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Old 09-22-2016, 02:18 PM   #1
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One warning and two new issues I need help with

On the second day driving from Central Texas to Ouray, Colorado (on a Sat. morning) I felt the coach miss a few times in the last 100 miles. It threw a code and a CEL. Spartan said it was a really bad code to get and I read where many were stuck in repair shops for days if not weeks getting this issue repaired. This was a low feel pressure in the fuel rail code and I needed to get it in a shop ASAP (I have the code written down in the coach and will post it later). I changed out the fuel filters and even though Spartan said that was not going to fix the issue I drove another 1700 miles and pulled the Million Dollar highway twice plus Monarch pass once pulling a F150 Supercrew and the engine never missed another beat. The CEL finally went out two days later and we made it home on Tue. without another miss or CEL. I suggest everyone carry spare filters and a filter wrench!

Now for what I need help with.

First the passenger side black windshield shade would not go down on our third day so the DW helped it get started and it went down correctly. She said it felt like it was n a bind and as soon as she freed it the shade wend down with motor power. It went up and down a few times at different campsites until Monday morning when we got ready to leave Ouray. Now it is stuck down and will not move. The screw holding that shade in and the screw holding in the white shade were almost falling out (these are both right side windshield shades and the screws are on the inboard side). They both will not tighten and it's like they are stripped but the threads look perfect (I understand the shade threads could be stripped). Anyone know what to do to fix the black shade where it will go up and down under power again and if the screws in the end of the shades should tighten?

The other item I need help with is the dash AC. I noticed the air was not cold on the way home and I pulled over and went to the back of the coach. I had the DW turn on the AC. The compressor is going on for one or two seconds then back off over and over again. I know this can be caused by low Freon but I think I remember reading someone having some other issue a few weeks ago. I do remember someone saying they had a loose wire on the AC clutch but this is not the issue with mine. The compressor clutch wire is secure. The condenser fan is running.

Thanks in advance,
Doug
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:29 PM   #2
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Doug,

Can't help with the AC but with regards to the shade screws they have most likely come loose from the roller inside. The shades need to be taken down and the shade roller removed from the end piece to screw it back together. Use locktite to keep it from coming loose in the future.
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:46 PM   #3
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Regarding the CEL, yes keeping spares onboard is important and I'm glad you fixed it.

Once the engine throws a CEL (depending upon the code and severity of problem) it will attempt to validate the code over the next series of key on events. Not all codes result in this behavior.

If it cannot validate the code, it will clear.

If it does validate, the engine may eventually enter the dreaded de-rate, or stop engine.

In our case, Dixie RV wasn't helpful in airing up our tires at delivery, and I ran the engine at high idle for around 30 minutes trying to air them up.

Later, the engine threw a CEL for a NOX sensor reading higher than it should have. I knew these facts were likely related, but spoke with Spartan and Cummins to be sure my understanding was correct.

In short, we took the gamble the CEL would self clear and continued to drive home. On around the 10th key on cycle after the initial code, it cleared.

It could have gone the other way.

-Matt
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:27 PM   #4
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This is what is inside the United shade tube ends and how they are supposed to be assembled. And as 757driver stated, you should put loctite on the screws when you have it apart.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Idle end replacement instructions.pdf (131.3 KB, 132 views)
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:28 PM   #5
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I changed out the fuel filters and even though Spartan said that was not going to fix the issue I drove another 1700 miles and pulled the Million Dollar highway twice plus Monarch pass once pulling a F150 Supercrew and the engine never missed another beat. The CEL finally went out two days later and we made it home on Tue. without another miss or CEL. I suggest everyone carry spare filters and a filter wrench!

Doug[/QUOTE]

Agree with carrying spare filters and a filter wrench, but for those that have had to change the filters while on the road, is it necessary to pre-fill the filter with fuel? If so, how? Siphon hose from the main tank, carry a one gallon container of fuel, or if your pulling a toad, disconnect and go find a fuel stop?

I've heard conflicting information about the need to pre-fill the filters, so just thought I'd ask before it happens to me.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:41 PM   #6
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Wow. Great job! Please do post the code so others will know. Glad your vacation wasn't ruined.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:55 PM   #7
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Jim, all I can offer is my small experience. On our last coach (Cummins ISC380) you could either pre fill, or not.

If you prefill, obtaining clean fresh fuel becomes an issue. Draining fuel from the low point in a tank with questionable fuel may be a bad idea. If you carry fuel, how do you ensure it isn't too old? Biofuels are not a stable long term fuel. If you let it sit for a long while, it isn't so much diesel anymore as the individual components that comprise biofuel.

If not, I would suggest changing just one filter at a time. In fact, I'd suggest changing the actual fuel filter, restart and run for 5 minutes to purge any air. Then, change the fuel/water separator and run.

After changing either filter or fuel/water separator, turn the key to ON, do not start, for 30 seconds, then OFF, then repeat 5-6 times. This will run the lift pump to "prime" the fuel system as much as possible.

This way, you're not trying to eliminate a big slug of air just by cranking.

I've changed both at the same time without prefilling, and this results in a considerable amount of cranking. This can be alleviated by using the lift pump.

