Running wires for side signals

[bauschman49]

GASMAN,

Thank you. Very helpful site I have put into record. I am now rewiring my new side lights correctly. Live and learn.

[Smitty3509]

Originally Posted by Gasman 2

For those who are working on side turn signal projects this web site may help you.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

Richard

This is a good link! I've always used the relay method, and it works, but I think buying the module that they referenced is the way to go. The relays are a pain.

[757driver]

Originally Posted by Smitty3509

This is a good link! I've always used the relay method, and it works, but I think buying the module that they referenced is the way to go. The relays are a pain.

An interesting use of a DRL (daytime running light) module.

I like keeping everything simple and for the low power LED lights I tapped off the front 2 wire turn signal/marker for all my new side signal/marker lights (5 total), and tapped off the original amber side marker (in front of the drive axle) for the new marker only lights (4 total).

[bauschman49]

GASSMAN & others,

LIVE AND LEARN. The best way to do things is to fail on at least the first try. In so doing in my case I learned much. My mistake was to wire to the two amber "marker" lights on the front sides of my RV. Per the diagram GASSMAN provided I learned since these indicated lights are both running and turn lights, they are wired to the front bumper running/turning lights, and not directly to ground. They are small bulbs and work through the filament in the bulbs of the front bumper running/turning signals, which do have a third lead direct to ground.

I am rewiring to the front signals as soon as my supply of 3M pig tail connectors arrive by mail. I love those gel filled snap on connectors that handle 12-22 awg wire and provide a moisture barrier to the bare wires.

In the learning process of finding the correct way to hook up my lights I also discovered I have two flashers on my 02 Winne, one to the turn signals located under the dash near the steering column, and one to the 4-way flashers located under my flip up dash (this information I found on other posts with IRV2. The 4-way does not seem to be fused, but the turn signal flasher is. My issue with my turn signals not flashing was a "high open or short" in the 15 amp fuse. When I measured the fuse pulled out and only the fuse, it read 120 ohms when it should have read .1 ohms. From my telephone repairing days I knew I had a corroded or compromised condition inside the fuse.

Thanks everyone for the contributions on the IRV2 FORUMS. I have learned enough to be dangerous.

[Gasman 2]

Good deal, I have had my share of projects that have not turn out the way I thought they should.

Richard

[Mwoodofd]

Originally Posted by 757driver

I tapped off the front 2 wire turn signal/marker for all my new side signal/marker lights (5 total)

Same here - they are working great. I did not wire my end, side red marker to blink.

[757driver]

Originally Posted by Mwoodofd

Same here - they are working great. I did not wire my end, side red marker to blink.

I did not make the rear red marker light blink either, (did not seem right) but I did add a second marker light below it.

[Mwoodofd]

I will add 2 on each side over the rear wheels like most have shown, and will consider an Amber Marker in the rear - thank you. I have a 2017 on my mind, so my willingness to complete more mods is weakening...

[brobox]

Originally Posted by Mwoodofd

I will add 2 on each side over the rear wheels like most have shown, and will consider an Amber Marker in the rear - thank you. I have a 2017 on my mind, so my willingness to complete more mods is weakening...

I keep doing mods so I won't be tempted into a 2017

[Mwoodofd]

By the way, I got the "Green Light" from the DW to begin looking at the 2020 models - hopefully no more college expenses, so I am back to full swing at the mods. Now where are those lights?

[Gary.Jones]

Somehow, reading of these other false starts, I feel that I am now in good company.... and wiring to the wrong tail lights was not as dumb as I initially thought Here's to living and learning....

Gary

[Gary.Jones]

I thought that I would update this issue. My four new amber 10-LED dedicated turn signal lights on each side of my classic '15 coach (one below the camera on the front, and one under the red running light at the back corner, and then one between the drive and tag axles, and one right below the dock light in front of the drive axle). I wired the front turn signals to the corresponding normal front turn signal lights. Piece of cake! However, for reasons that I am not sure about, I did not feel comfortable running wires on the bottom of the coach back to the three aft turn signal lights (although that would be a piece of cake compared to what I did).

So, I followed what GasMan suggested and that is that I tapped into the plug on the forward wall of the drive axle wheel-well for the turn signal lights. There is a connector in each drive axle wheel well, and the Spartan wiring harness has three wires coming into it (ground, running, turn signal) but only two wires coming out (ground, running light). You remove the waterproof plug for the third wire (turn signal) on the "out" side of the plug and use that and the ground to pick up the turn signal voltage. Now, what is different is that I paid a tech to go up into the wheel-well and make that new connection. I went to a car/RV service company with two grease/lube pits and assumed that the tech would go into the pit, then stick his arms/hands up into the wheel-well to access the plug and make the connections. However, this guy was maybe 160 pounds wet, and he simply crawled under the coach on each side, and then pushed himself so he could sit on the concrete with his head, torso, and arms up in the wheel-well in front of the drive tires, and did all the connections from there. They charged me an hour labor for making the connections to the wire run for the back three lights that I had already installed and wired, so it was a 45 minute job to make the waterproof connections. Piece of cake. I am a little heavier and a lot older and although I might have been able to do that, it was worth a hour labor charge to let him do it.

And the lights look fantastic at night. Thanks to all that helped with suggestions and ideas on here in this forum.

Gary

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by Gary.Jones

I thought that I would update this issue. My four new amber 10-LED dedicated turn signal lights on each side of my classic '15 coach (one below the camera on the front, and one under the red running light at the back corner, and then one between the drive and tag axles, and one right below the dock light in front of the drive axle). I wired the front turn signals to the corresponding normal front turn signal lights. Piece of cake! However, for reasons that I am not sure about, I did not feel comfortable running wires on the bottom of the coach back to the three aft turn signal lights (although that would be a piece of cake compared to what I did).

So, I followed what GasMan suggested and that is that I tapped into the plug on the forward wall of the drive axle wheel-well for the turn signal lights. There is a connector in each drive axle wheel well, and the Spartan wiring harness has three wires coming into it (ground, running, turn signal) but only two wires coming out (ground, running light). You remove the waterproof plug for the third wire (turn signal) on the "out" side of the plug and use that and the ground to pick up the turn signal voltage. Now, what is different is that I paid a tech to go up into the wheel-well and make that new connection. I went to a car/RV service company with two grease/lube pits and assumed that the tech would go into the pit, then stick his arms/hands up into the wheel-well to access the plug and make the connections. However, this guy was maybe 160 pounds wet, and he simply crawled under the coach on each side, and then pushed himself so he could sit on the concrete with his head, torso, and arms up in the wheel-well in front of the drive tires, and did all the connections from there. They charged me an hour labor for making the connections to the wire run for the back three lights that I had already installed and wired, so it was a 45 minute job to make the waterproof connections. Piece of cake. I am a little heavier and a lot older and although I might have been able to do that, it was worth a hour labor charge to let him do it.

And the lights look fantastic at night. Thanks to all that helped with suggestions and ideas on here in this forum.

Gary

Ok, so where are the pictures?
jt

[DeeGee]

Dang, no one around here seems willing to do anything to a coach.