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Old 09-13-2018, 12:12 PM   #1
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Re caulking roof

We have a 2011 Aspire which needs removing and replacing the cauking. What is the best method of removal and does this need to be done in the shade. Thank you for your help
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:39 PM   #2
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Hello Jack,
There are a few ways to handle the caulking of the roof. 1) I chose to use eternabond tape and taped over the existing caulking on the roof. I am hoping it will last a very long time. I even removed the awning boxes and taped the joints under them. since your coach is three years older than mine, it must really need this work!!! 2) You could remove the old caulking as best you can and tape over the joints without leaving the caulking. You have to be very careful with the scraping so you don't hurt the roof. 3)Some people have taken theirs back to the factory and had the old caulking removed and a newer type of caulking installed. 4) Others have done it themselves. So you can see there are a lot of options, all you have to do is check out the different methods and decide how you want to handle it. Do you want to do it yourself, or do you want to hire it done? I'm sure you can find an RV repair shop near you that would do whatever you choose.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:20 PM   #3
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I chose to use Eternabond Tape and never have to worry about it again. Started the Eternabond Tape project, good thing I did
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:31 PM   #4
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Hello Jack,

If you do not go the ETERNA BOND Tape way, I used the Oscillating Multi-Tool by Chicago Electric Power Tools from Harbor Freight Item#62279 for $19.99 and used the rigid blade also from Harbor Freight to remove the old caulking and then used NuFlex 311 Self-Levelling RV Sealant which cost between $9 and $12 a tube, I bought a case of 12 from my local RV dealer and he sold them to me for just under $9 a tube. I think I have one or two tubes left over. Been two years and it still looks new with no cracking. I did it on a cloudy day with no chance of rain and with one other person helping was able to do most if not all seams in two days. Good Luck and I suggest you do it as soon as you can if it has not been done since the factory.
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:33 PM   #5
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I use eternabond tape on all the seams/joints(end caps and sides) . I used nuco 311 on the roof openings(vents antena etc). Use a multi tool with the appropriate soft material blade , it takes time but not to hard to do.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:04 AM   #6
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Removing the old caulk is best done when it is cold. I had mine removed and 6 inch eternabond placed over it. All has been well since.
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Old 09-17-2018, 05:34 PM   #7
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I removed all my old caulking and replaced it with Eternabond tape. In my opinion itís a cleaner look and better seal than going over the top of the old caulk. In fact I just finished mine up last week.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:15 AM   #8
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Yes between eternabond tape and dicore self leveling compound you have a winner.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:47 AM   #9
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I have recently changed my opinion on Eternabond tape for the roof. The tape I used did not prevent a leak like it should have. I used the eternabond tape on my roof seams like a lot of people did a few years back over top of the roof caulk. I recently developed a roof leak on the back of the coach. I inspected all the seams and could not find any obvious problems. I decided to remove the eternabond tape and sealant along the back cap. I found the white roofing material was cracked in front of the ladder where you step onto the roof. It was cracked along the edge of the original sealant but still under the eternabond tape. The eternabond did not keep it from leaking. What I think is worse is that it also hid the crack from view underneath the tape. I would have easily seen this before it became a problem if I had not used the tape. I am not sure if my eternabond tape was to blame or if the rough surface of the roofing did not allow it to seal properly, but the crack was fully covered under the tape and should not have leaked. I cleaned it properly and rolled it down good. It was stuck to the roof. I have had great success with eternabond in the past but something went wrong with it this time. I think it will probably work great to protect the current caulking (as long as it isn't silicone). When I tried to remove my eternabond, it pulled up chunks of the caulking underneath, so it stuck to it great. But because of my experience, I would not rely on eternabond only to seal my roof. If it was such a great sealant for that purpose then I would think the manufacturers would be using it there. There is probably a good reason that manufacturers use caulk there. That is just my opinion and experience.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:53 AM   #10
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I am going to have roof armor installed in spring at Phoenix.. no more worries
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:03 AM   #11
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Let me clarify, I use eternabond after cleaning the surface, and use dicor on the edges of the eternabond for a true seal.
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