In addition, the fuel/water separator has a manual prime lever built into the rubber cover.

I carry filters and tools to change them, not extra fuel.

-Matt
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:20 PM   #8
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Jim,

In Spartan class they told us to prefill the primary filter 10 micron (FS-1065 for example) but to install the secondary filter 2-5 micron (FF-63009 for example) dry because if any dirt gets by this one you are screwed. As Matt said, on and off with the key 4 times for 30 seconds to fill the secondary filter.
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt D View Post
Jim, all I can offer is my small experience. On our last coach (Cummins ISC380) you could either pre fill, or not.

If you prefill, obtaining clean fresh fuel becomes an issue. Draining fuel from the low point in a tank with questionable fuel may be a bad idea. If you carry fuel, how do you ensure it isn't too old? Biofuels are not a stable long term fuel. If you let it sit for a long while, it isn't so much diesel anymore as the individual components that comprise biofuel.

If not, I would suggest changing just one filter at a time. In fact, I'd suggest changing the actual fuel filter, restart and run for 5 minutes to purge any air. Then, change the fuel/water separator and run.

After changing either filter or fuel/water separator, turn the key to ON, do not start, for 30 seconds, then OFF, then repeat 5-6 times. This will run the lift pump to "prime" the fuel system as much as possible.

This way, you're not trying to eliminate a big slug of air just by cranking.

I've changed both at the same time without prefilling, and this results in a considerable amount of cranking. This can be alleviated by using the lift pump.

In addition, the fuel/water separator has a manual prime lever built into the rubber cover.

I carry filters and tools to change them, not extra fuel.

-Matt
Thanks Matt.

I guess if I ever get in that situation Ill try the "dry" install first, and if that method prevents a restart, I can always call Coachnet
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:00 AM   #10
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When I change fuel filters they are both dry. Spartan CS taught me that prior to starting the coach after changing the filters to turn the key on, leaving it on for up to 30 seconds, then turning the key off and then repeat that 10 to 12 times. This will cycle the fuel prime pump enough to fill each filter. I am always nervous about air locks, so I cycle the key on/off about 20 - 30 times and still hold my breath a bit when I first start the coach.
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:43 AM   #11
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So the code I got was SPN 157 FMI 18. I still don't understand why you would not want to change fuel filters as the first thing when this code shows up. I did not fill the filters as it is too easy to get trash inside and these systems must stay very CLEAN! I used the key on for thirty seconds method for seven or eight cycles. It took a while to get it started the first time (maybe 12-15 seconds) but it started finally and never missed again. Never let a starter motor turn more than 15-20 seconds at a time. Let it cool off between trying to start after changing fuel filters.

Here is a link to a thread talking about this code. Poor guy three days after getting his coach is broke down and it took weeks to get fixed! After reading that trash in the fuel tank could cause this code I decided to try the new filters even though Spartan told me they did not think filters were the issue. I have to admit that in the three years and 24,000 miles we have owned the coach I have NEVER carried new filters (I do change them on e a year). I ordered them the week prior to us leaving for CO.

SPN 157 FMI 18 Fault Code

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Old 09-23-2016, 12:54 PM   #12
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I have to admit that in the three years and 24,000 miles we have owned the coach I have NEVER carried new filters (I do change them on e a year). I ordered them the week prior to us leaving for CO.

Doug
Way to learn the hard way and come out smelling like a rose...outstanding!

I had 30,000 on the coach without a problem before I went to Spartan training where they urged us to carry spares. At 48,000 I was pretty happy to have the spare serpentine on Highway 5 in the middle of nowhere in the central valley. Took me twenty minutes to cool off and five to change the belt. The new spare belt is back in the spare parts box already.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:38 PM   #13
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Way to learn the hard way and come out smelling like a rose...outstanding!

I had 30,000 on the coach without a problem before I went to Spartan training where they urged us to carry spares. At 48,000 I was pretty happy to have the spare serpentine on Highway 5 in the middle of nowhere in the central valley. Took me twenty minutes to cool off and five to change the belt. The new spare belt is back in the spare parts box already.
Great deal. I had the DW get me a plastic container with snap on lid that holds two fuel filters, the air system filter and both belts (main engine belt and AC belt).


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Old 11-12-2016, 10:34 AM   #14
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Fault code SPN 157 FMI 17

Hi folks,
I have been trying to find out more about this code online and found your thread. I have a Cat C9 and am currently in La Paz on the Baja. Last year on the rough I5 near Los Angeles I got this code. I pulled over and stopped and called Finning Cat dealer. They had no idea what it was. After sitting about 20 minutes I restarted the coach and the fault was gone.

On this years trip, I am getting the code usually after driving a really rough road or an extremely long grade. Every time I pull over, shut the engine off, let it sit 5 minutes and restart, the code clears.

The coach is running fine. No other fault codes, temperatures are all good. I have been thinking about changing the fuel filters to see if that might be the issue but then again, if the fault code clears every time, is it that serious of an issue? Maybe it is an issue to do with the #2 diesel here in the southern Baja?

Your comments would be appreciated,
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