Tell others about your modifications

[rorr1821]

I like to use the 3" hose when parked for extended periods. So I made 2 modifications. First I moved the 3" hose connection from under the wet bay so it is next to the factory installed macerator connection. I also removed the factory storage tube and replaced with 3ea 5" square vinyl tubes. The storage tube length is not ideal but they will hole 10 foot hose section.

The storage tubes for some reason uploaded so they are turned 90 deg counterclockwise.

[vsayler]

how hard was it to secure the backs of those square vinyl tubes? Where did you get them?
thanks
Van Sayler

[Winemaker2]

5" x 8 ft fence post sleeves & covers avail at Home Depot.
I just installed one just ahead of rear wheels. I got some 24" zip ties and snugged up to the frame & short vertical angle then added steel cable & 2 cable connectors for security.
Screwed the cover on one end put a pair of small snap type hasps on the other end.
Great for folding/collapsable ladder storage

[Cqyqte]

We need to haul 2 bikes on our trips, but like everyone's travel trailer the bumper is barely capable of carrying a wet poop pipe. Our Keystone has reinforced rectangular tube welded to its I-beam frame so I made use of those to design an under slung hitch, although it is only going to support 150lbs maximum it's still built to support twice that weight.

[Aussies]

Originally Posted by Winemaker2

5" x 8 ft fence post sleeves & covers avail at Home Depot.
I just installed one just ahead of rear wheels. I got some 24" zip ties and snugged up to the frame & short vertical angle then added steel cable & 2 cable connectors for security.
Screwed the cover on one end put a pair of small snap type hasps on the other end.
Great for folding/collapsable ladder storage

Can you post a picture please?

[Winemaker2]

I'm away from home and MH currently. Will try to remember when i return and post a couple of pics.

[Aussies]

Thanks.

[rorr1821]

I have received request for a material list so here it is:

Materiel List

2ea 3” ABS street elbow item 22774 (All ABS ordered from Lowes)
1ea 3” ABS 90 deg elbow item 22770
1ea 3” ABS straight pipe approximately item 256095
1ea 3” ABS female adapter fitting item 22767
1ea Valterra part T1006 3” flanged valve hub (available from e-trailer and other places on internet)
1ea Valterra part T1029-4 3” bayonet to male thread
1ea Can ABS cement
1ea Black silicone tube sealant

1ea Cam and groove x male part B300-PP (www.camlock-fittings.com)
1ea Cam and groove plug DP300-PP (used to plug drain when not in use)
1ea Cam and groove male to female thread A300-pp

1ea 4” U-bolt (local purchase, may be Lowes) I prefer Lowes over Home Depot because I use Military discount. Home Depot in my area selectively discount items and with not discount internet orders like Lowes.
1ea short pieces aluminum angle
2ea Aluminum sheet approximately 12” square

Drain you tanks and close the valves.

Remove all piping from the 3”valve at the macerator housing. Discard all.
Take the Valterra part T1006 attach to 3” valve with screws holding original flange which hwas glued to the parts you previously removed. Be sure to place the rubber gasket in the proper position and tighten. Do not over tighten. This will be a little messy depending on how well you drained your tanks so have plenty of rags on hand.

Now come the tricky part. You want to dry fit the parts which can be difficult because the ends have very close tolerance. If I were doing it again I would try lubricating the ends with concentrated dish soap, dry fit, mark, and then wash soap off before gluing. You will build the connection in stages so the angle of each elbow is critical.

Attach the 90 deg fitting to the valve flange hub you previously installed, attach the 2 street elbows to conform to the angle toward bottom of the wet bay. You will most likely need to enlarge the hole in the bottom of the wet bay. Use the flat aluminum and sealant to seal the hole after you glue connections. The aluminum sheets needs to be positioned but not attached to the wet bay floor before you glue the elbows otherwise you will need to cut it in half so it fits around the fitting.

Warning: You only get one shot at gluing these fittings. The glue will set up vary vary fast. You cannot separate the fitting once glued. If you do not seat the fitting or get the wrong angle you will have to start over with new fittings. I know this from experience.

Once you have the last street elbow glued it should be pointing toward the side of the coach. You will need to screw together with thread sealant the cam and groove part B300-pp and ABS adapter fitting. Then hold these two joined parts and position them so they extend even with the bay doors closed. You should see a slight gap between the previously glued street elbow and the edge of the ABS adapter fitting with the cam and groove part. You will need to cut a piece of ABS pipe to glue these two parts together. Warning : Take note of the position of the cam and groove release tabs. They need to be on each side. Also you may want to dry fit these parts and fabricate the U-bolt attachment before you glue these parts. The U-bolt needs to be sized so it fits around the cam and groove part and ABS fitting as snug as possible but not tight. Do not over tighten the ends of the U-bolt to the bottom of the bay support.

You will need to make 3” RV hose adapter using Valterra T1029-4 and cam and groove part A300-pp. An alternate method is to replace the RV hose end with a permanent cam and groove adapter for 3” hose.

Disclaimer: I did this mod several months ago so I am recalling this from memory and rough notes but I believe it to be accurate.

[rorr1821]

Originally Posted by vsayler

how hard was it to secure the backs of those square vinyl tubes? Where did you get them?
thanks
Van Sayler

I removed the plastic sheet covering the area and the factory storage tube.
I bought the 8 foot 5" square vinyl post and caps from Lowes. They did not carry them in the store so I ordered them from internet and had them shipped to the store for pickup. I build hangers across the back about 2/3 in from the front. Also put hanger across the front. I put some small bolts through the bottom of tubes attaching to the cross members of the hangers. The bolts need to be near the outside edges of the tubes so they do on interfere with pushing the sewer hose in the tubes. You need long arms to get into the tubes to put in the small bolts. I used 1" aluminum angle. The back of the square tube butt up to the fuel tank. That is why you can only make the tubes about 31" long. This is not an optimum length but you can store 10" sections in each tube.

[kwoods]

We required more kitchen storage so the wife asked if I could put some kind of rail around the counter step up. She bought SS handle pulls that match the drawer pulls and I installed them with screws from the bottom just behind the trim lights.

[Matt D]

Kent, that is a very slick mod.

I'm trying to figure out how you fastened those down. I read you used screws behind the trim lights, but did you have room for a 90 degree drive?

Thanks,

-Matt

[Electra 225]

That's a great idea kwoods, and looks great too.

My question echoes Matt's. If the screws insert from bottom up, how did you do it? There's only about an inch of space there. Hardly room for the screw, let alone the screwdriver. Ready to learn something here. [emoji1]

Best regards,
W.D.

[kwoods]

I used a 2" long philips bit with my fingertips, then used a small crescent wrench on the bit to finish tightening. I have several more mods to share, that one took a few hours to post as it was my second ever post and first with photos. I'll try to get more up today.

[kwoods]

We removed a couch and made room for a desk, as importantly the litter box.
Also put in a TV lift so we could watch TV head on instead of looking to the front of the coach above the windshield.