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Old 08-19-2019, 06:48 AM   #1
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Replacing 3-inch Sewer Pipe & Flange

I am going to replace the sewer discharge pipe for the 3-inch sewer hose, all the way from the dump valve to the connection under the coach.


In the photos, does anyone know what type of sealant or glue is used to hold this firmly to the floor ? I wanted to contact someone at Entegra to ask, but wasn't sure what email to use.
I don't believe there is any mechanical attachment here, but can't tell for sure until I cut away the existing sealant. It looks like two different kinds as seen from the top and bottom in the photos.

Also, what type of PVC cement should I use ?




Thanks !
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:53 AM   #2
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Kenny

My advice....dont send an untargeted email to Entegra CS as the chances that it goes unanswered are near 100%. If you direct it to a specific person, your chances are much better. Incoming goes into a general incoming pile.... undirected tend to stay in that pile in my experience.

Call them on the phone... much quicker even with having to listen to that darn same song for 15 minutes....

By the way, nice neat job by the installer ----

Gary
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:35 AM   #3
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why are you replacing this pipe?
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
why are you replacing this pipe?

Underneath, where the bayonet fitting connects the sewer hose, one of the nipples broke off, making it useless (unless you want water leaking out)


Everything is glued all the way back to the valve, so it all has to be replaced.


.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:48 AM   #5
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Ken, the pipe is ABS so you want to make sure the glue specifies ABS.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:02 PM   #6
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Where the pipe goes thru the compartment floor is just calking to seal around pipe/floor opening
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Old 08-19-2019, 01:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Where the pipe goes thru the compartment floor is just calking to seal around pipe/floor opening

Yes, and I'm told Entegra uses NuFlex 302 general purpose. White on top and clear on the bottom.


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Old 08-20-2019, 04:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyGolub View Post
Underneath, where the bayonet fitting connects the sewer hose, one of the nipples broke off, making it useless (unless you want water leaking out)


Everything is glued all the way back to the valve, so it all has to be replaced.


.
You do not need to replace everything. Just cut the pipe close to the problem and install a pipe coupling as needed.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:00 AM   #9
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Looking at the photo it appears like it might just be two street elbows, probably easiest to replace it all.

ABS glue for the pipe. For the sealant anything that is compatible with plastic. A locally bought good brand of silicone should do the trick. Nuflex 302 is just silicone.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
You do not need to replace everything. Just cut the pipe close to the problem and install a pipe coupling as needed.

The parts (already ordered) are not expensive. Four nuts and bolts release the pipe from the valve. Then attach new pipe and seal at the hole. Done.


For me (who rarely cuts accurately even if measuring twice), it would be easier.


Thanks for the suggestion, though.


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Old 08-20-2019, 10:58 PM   #11
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Ken, with regard to sealing the pipe to the floor of the wet bay, my first choice would be 3M 4200FC (FC = Fast Cure) Marine Sealant, which is available in white or black. You can order it online from Amazon and elsewhere or you can buy it at any West Marine store. Just be sure to use 4200, not 5200. 3M 5200 forms a high-strength, virtually permanent bond, so you don't want to use it on anything you might ever need to take apart.


If you want to go with a silicone sealant, Home Depot and Lowe's both sell the GE 100% silicone sealant you see in the photo below. It's available in clear, white, black and maybe even one other color. This is the sealant I used to seal/glue the new kitchen sink I recently installed to the underside of the kitchen countertop. As Rob indicated above, it's the virtually same as the NuFlex 302 Entegra uses. The only difference is that the GE brand is easy to come by, while the NuFlex brand is not - at least not in Arizona where we live.
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LWBAZ View Post
Ken, with regard to sealing the pipe to the floor of the wet bay, my first choice would be 3M 4200FC (FC = Fast Cure) Marine Sealant, which is available in white or black. You can order it online from Amazon and elsewhere or you can buy it at any West Marine store. Just be sure to use 4200, not 5200. 3M 5200 forms a high-strength, virtually permanent bond, so you don't want to use it on anything you might ever need to take apart.


If you want to go with a silicone sealant, Home Depot and Lowe's both sell the GE 100% silicone sealant you see in the photo below. It's available in clear, white, black and maybe even one other color. This is the sealant I used to seal/glue the new kitchen sink I recently installed to the underside of the kitchen countertop. As Rob indicated above, it's the virtually same as the NuFlex 302 Entegra uses. The only difference is that the GE brand is easy to come by, while the NuFlex brand is not - at least not in Arizona where we live.

Thanks. I'll get the GE. I don't want to make it a big job to take apart again. I try not to make the same mistake twice, but who knows


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Old 08-21-2019, 05:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyGolub View Post
Thanks. I'll get the GE. I don't want to make it a big job to take apart again. I try not to make the same mistake twice, but who knows
.
Ken, So I and maybe others don't make the mistake, how did the flange get broken off. If traveling with the clear elbow in place, I am guilty of that.
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Ken, So I and maybe others don't make the mistake, how did the flange get broken off. If traveling with the clear elbow in place, I am guilty of that.

No, not traveling.
One of my Snap Pads tore when it sunk into the ground a bit. Snap Pad folks gladly replaced it.
I use the 3 inch flange all the time, rather than the macerator hose. To help keep the downward angle correct for draining, I had stacked two bricks underneath right at the flange.
So .... to replace the torn snap pad, I had to raise the jacks. I guess you can now see what's coming .... the coach settled and the bricks didn't want to go anywhere, so the one nipple broke off the flange. I guess it could have been worse.




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