Community Forums

gizmo123316 · 07-03-2016, 09:31 AM

I have started the side signal project on my coach and would like to know which way everyone wired from the front signal to get to the rear of the coach. I have the right fender signals working and will be able to connect to them. (I would like to have the signals act as markers when not signalling}. Did you drill holes thru the basement walls at each end, then follow above the doors, or did you go along the frame? I am having trouble getting over the drive axle with my wires, so am looking for alternatives. Thanks in advance for your input.

brobox · 07-03-2016, 12:21 PM

Here is what I did.

Removed front turn signal, one screw, tapped into the green wire right side, yellow wire left side. That wire is both marker and turn signal.

On the P/S I went over the steps then along the frame. I already had rope lights run with wire ties on the frame of the basement compartments, so stringing the wire was easy for me. In most areas, the basement floor will push up enough to slide a wire tie in. If not a self drilling screw and a 1/4 inch wire hanger fixes that.

At the drive axles, turn and follow the wires and clamps for the one maker light that is already there and the docking light. Unplug the black wire for that marker and connected it to your new wire....that light is now both marker and turn signal. I changed all the factory markers to 10 LED Peterbuilt lights. Same screw pattern.

There are body bolts for the outer wheel skin, I strung the wires through there and add another light center between the two wheel, then one more in the back.

From there, drill a small in the front wall of the DEF compartment, follow the wire clamps in front, then on top of the battery box to the rear marker light. Unplug that black wire and connect it to the new wire.

Turn lights on, open a beer and admire your work.

Same thing on the D/S except go over the top of the fuse compartment. At the rear wheels, I pulled the rear plastic panel, that make the rear wheel well, back and tucked the wire behind that then back to the frame. Turn where the engine block heater plug is and connect the red clearance light. Turn lights on, open second beer.

Just put 1350 miles on with the new turn signals.......not one close call this time. No mistake by other drivers what your intentions are. I have never had so many 4 wheelers flash there lights for me to come over.....that was a shock and this was on a holiday weekend.

I still owe the THANKS to Dusty56 who passed this mod on to me.

gizmo123316 · 07-03-2016, 06:19 PM

Thanks chuck. You make it sound so easy.

brobox · 07-03-2016, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gizmo123316

Thanks chuck. You make it sound so easy.

It would be if we were 30 again.

Gary.Jones · 07-04-2016, 04:54 PM

This is discussed in detail in another recent thread. I did not want to run wires on the bottom of the coach (Chuck's strategy). Just didn't feel right to have that wiring exposed below the coach, although that would be much easier. As you will see if you see the other thread, I decided to wire my back three turn signal lights as turn signal lights only (no running lights). I bought them as turn signals and not as combination lights (2 wires rather than 3 wires). Now, I chose to tap the 3 new back lights (rear) into the stop lights which GasMan pointed out was the wrong place to do it. He wired his turn signals into a connector that exists on the front wall of his drive tire wheelwell. That is the way I am going to go. I found a local RV repair shop that will put the rig over a grease pit walkway and their mechanic will get up into the wheel well and add a third wire (explained in GasMan's post) and pick up the turn turn signals there. The fronts are wired as Chuck did. My lights are positioned thusly: fronts right below and slightly aft of the side cameras (on my classic 15). Then just below the docking light in front of the drive, between the drive and tag on that fiberglass piece between drive and tag, and the last one is a yellow turn signal light placed right below the red back running light on the end cap facing the side of the coach. It looked great before I discovered that picking up the voltage the way I did with the stop lights was the wrong idea. I think that it will be a very easy process to tap into the connector that GasMan discusses.

Gary

gizmo123316 · 07-05-2016, 09:50 AM

I have completed the right (passenger) side on my coach. I bought a 2 wire roll made for truck and trailer wiring, so the wires are in a secure plastic sleeve. I used the leveling jacks and raised the coach off the ground. Then I put safety blocks of wood under the front and drive axles to secure the coach in case the hydraulics failed. This gave me enough room to crawl under the coach (I'm kind of large) I connected to the front signal, which means the lights are markers when not flashing, then around the front wheel to the bottom of the coach. There is some tubing as part of the frame that runs the length of the basement, so simply tied the wiring to the tubing all the way to the drive axle, then to the front of the fender following the existing wiring. Then weaved the wires to the new side marker/ signal light. From there, back over the frame and followed the existing wires to the rear of the coach. Ran out of truck wire, so will do the drivers side after I pick up some more wire.
I used the Trux 15 LED lights that have a lot of chrome. I put one (amber) below the front docking light just rear of the front door, next one (amber) on the fender between the drive and the tag, and the last one right below the red marker at the rear. I wanted to leave the existing markers the same (not flashing)

Gasman 2 · 07-05-2016, 10:33 AM

Gary,
I send a reply to your email. Hope you got it.

Richard

brobox · 07-05-2016, 04:17 PM

Way to go Bob. It works and the way you want it. Good idea running the wire inside of the basement compartment outside frame.

I am at Camp Entegra and other Classic owners have sure taken notice of the additional lights.

Mwoodofd · 07-05-2016, 04:45 PM

Thanks Bob and Chuck, my lights should arrive Thursday, and I am going to start this while in New Mexico (8700 feet, and much cooler weather than Dallas).

Going to tap into the front signals as well, and run the wire back to the new markers (and turn) signal - ordered the "Super Bright LED" lights. I think I need 2 or 4 more (only ordered 6), if I am going put 3 by the real drive and tag axles and replace the others on the side? May just do the passenger side first while gone, and hope to get the mirror light hooked up to blink as well.

Mwoodofd · 07-06-2016, 06:33 AM

Bob, where did you get the roll of wire that you used - I want to see if I can find it before I leave town.

gizmo123316 · 07-06-2016, 08:59 AM

I got it at a truck shop that has a large parts store . It is called Fort Gary Industries and they have locations across Canada, but not in the US that I know of. Try a similar place where you live. The wires were made in the USA, and they are labelled Grote 82-5502 - 2 conductor PVC trailer cable. Grote is a light manufacturer for trucks, so you can maybe get the wire at your local auto parts store. I already used a 100 foot roll and just got another one, to make sure I don't run short. I used a lot more than I thought I would. I used blue water resistant connectors to tap into the the wires where ever I needed.

Mwoodofd · 07-06-2016, 12:34 PM

Thank you - I will see what I can find. - MW

ghaynes754 · 07-08-2016, 12:42 PM

Amazon has that wire. https://www.amazon.com/Grote-82-5502...te+82-5502+-+2

Mwoodofd · 07-08-2016, 03:15 PM

I had to leave too quick to order. Going to try some water sprinkler wire, 2 wire 14 Ga that has a protective cover - figure if you bury it in the ground, it will work for the side markers for the coach??

Home Depot, 100 ft is about $30.