you away form the wall of the box and give you enough room to slip the ears on the sanicon fitting.

Also, any chance that you can simply remove the threaded connector we see in the picture?

Gary

[Rollin101]

See Stu’s post for vacuum breaker for what I did.

[vsayler]

Here is a picture of what I installed today and which I will test for leaks tomorrow (using grey water :>)

As noted before you must mentally rotate this picture to the right by 90 degrees. There is a cam lock attachment at the bottom where I can quickly remove the hose if I want to.

Gary, I can't use an angled connector in there because you can't screw it in, I can barely screw in a straight one as it is really tight in the corner.

This hose I am using is slightly flexible so I can bend it a little bit to open and close the cam lock, which I wouldn't do often. I haven't tried pushing the entire length of the macerator hose into the storage area with this assembly in the way, it will make it harder.

Van

[Gary.Jones]

Excellent idea and excellent implementation. That is kinda like i wanted to do with my set up before I realized that my coach side connector already came loose (~$250 mistake). I was going to cut my 30' Sanicon hose to a length just long enough to get out of the compartment, then add a female fitting to the cut hose, and a male camlock to the other end of the cut hose so that I could break the hose connection just outside of the coach. Similar idea. However, I couldn't find a supplier for the connection to the hose.

Getting the whole hose back into the compartment is tight the way that it comes from the factory on mine. I have found that if you grab the hose about 2 feet from the outside wall of the coach, and then take what you grab back the whole way to the back of the compartment so that the hose lays around the outer perimeter of the compartment, I can easily get it all in. You might find that it is in your best interest to leave the hose disconnected when putting it back into the compartment and make the connection only just before you dump.

Keep us advised of how things work for you and how satisfied you are. Your solution is simple and avoids a whole lot of problems in the solution that others have adopted (IMO) and I would be very interested to see what your opinion is after 6 months (or sooner).

Oh and on your pictures being oriented correctly, I have found that the only way a picture I take on my iPhone 10 is right is if I take the picture in landscape mode and with the button to press on the right hand side... those always seem to come out right... any other orientation comes out wrong.

Gary

[vsayler]

As I showed this is my last picture I had a leak where I screwed the extension in. Tightening didn’t stop it. Turns out I should have used more teflon tape, maybe as many as 4 or 5 turns. Instead I got silicone based pipe thread sealant. That stopped it. So I seem to have completed this project
Van

[dcphil_98]

Originally Posted by Gary.Jones

Dave

I would like to see your version as that sounds like what I was trying to rig up (and I bought all my cam-locks at Tractor Supply and they did not have what I needed for my version).

Gary

Gary; Probably more than you wanted to know.

Pic#1 Sewer hose receptacle inside compartment
Pic#2 Sewer hose extension
Pic#3 Sewer hose extension installed
Pic#4 Sewer hoes connected to extension
Pic#5 Sewer hose drain end

All of the cam locks were bought at Tractor Supply. The clear hose is available at Loews/Home Depot. The sewer hose receptacle in the compartment may be different in coaches earlier than 2018.

My process is simple. Drain the tanks. Release the locks at the end of the extension. That will break the suction and allow the hose to drain. Walk down the hose to the drain. Remove the hose and stow.

I have found that there is plenty of room for the hose if you start by putting as much hose as possible deep into the compartment then fill to the outside.

Don't need any other sophisticated equipment.