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Old 09-18-2019, 11:13 AM   #1
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Radiator Removal, Repair and Install

Please don't post until I have the second post done. I can only upload so many pictures at one time.

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Raise the rear of the rv all the way up till jacks stop.

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Drain fluid you will need 3- 5 gal. buckets.

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Remove the 10 sheetmetal screws. 5 on each side.

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Remove lower fan shroud bolts.

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Loosen the 8 fan bolts that connect fan to rad. channel mount.

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Remove bracket that holds upper rad. hose to intercooler.

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You may need to remove bolt from this bracket to remove upper rad. hose. You may find that it is easier to remove both hose clamps on the upper rad. hose. This is what I had to do to get it back on.

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Remove lower rad. hose. I used a small oil pump to get all the rad. fluid out of the rad. to not make a mess on the floor.

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Remove both rad. mount bolts. one each side.
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Old 09-18-2019, 11:31 AM   #2
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Use c-clamp to open rad. channel to remove rad.

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I used a vise grip c-clamp on this side.

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Use jack to lower rad. out of channel.

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Rad. removed.

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What it looks like with rad. out.

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What rad. looks like after repair done at rad. shop.

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Rad. ready to install.

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This sheet metal screw sticking through into the channel was a problem removing the rad. so I cut it off with a grinder.

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Install rad. and do everything in reverse. I used 10 gal. of fluid. I also didn't install the sheetmetal screws because they didn't line back up. I also think this is one of the reasons these rad. fail. The rad. and the intercooler are held in the corners and if the channel gets out of sq. then it can pull the rad. core away from the rad. tanks.
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Old 09-18-2019, 11:35 AM   #3
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I had 9 hrs in this project by myself. I would recommend doing this job with help. After driving the rv for a short distance recheck rad. fluid.
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Old 09-18-2019, 12:25 PM   #4
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Well documented, if I have to replace this one, I might try it myself. My only question was did the CAC stay in the coach without anything holding it up?
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Old 09-18-2019, 12:47 PM   #5
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The CAC has a bolt in each upper corner holding it in the rad. channel. The rad. was fixed with a special epoxy made for alum. rad. The price to get it fixed was $225 with a one year warranty. The rad. shop tested the rad. after the fix up to 30psi for 30 mins with no leaks. The rad. had 3 very small leaks that never dripped onto the floor of my pole barn.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:11 PM   #6
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Really outstanding and well documented.

Thanks for sharing.

-Matt
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:22 PM   #7
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Nice post and way more cost effective than replacing with new radiator.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:27 PM   #8
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Nice post, thank you for sharing and documenting so well.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:29 PM   #9
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Thor

Very nice job and an even better documentation of what you did for those that follow and want to tackle this project in the future.... Great job of documenting tasks and solutions for the cumulative encyclopedia of information that this forum represents.

Thanks!

Could you talk more about what the repair was and what it involved, and potentially a bottom line cost for the repair as you did it?

Gary
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:41 PM   #10
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Great job Thor. Basically the same process I used for my radiator removal and replacement, although I didn’t document it and opted for the new radiator vs repair.
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Old 09-18-2019, 06:59 PM   #11
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Nice job and excellent write up. I sure thought it would be harder to split that unit on the coach. You made it look easy. I like that repair job. It bet that will last longer than the Spartan supplied units we keep reading about here on the forum and you saved a ton of money also.
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Old 09-18-2019, 07:32 PM   #12
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You wouldn’t happen to know the brand name of the product they used would you? I would be curious to know how well this holds up over the long haul. Great writeup!
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary.Jones View Post
Thor

Very nice job and an even better documentation of what you did for those that follow and want to tackle this project in the future.... Great job of documenting tasks and solutions for the cumulative encyclopedia of information that this forum represents.

Thanks!

Could you talk more about what the repair was and what it involved, and potentially a bottom line cost for the repair as you did it?

Gary
The only cost I had was $225 for the repair and $210 for the rad. fluid. With a helper I think this can be done in a shorter amount of time. One thing I forgot to put in the write up is when you tighten the fan mount bolts make sure you center the fan in the fan shroud. If someone knows how I can put this in the write up please tell me.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead-54 View Post
You wouldn’t happen to know the brand name of the product they used would you? I would be curious to know how well this holds up over the long haul. Great writeup!
I was skeptical of the epoxy too, but after talking to the repair shop and hearing he has never had to repair one after the epoxy fix I figured I would give it a try. Sorry don't know the name of the product. He did sandblast the rad. where he fixed it before installing the epoxy.
He said that if it ever fails he could send the rad. off for a heavy-duty core to be installed into the tanks of my rad. This was going to be $2400 so I decided to try this first.
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