Community Forums

Tall Tex · 07-31-2016, 09:21 AM

Since we bought our coach in February, we have spent over 100 nights in it and have put about 6,000 miles on it. So the sani-con hose has seen some use. Three days ago while pumping the grey tank it sprang a leak right where the hose comes out of the door. Next day a second leak a couple of coils into the compartment. Yesterday two more holes about three feet out of the door. CS is sending me a replacement, but getting less than 6 months of service from a $80 hose is disappointing. Anybody else have the same issue with the hose?

BigSkyBob · 07-31-2016, 09:27 AM

I've been using my Sani-Con hose for about 9 years and had to replace it once due to leaks. I used rescue tape on leaks for over a year and finally gave in and purchased a new hose. I don't understand your comment regarding a leak at "the door" as my discharge hose connects directly the pump outlet. Are you sure you have a genuine discharge hose as the Chinese have entered this market with interior products. Seems like premature failure to me.

Hayman · 07-31-2016, 10:25 AM

If you use the search function you'll find many pages of discussion on the NEW Turbo Macerator System and hose failures. Our hose failed and has been replaced as have others.

Victory Blue · 07-31-2016, 12:47 PM

Since our macerator pump failed about a week ago I've been emptying the tanks through the "old fashioned" sewer hose. Turns out the tanks empty just as fast this way as they do using the macerator without having to play around with different hoses. Once the pump is fixed it's going to remain unused unless I have to pump uphill.

Hayman · 07-31-2016, 01:10 PM

Bill, That's what we've realized also and as I stated in another thread each system to empty tanks has it's Pro's & Con's but we've found the old 3" to be much less problematic and as long as I remain agile enough to bend down and reach under it will be my primary method. Now when parked at our daughters house pumping up about 2' and 20' in distance the Turbo SaniCon is our friend !

Barmats · 07-31-2016, 09:59 PM

As the pump pressure flexes and lengthens the hose, the continual expansion eover the hose door threshold and its edges will wear away at the outer lining. In addition, if your hose is like mine and many others, the hose clamps they use are fairly long and the sharp edges of the "tails" stick out and up in the hose compartment. Stuffing the hose into there for traveling will result in the sharp edges wearing away at the hose as you drive.

After 8 months of moderate use, my hose spring a pinhole leak last week. Under pressure, the leak was significant. Fortunately, it happened as I was testing the grey tank first, and the leak was facing away from me. I ordered a replacement hose from Entegra, but had to take a trip to a local hardware store to get the correct fitting to the black ABS fitting in the hose compartment. I glued the new hose to the barb on the fitting and used 2 hose clamps. I cut the excess "tails" off, then taped them down with gorilla duct tape so nothing was sticking up or out. Then, ptfe tape on the fitting threads before screwing it into the ABS female coupler. I ran a few seconds of grey tank and had to torque it down tighter by hand until the leaks stopped.

I'd recommend carrying a roll of silicone self-sealing repair tape for the next leak. It serves as a temporary fix and is MUCH more effective than any other kind of tape, including gorilla duct tape.

brobox · 08-01-2016, 05:05 AM

For those that don't mind doing mods, Pat Bauer was kind enough to let me take a photo of his 2017 hose bay. On the 2017 they have done away with the up hill metal piece the hose has to go over. The hose now comes straight out of the compartment. In addition they added a marine inspection plate that can be unscrewed and the hose dropped out the bottom of the compartment.

I have not look closely at a 2016, but if the metal "hump" in the hose compartment can be removed, it would sure solve the "up hill" problem.

Barmats · 08-01-2016, 06:17 AM

That is interesting. It looks like the hose head just sits inside the compartment when stowed, and I would assume that it also fits through the opening when the round cover is removed. That's a much better layout than on the '16s.

There really isn't any way to remove the metal hump but it can be bypassed by doing the mod that Bhutting did in a different post.

Gary.Jones · 08-01-2016, 07:32 AM

I may be wrong because I dont own a coach with this "improvement", but this seems like one of those "iprovements" which is not really an "improvement" and also rarely needed by anyone, except under very unusual circumstances. Some times the old way, is the best way.

Gary

brobox · 08-01-2016, 07:46 AM

Gary, After seeing the new system and having hands on, I can see where it is much easier for a short stay to dump with the small hose than to drag the large slinky out and put it away. After seeing the 17, I see where some easy improvements can be made to the 16's. The post regarding lay flat irrigation hose instead of the $80. hose, I think would work great. After that post I looked at that hose at Tractor Supply. I would try that before spending $80. for a thin walled Sanicon hose.

Gestalt87 · 08-03-2016, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barmats

As the pump pressure flexes and lengthens the hose, the continual expansion eover the hose door threshold and its edges will wear away at the outer lining. In addition, if your hose is like mine and many others, the hose clamps they use are fairly long and the sharp edges of the "tails" stick out and up in the hose compartment. Stuffing the hose into there for traveling will result in the sharp edges wearing away at the hose as you drive.

After 8 months of moderate use, my hose spring a pinhole leak last week. Under pressure, the leak was significant. Fortunately, it happened as I was testing the grey tank first, and the leak was facing away from me. I ordered a replacement hose from Entegra, but had to take a trip to a local hardware store to get the correct fitting to the black ABS fitting in the hose compartment. I glued the new hose to the barb on the fitting and used 2 hose clamps. I cut the excess "tails" off, then taped them down with gorilla duct tape so nothing was sticking up or out. Then, ptfe tape on the fitting threads before screwing it into the ABS female coupler. I ran a few seconds of grey tank and had to torque it down tighter by hand until the leaks stopped.

I'd recommend carrying a roll of silicone self-sealing repair tape for the next leak. It serves as a temporary fix and is MUCH more effective than any other kind of tape, including gorilla duct tape.

Thanks for the advice on the silicone self sealing tape. Picked up a roll today and repaired a leak in hose which happened yesterday. Location of the leak is just outside the door when the hose is extended. Seems the hose clamp was too big and the excess metal tab cut the hose about 1/8 in. Fixed that problem also with a smaller hose clamp and a lot of rubber electrical tape.

Terry Kunkel
2016 Entrgra Anthem 44B
2011 Honda CRV

Barmats · 08-03-2016, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gestalt87

Thanks for the advice on the silicone self sealing tape. Picked up a roll today and repaired a leak in hose which happened yesterday. Location of the leak is just outside the door when the hose is extended. Seems the hose clamp was too big and the excess metal tab cut the hose about 1/8 in. Fixed that problem also with a smaller hose clamp and a lot of rubber electrical tape.

Terry Kunkel
2016 Entrgra Anthem 44B
2011 Honda CRV

The self-sealing tape is pretty good stuff for short-term leak repairs, but it can be tricky on this type of hose. And if you need to remove the tape afterwards, it has to be cut off as the layers will fuse into each other. It must be wrapped tightly enough so it adheres into the rib spaces between the metal coils of the hose, and this spacing varies depending on whether the hose is pressurized or not.

Gestalt87 · 08-03-2016, 11:12 AM

I actually pulled the hose to its extended length where the leak was present. I then had someone put one layer of tape around the damaged area so the tape would contact maximum rubber. I the apples a second wrapping an inch on both sides of the repair area. When I relaxed the hose, the tape took on the same look as the hose itself. If it woks until I can get another hose I will be satisfied. Again, thanks for the advise.

SunSet Rock · 08-31-2016, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tall Tex

Since we bought our coach in February, we have spent over 100 nights in it and have put about 6,000 miles on it. So the sani-con hose has seen some use. Three days ago while pumping the grey tank it sprang a leak right where the hose comes out of the door. Next day a second leak a couple of coils into the compartment. Yesterday two more holes about three feet out of the door. CS is sending me a replacement, but getting less than 6 months of service from a $80 hose is disappointing. Anybody else have the same issue with the hose?

Yes, same exact issue, even the same leak pattern. It's crazy something as necessary as the pump out hose being made of such thin junk materials. There needs to be a protective sheath made over the actual hose. We bought our coach new in December 2015, have 8000 miles and and 165 day+ in the coach. SaniCon needs to step it up on the quality of materials they use. When you pump out the hose dances all over the ground, in our RV Park in Florida the ground is brick Pavers, very abrasive on the hose.